Towing Electric Kit Install

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LR4Dave

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If you don't program the car to know the electrics are installed you lose the disabling of the backup sensors when a trailer is attached (constantly beeps in reverse w/o manual disable with button), and the Tow Assist feature is missing if you have the surround cameras.

This was the case on my 2010 where I installed the wiring myself (30 mins). Dealer "programmed" to recognize the harness for $90

Dave.
 

jaguardoc504

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You only need to program the vehicle when installing a brake control. Even on the 2015 models. The harnesses essential "splices" into the left rear tail light. It installed in about 30 minutes. Pretty easy to do with basic hand tools
 

overblown

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I have a 2015 and just installed this harness last weekend. It's very easy and takes no time at all. I can confirm that no trip to the dealer is required for just your trailer lights to work. My tips are, the tail light has only two screws the resistance that you feel after removing them are two plastic snap joints. It will take a firm tug to pop them out but make sure you are pulling straight back, not to the sides. You don't want them cracking. Just firm tug straight back with one hand on each side of the light.

Also, when removing the two harnesses that are inside the truck, push up on them until they slide off of the fir tree fastener. Then take a set of pliers and pull the fastener out of the bracket. The reason for this is the plastic harness itself can crack if too much pressure is applied. This way, you don't have to worry about it.

And one more thing, I didn't remove the spare tire and still had plenty of room to run the harness. A big time saver. I don't have a full size spare though so if you do, you'll probably have to. Have fun and be safe out there!
 

cperez

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I will add my install notes to this thread FWIW. I was using the Atlantic British kit that was on sale for $99 (reg. $117).

The single biggest hassle I encountered was with the vehicle harnesses located in the driver's side cargo area access panel (the ones with the dummy connectors). Fortunately I had read overblown's advice about sliding these plugs off of their fir tree attachment points. Even with this advance knowledge, the job was tough for me due to tight access in that area. The two connectors are slightly offset with one being a little higher than the other. That higher one was a handful because there was no easy way to depress the spring clip to free it from its slider. I finally separated the plug from its dummy connector, then went back to remove the fir tree attachment point.

The AB wiring came with the grounding pigtail taped tightly to the main cable body. Only the eyelet was exposed. This created a super narrow tolerance for placing and bending the thick and stubborn main cable in the tight quarters described above. I carefully slit the electrical tape to free up a longer section of grounding cable and then retaped around that area. This gave me some play to work with which helped a lot. I also decided not to try to attach the connectors to the original brackets. By this point I had had my fill and the stiff cable was nestled tightly in the space so I wasn't concerned about shifting, crimping, or rubbing against anything. I will monitor it over time.

Re the section of cable that terminates at the bumper-- as the video warns, it takes a bit of finagling but it fits the cutout to the left of the recovery point. On the inside of the bumper, there is a hole that will accommodate a fir tree attachment point connected to the cable. This secures the cable where it exits from behind the plug interface. At the other end of that section (the end that plugs in behind the tail light), there is also a fir tree connector. I was not able to locate the attachment point for that one. I routed this section of cable over the top of the swinging weights in that area. This put the cable in the general area of the heat shield around the exhaust pipe but I didn't see any alternative given the fixed length of the cable and the need to reach the tail light area with it. This is another item that I will monitor. In addition to heat, that area will definitely get wet. Fortunately the connectors have sturdy flex gaskets that seemed highly water resistant if not fully waterproof.

FYI, I have a full-size spare and did not remove or even lower it for this install. I would have if necessary but I saw no value or improved access that would have resulted.

My hat is off to those who managed to install this in 20-30 minutes. Took me quite a bit longer than that but I am unapologetically methodical with stuff like this and like to check and re-check my work at each step. Next step: installation of new Rhino hitch.
 

jackkyxu

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I will add my install notes to this thread FWIW. I was using the Atlantic British kit that was on sale for $99 (reg. $117).

The single biggest hassle I encountered was with the vehicle harnesses located in the driver's side cargo area access panel (the ones with the dummy connectors). Fortunately I had read overblown's advice about sliding these plugs off of their fir tree attachment points. Even with this advance knowledge, the job was tough for me due to tight access in that area. The two connectors are slightly offset with one being a little higher than the other. That higher one was a handful because there was no easy way to depress the spring clip to free it from its slider. I finally separated the plug from its dummy connector, then went back to remove the fir tree attachment point.

The AB wiring came with the grounding pigtail taped tightly to the main cable body. Only the eyelet was exposed. This created a super narrow tolerance for placing and bending the thick and stubborn main cable in the tight quarters described above. I carefully slit the electrical tape to free up a longer section of grounding cable and then retaped around that area. This gave me some play to work with which helped a lot. I also decided not to try to attach the connectors to the original brackets. By this point I had had my fill and the stiff cable was nestled tightly in the space so I wasn't concerned about shifting, crimping, or rubbing against anything. I will monitor it over time.

Re the section of cable that terminates at the bumper-- as the video warns, it takes a bit of finagling but it fits the cutout to the left of the recovery point. On the inside of the bumper, there is a hole that will accommodate a fir tree attachment point connected to the cable. This secures the cable where it exits from behind the plug interface. At the other end of that section (the end that plugs in behind the tail light), there is also a fir tree connector. I was not able to locate the attachment point for that one. I routed this section of cable over the top of the swinging weights in that area. This put the cable in the general area of the heat shield around the exhaust pipe but I didn't see any alternative given the fixed length of the cable and the need to reach the tail light area with it. This is another item that I will monitor. In addition to heat, that area will definitely get wet. Fortunately the connectors have sturdy flex gaskets that seemed highly water resistant if not fully waterproof.

FYI, I have a full-size spare and did not remove or even lower it for this install. I would have if necessary but I saw no value or improved access that would have resulted.

My hat is off to those who managed to install this in 20-30 minutes. Took me quite a bit longer than that but I am unapologetically methodical with stuff like this and like to check and re-check my work at each step. Next step: installation of new Rhino hitch.

second this for the fir tree issue

I do have a full size spare, but I do not see any advantage removing it for this installation.

I bought the original kit which comes with a instruction manual. On the manual the cable running along with the rear bumper has three fur tree screws.

I was able to finish the left one which is closest to the towing power connector, but I was not able to search the other two, since there is little room for my hand to search.

The room is basically between the bumper and a large but swaying piece of metal.

any experience about the two fur tree?

Thanks
 

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