Yet another EAS Fiasco

So I changed my air compressor and replaced it with a brand new factory sealed AMK and still the rear right strut goes down after some time, yes it now goes down slower but still noticable within less than 2 hours. *** is going on?? dealer said it was the compressor, indies said it was the compressor, they checked the air lines and the valves (or so they all said), I changed the ******* compressor and still have the issue !! I am genuinely desperate now, it's been ages since the last time that rubbish suspension worked properly


Edit: Air strut is new in case you were wondering...

I suspect failing hight sensor or pinhole in air strut supply line.

height sensor usually throws a big fat red fault (cross-articulation variety) and results in truck being on bumpstops.

Bearish, I know you've been chasing this leak for a long time, but can you please remind me of what you've done and what you've replaced so far? Do you have any measurements? If not, can you take some measurements of the drop (and or rise) on each corner overnight with the fuses pulled?

There is a valve between the two rear shocks and a valve between each shock and the main system. So, we really need to determine where you are leaking air from (i.e. which side of the valve) and then narrow it down to a specific area.

If we know everything you've replaced, we can certainly (hopefully) rule those things out.

Also, I don't recall now, but do you happen to own a diagnostic tool? Anything that can take measurements from the main system pressure sensor?

BTW, if you've replaced the rear valve block (which I think you may have done?) and have replaced the rear shock AND you still measure a drop with the fuses pulled (or battery disconnected), then the only conceivable leak is in the air line from the rear valve block to the strut.

cmb6s said:

Bearish, I know you've been chasing this leak for a long time, but can you please remind me of what you've done and what you've replaced so far? Do you have any measurements? If not, can you take some measurements of the drop (and or rise) on each corner overnight with the fuses pulled?

Click to expand...

A long time indeed cmb6s. I've replaced front left and rear right air struts, and the compressor which has literally been used only for one day, today. All $$££ (aided by my parents who now feel proper HATE for Land Rover) out of my pocket.


Anyhow, so this is what happened today:
The only code read c112f-72 actuator stuck open. It ONLY happens after starting the vehicle IF I drive it over some speed bumps or irregular road (being in mexico, the freaking land of the speed bumps, I have to pass like 12 of these before hitting the main avenue). If however I turn the vehicle on and wait for it to inflate fully the fault won't appear anymore. Brand new compressor runs for almost 3 minutes or more when I turn the vehicle on, stopping several times but reengaging after a 2 second pause or so, as if it was measuring either height or pressure. 2nd Edit: Yes, it was reprogrammed to run with the AMK.

As I write this, the LR3 has been parked for almost 4 hours and the rear has lowered noticeably, I think it'll be flat by the morning and I'll have to leave it in the shop yet again... so probably a leaking valve. **** dealer and indie mechanic told me that was not the issue. Of course... it's more profitable to first change the compressor and then the valve. FUKC them

Where's the guy who told me I was crazy for calling them what they are? absolute ****.

Edit: regarding the measurements, I haven't measured it but it is quite noticeable within a couple of hours, before swapping the compressor it only took about half an hour for the right rear to be as low as possible. Today it will take about I'm guessing 6-7 hours for it to get all the way down to the bump stops...

When you say it drop within 6-7 hours, are you saying that it drops that much if you leave it parked normally or it drops that much after you've pulled the fuses.

It's very important that you pull fuse 26E (I'm pretty sure that's the correct one) under the hood before you diagnose any height drops. The reason for this is because the suspension ECU is still active when the car is turned off. That means that the car wakes up and attempt to self-level every so often. During it's self leveling, the car will open and close the reservoir valves, thus allowing pressure to equalize between various chambers. By pulling the fuse, you're preventing this, thus isolating the problem (hopefully) to a particular area.

Measurements with the fuse pulled will also help because we really want to see how the other corners are reacting as well. When you do measure height, make sure it's from the center of each wheel (the center of the wheel cap) to the bottom of the wheel arch (not from the ground to the wheel arch).

Also, just to verify, you have now replaced:
1. Front Left Shock
2. Rear Right Shock
3. Compressor w/updated software

Correct?

cmb6s. Good info. Mine is settling over a few days time as it sits by the street, waiting to be sold Maybe it's just ****** at me. Good tip on the fuse thing, I was wondering if it was slowly adjusting over the days. So that's a easy place to start.
Also, why from the center cap to the wheel arch? The center cap to the ground is a fixed distance (unless the tire is leaking too). Just curious.

True, I suppose if you are just measuring difference at each wheel, then it may not matter as much. When doing a calibration though, it's important to do center of wheel to arch so that each individual tire pressure is not factored into the equation.

Trolling for info here,

If there was a hole in the line, wouldn't this manifest only when the valves are open?

I would assume once the truck is off and settled you could cut the lines and it wouldn't do anything untoward?