Help: rear brake disc removal woes

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er1c

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Only one wheel was off of the ground. I'll give it a go with both wheels suspended, when the rain lets up. Thanks.
 

er1c

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Also you don't need to remove the plastic cover to adjust the epb.

When only adjusting the EPB, without taking the rotors off, isn't that the whole purpose of the hole? The tiny black plastic cover that you pop out, is how you access the tension adjuster. This is what Bodsy's brake bible says... How else would you access the tension adjuster without first removing the plastic hole cover?
 

ryan-in-oregon

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When only adjusting the EPB, without taking the rotors off, isn't that the whole purpose of the hole? The tiny black plastic cover that you pop out, is how you access the tension adjuster. This is what Bodsy's brake bible says... How else would you access the tension adjuster without first removing the plastic hole cover?

To adjust the brake you DO need to remove the cover. Hopefully when you get both rears off the ground you will be able to get the disc to rotate...
 

Trynian

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Yes you do need to remove the little plastic cover to get to the adjuster. Also the adjuster is on the top on the passenger side and on the bottom on the driver side.
 

er1c

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I started yesterday working on replacing the parking brake shoes. I started with the left-side first... as aforementioned the right side was giving me troubles.

Everything was going nice-and-smooth, up until the point that I had to connect the return spring on the new shoes. I've been struggling for over 4 hours so far. With the wind-chill it's 15-degrees outside right now, and I'm about half frozen to death.

I've tried every method possible to attach the return spring to the primary shoe. I've tried attaching it while the primary shoe was off, and then trying to pull the shoe down. I've tried pulling the spring over, when both shoes are mounted. I've tried everything all to no avail.

I'm in desperate need of help right now, as the temperature is going to be dropping into the single-digits in a matter of 2-hours. Not to mention, too, it'll be getting dark by 5pm.

I've attached pictures. (It's the left-side. The "return spring" is the spring at the top, which connects both shoes together.)

pb_shoes_2.jpg

pb_shoes_1.jpg
 

ryan-in-oregon

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Its been awhile since I had mine apart however I "think" I put the return spring on first and then rolled the shoes on. In fact I think it is the only way to seat it in place. It is a PITA but it should go that way...
 

Trynian

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Do you have a spring spreader tool for doing drum brakes? Having the correct tools can make life much easier.
 

stmcknig

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Despite a previous adjustment that stopped the EPB scream, the LR3 locked up the other day in a hotel parking lot. Couldn't release the brake shoes on the park brake at all, even with the cable release after pulling the fuse out of the EPB to save it killing itself (hopefully). I had the Rover dolly towed back to my house (fortunately only a couple of miles) and my neighbour and I then spent almost five hours trying and eventually succeeding to get the rear seized disks off. Ended up using a combination of WD40 and brake cleaner squirted into every available hole in the drum to try to get the shoes to release and plenty of Thor like hammer blows and eventually some large pry bars into the disk vents. I wasn't worried about wrecking them as I had at that point got new shoes, pads and disks for the rear. I really wonder what a dealer does if they get to that point - cut the disks off the axle ?

I suspect that Midas (or whomever) who did the last brake service with the previous owners hadn't got a clue about LR's parking brake so my adjustment helped in the short term but couldn't stave off the inevitable jamming. I also found that the dust cap for the adjuster hole on one side was missing so maybe it let in stuff. Also in Texas that day it was 105F so maybe some nasty thermal expansion played a part.

As Ryan says, with new shoes in place and the adjuster wound all the way in, the disks slip off pretty easily. I've go the new shoes in place now but so far have not got round to the adjustment - shoes are still wound all the way in and the fuse is still missing from the EPB. I'm guessing from reading the Brake Bible and around here that I should get the adjustment figured out first before replacing the fuse and seeing if my actuator survived ?

There seem to be three command modes for the EPB motor - latch, mount and unjam - anybody care to elaborate on those; I presume that Bodsys "service" mode is the same as "mount" - yeah or nay ?

I'm not looking forward to trying the bedding in procedure of ten stops with the park brake in case I end up with seized drums again...is that part absolutely necessary with new shoes and anybody got any tips ? Do you just get the speed up to about 25mph, come off the gas then apply the EPB until you stop under the EPB alone or do you help it with the regular brakes too ?
 

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