Full size Spare - What will fit in the OEM space

jwest said:

You can make it even quicker by using a hand drill or impact driver. Then it's like "zip dee doo done! "

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That could be trouble. I wouldn't use a power tool with that winch, it's so delicate. Heard lots of stories of the lead getting tangled and the winch jamming and breaking after careless use of a power tool to make the job easier/faster. Land Rover has actually gone through the pain of redesigning the winch on 2013s and later, to remove the power tool "friendly" end of the winch and force you to use the supplied hook extension instead. See below, first couple of photos are of the new and "improved" OEM winch, the following ones are of an aftermarket unit that looks like the "old" OEM: http://www.bputah.com/LR3/Land_Range_Rover_Sport_LR3_LR4_Spare_Tire_Lift_Winch_LR024145.html

Well I didn't mean at blisteringly fast twist, just way easier than the hand crank. I'd spray some lithium grease or something like used on a bike chain up under there to keep the cable and motion nice and free flowing.

No matter what they redesigned, it's still one of the stupidest designs I've ever seen on a vehicle to require moving the seats to access a spare tire that's mounted outside. Might as well be in the floor like a Range Rover.
Anyway, glad they put it outside so I'd have that huge space empty for my 2nd fuel tank

Oh, and extra STUPID to make the interface a non standard fitting so that if you loose the proprietary tool, you're F'd! Now you have to be sure you bring along their cheap stamped steel junk? Totally lame.

Some owners (not this one) have installed a 2-3" extension, permanently attached to the winch and popping up between the seats, so that they can operate the winch without lifting the 3rd row seatbacks first.

jwest said:

Oh, and extra STUPID to make the interface a non standard fitting so that if you loose the proprietary tool, you're F'd! Now you have to be sure you bring along their cheap stamped steel junk? Totally lame.

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I completely agree. Luckily, my early build 2013 still came with the old hex design, but they changed it shortly thereafter. They probably would have left the interface alone, were it not for some owners using power tools instead of good old fashioned hand cranking, and then ******** about the winch breaking.

I chose to lop off about a ¾" wedge of the steel bracket on both sides which was digging into the tire tread. This helped a ton. I can keep the tire at 25 psi and carry a pump. It seems like if that bracket was re worked, one could put more rubber up there. I mean we all cut and weld things anyways right? What's a tie rod bracket for anyways?

Not sure I'd recommend this to others but its what I did. I doubt the little bit of metal that was removed compromises integrity of the bracket.

I'm running the Compos and BFG 265 65 18.

Waterndirt said:

I chose to lop off about a ¾" wedge of the steel bracket on both sides which was digging into the tire tread. This helped a ton. I can keep the tire at 25 psi and carry a pump. It seems like if that bracket was re worked, one could put more rubber up there. I mean we all cut and weld things anyways right? What's a tie rod bracket for anyways?

Not sure I'd recommend this to others but its what I did. I doubt the little bit of metal that was removed compromises integrity of the bracket.

I'm running the Compos and BFG 265 65 18.

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That size tire doesn't usually require any tricks though.

I just didn't feel comfortable keeping tire at 15 psi and risk loosing a bead. Keeping it at a higher psi makes me feel much better and it still comes down with ease.

Waterndirt said:

I just didn't feel comfortable keeping tire at 15 psi and risk loosing a bead. Keeping it at a higher psi makes me feel much better and it still comes down with ease.

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Yes, I meant that size did not require any deflation in my experience, just removal of the fiberglass shield.

I took a piece of nylon hex stock and drilled and ground the shape of the drive into the hex stock. I can now use a ratchet to raise and lower the spare tire. Much easier than removing the jack wrench. Seems to work great.

Waterndirt said:

I chose to lop off about a ¾" wedge of the steel bracket on both sides which was digging into the tire tread. This helped a ton. I can keep the tire at 25 psi and carry a pump. It seems like if that bracket was re worked, one could put more rubber up there. I mean we all cut and weld things anyways right? What's a tie rod bracket for anyways?

Not sure I'd recommend this to others but its what I did. I doubt the little bit of metal that was removed compromises integrity of the bracket.

I'm running the Compos and BFG 265 65 18.

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Removing a heat shield should be the only things you should do to fit BFG 265/65/R18 under a truck. If the spare is brand new it will be a tight fit. I deflate my spare to 7-8 PSI. and then have no problems winching it all the way up. It will not go up by itself like OE full size spare , but you will have to tilt it so the front part of the wheel/ tire is up first and then the back. It may need a little kick so it is all the way up.
I keep my spare under the truck when on pavement. I would never go off roading with my spare under. Getting it out from there when out in the boonies would be pain in the a$$. I always toss my spare into my cargo area and place factory full size spare under just as a protection.
BTW, this topic was discussed on the forum multiple times.