Wiring question

I've been having intermittent problems with my wife's 2011 LR4 being dead when she goes out first thing in the morning to start it up.

I had the battery and alternator tested in the vehicle 3 times. Battery tests fine each time, alternator tested fine twice and finally on the 3rd time it tested as "bad voltage regulator".

I removed the battery and alternator to have each bench tested isolating the components. Battery tested fine again and Autozone couldn't test the alternator.

When I pulled the battery out there was a 2 conductor wire, with what appears to be a factory connector on it, tucked under the battery not connected to anything. Wire is green/red stripe and black.

Any thoughts on what this might go to?

Thanks


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It's the connector for a battery cutoff relay designed to prevent the battery from discharging during transportation of the vehicle to its final destination from the UK, or while the car is sitting unsold on the dealer's lot. The transit relay is unplugged and discarded during PDI. So, the connector doesn't go anywhere after the vehicle is sold and delivered to the customer.

The one on my LR4 is also hanging loose in the battery compartment near the positive terminal, although its contacts are protected by a plastic cap which may very well have fallen off or been forgotten on yours - no big deal because the connector is useless after delivery anyway, with or without blanking cap. Don't worry about it and just leave it alone.

Appreciate it!


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I have had a similar issue. End result was to replace the battery and now I have no issues.
You have to remember when you "wake" the vehicle up you have anywhere from 20-30 computer modules all waking at the same time. The batteries in the LR4 seems to reach a point where it sits on the edge of failure. Without the full load of the computers, it will always test good. A simple load test is not enough to vet the validity of the battery on most modern vehicles, with advanced computers.

I replaced the battery today with a Sears Diehard Advance Gold AGM (group 49). Hopefully that does the trick! Wife is about ready to trade it in for a minivan [emoji15]. I may have replaced the alternator prematurely, but I figure it's cheaper than a couple hours diagnostics at the dealer.

Thanks for the feedback on the forums! This was my first posting and your feedback was helpful.


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We had a issue with not starting. Doors opened lights lite. Starter would not turn over. Problem has not happened in months. I think issue was not pressing hard enough on Brake pedal. If vacuums happened to leak down it takes a lot of pressure on brake to engage switch to allow starter to turn over. Sometimes the most obvious is the issue. Sorry about the alternator. I always look for 14.2 volts(something over 14) across battery with engine running.

I just replaced my alternator (55K miles), and the battery prior to the alternator with the Sears AGM 49. A week later I'm getting a periodic idiot light of low voltage. Dealer tested the alternator and says it's fine, the battery could have a dead cell or uncharged cell. Since Sears near me is reluctant to remove my battery (*** it's a 10mm and 8mm socket, not rocket science) I deep cycle charge it for 3 hours in my garage. Put it back in and same ****. Going back to Sears and have them bench test it. Never thought about a voltage regulator issue though.


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amneme1 said:

I just replaced my alternator (55K miles), and the battery prior to the alternator with the Sears AGM 49. A week later I'm getting a periodic idiot light of low voltage. Dealer tested the alternator and says it's fine, the battery could have a dead cell or uncharged cell. Since Sears near me is reluctant to remove my battery (*** it's a 10mm and 8mm socket, not rocket science) I deep cycle charge it for 3 hours in my garage. Put it back in and same ****. Going back to Sears and have them bench test it. Never thought about a voltage regulator issue though.


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Did you have the battery management system reset when the battery was replaced? I know you said you brought it to the dealer, but worth asking.
LR are picky about this stuff...

I asked and they replied it doesn't need it. I'm at Sears now and have to remove the battery myself in 23 F snow storm since the goons here aren't capable of using an 8mm and 10mm socket. I'm going to have them test it. If it tests fine, back to the stealership I go. Good advice as I will use it when or if I need to go there.


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amneme1 said:

I asked and they replied it doesn't need it. I'm at Sears now and have to remove the battery myself in 23 F snow storm since the goons here aren't capable of using an 8mm and 10mm socket. I'm going to have them test it. If it tests fine, back to the stealership I go. Good advice as I will use it when or if I need to go there.


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Click to expand...

I was told by two different dealerships, as I couldn't believe I had to pay an additional $100 for programming on top of the battery and replacement charge. it HAS to be done or you will have issues with battery life, and false errors (could be your problem).
I am pretty sure Sears is not an expert in LR, and anything they tell you should be taken with a grain of salt.

Stay warm, the snow is on it's way to me (Maine)