LR Discovery I purchase

Without searching I have happened upon a 1996 LR Discovery for sale and in need of some TLC and perhaps a little more than casual repair. It is a cloth seat Disco I with manual transmission. Not worth much on the Edmunds/KBB sites.

The owner appears to have attempted to keep this vehicle in driveable condition through the support of a professional independent repair shop. The truck has 3 year old, 5k miles, top of the line Michelin tires , 3 month old battery, replaced with OEM parts the brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder, steering damper and spark plugs. Power steering hoses and oil pan gaskets have been replaced to resolve leaks. Manual transmission that has had the transmission, transfer case and rear differential oil changed.

Known remaining issues are the front shocks which are described as failed and brake pads and rotors. The right front brake rotor shows that the brake pad has worn to the point of encountering metal-to-metal contact indicating that the caliper has seized.

There is no documentation on coolant service but the documentation would indicate that nothing had been done in 10 years, 10k miles. At this point on a 20 year old truck I would replace all the coolant hoses, the water pump and thermostat with a good flush of the entire system.

Estimate of above recommended services at the indy is over $1700. That is just about what the vehicle is worth.

Comments on other potential issues to be considered would be appreciated.

All of that work can be done at home with some basic tools (maybe have to buy one or two items) for around $500

Going to pick up the truck tomorrow if is close to how it is represented.

Local indy says that the water pump is 'leaking'. No indication of overheating. I find Land Rover WP's on the WWW from $32 to $320. Some with a 10 year warranty. Yeah, I know about 'out of sight warranties'. Even the low priced spread says new. How bad can they be?

Is there a brand to stay away from or chose?

Well, I picked it up but between a coolant leak, non functional shocks and a brake pad that doesn't exist anymore it was not up for driving home.

Few cosmetic issues like rubber gaskets around windows but found no rust and everything seems to work electrically. It is a one owner Atlanta car that has never been off pavement.







Got a list of parts to order. Fair warning, let me know what to buy, or not to buy, in shocks, pads, rotors and water pumps or you will have to listen to me complain about the quality.

Anyone vote against URO water pumps?

My thought is call Nathan in my Signature, he will make sure you not only get the best parts, but at a fair price. Remember water pump only needs 22 pounds of torque, any more and you will be flooding the engine with water as you will break the seal.

Looks nice TestPoint
Congrats!

Here come the questions . . .

Slowly got all the parts in for rotor/brake replacement.

Now the questions:

What is the torque on the inside the rotor to hub bolts? Blue LocTite?

What is the torque on the axle nut? Tightening it like I have always done is not pulling up the snap ring groove like I found it. Headed to Tractor Supply for what appears to be a 52mm socket.

What is the torque on the axle spline cover to hub? I have grease all over them. Do they need to be cleaned and blue LT applied?

What about the lug studs . . . dry or anti seize?

I am sure there will be more questions.

Download the RAVE manual if you haven't already, it has 90% of the answers in it... Loc tite is good for most stuff but I wouldn't put it on the lug studs, I leave them clean and dry.

I found the RAVE manual pretty quick. Most cars past a few years have such manuals available on-line for free. This is a big one, over 800 pages and half a Gig of storage.

Pulled the rear brake pads yesterday and while only half worn had scored the rotors pretty bad.

This truck has seen only 5k miles on it in the last 10 years and I am sure that the rotors rusted and the pads wiped it off only to do that over and over again. Pads in hand, rotors on order. Now to read up on how to remove them. Fronts rotor/hub a little strange but not difficult.

Got a fuel filter also at this is probably the 20 year old original. Not too bad to get to with the wheel off.

Rear suspension bushings in poor shape but I am going to get it back in service before coming back for that fun.

It should have all new shocks and brake system parts by the end of the week. Then there is the leaking water pump for entertainment.

Old car guys:

I have never had to remove the rear axles in any car to remove the rotors . . . . up to now.

Then the caliper bolts are rusted, very rusted. What is it with British steel? It all wants to wants to return to ferric oxide from whence it came. Brit ferric oxide must have been of very poor quality to begin with.

Using a 13mm 12 point socket I attempted to remove the Torx caliper bolts. Got them broken loose but they were so corroded that they finally slipped. I cannot imagine how to get those bolts out other than unscrewing them. Soaked with PB Blaster and retired to eat a few marinated olives.

Yeah, I know, I am working on a 20 year old car . . . but somethings should go right.