Suspension fault error code? Screenshot

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dthomp87

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Does anybody know anything about this code? I get this almost everytimg I drive. Red fault suspension lowers. Sometimes goes away quick on its own, others i have to reset. Is this software related?

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Houm_WA

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Yes.

You have an issue with your EAS calibration. This could be due to a bad sensor, a lost calibration, a severed wire harness...or a combination of these things.

It's not terribly hard to fix. I'd even say it's a DIY job if you have the time and an IIDTool (or equivalent). Sensors aren't all that expensive, it's figuring out which one is toasted that may be tough. Do you have the 4x4 Info screen on your LR3?
 

dthomp87

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I do have the GAP tool. I probably messed it up myself as I did quite abit of adjustments when I first got the tool (around the time the problem started occurring) I modified the height then adjusted a corner that was quite off. Good news is I actually have a set of 4 new height sensors already.

Bad news is the truck wouldn't even start this morning so I need to figure that out first. The truck cranks but wont fire. I'm not hearing the fuel pump when in on mode, How loud should it be? I checked the relay and it didn't seem to be working properly, but I put another relay in there (switched with one of the others) and it still didn't actuate, I found this odd. I jumped the relay with a wire and still no fuel pump action. So I'm at a loss because the relay isn't triggering and it doesn't work when jumped. I checked the fuses and reset the software. I'm assuming it could just be the pump went out, but the part with the relay confuses me. I figure that perhaps it could be a faulty wire in the harness somewhere. another possibility is the Fan clutch was acting strange (would engage when it shouldn't be) Ive read also that this could cause the ECU to find an error at startup and keep the vehicle to start.


I'm not quite sure how to proceed at the moment.
 

Trynian

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I had this one once upon a time. All sensors and wiring were good so as a last ditch effort I re-flashed the EAS ECU software with my faultmate and it went away never to be seen again.

See my other post to your fuel pump question.
 

Houm_WA

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I will address the EAS portion first: GAP recently put out a handy Excel spreadsheet that makes calibrating the sensors pretty easy. I would just step through a full 4-corner calibration. You can look at the live values and see which one is out-of-range, too. It doesn't necessarily mean that the sensor is bad, especially since it start faulting right after you started dicking around with the calibration values. There is a max/min and if you are outside that window the EAS barfs.

As for the non-starting engine: If you've ruled out battery and starter, maybe in addition to heeding Trynian's always-good advice per his other post, consider replacing the Ignition RF Capacitor. I think the PN is LR020488, BUT...there are two similar parts, one goes on or near the tranny and one under the hood. They are also called the same thing, and I don't remember which one the above part number belongs to, but it could get you started. It's a fairly cheap part.
 

dthomp87

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I will address the EAS portion first: GAP recently put out a handy Excel spreadsheet that makes calibrating the sensors pretty easy. I would just step through a full 4-corner calibration.

Can you point me to where this spreadsheet is?
 

Houm_WA

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send me a PM with your email address and I'll just email it to you as an attachment.
 

dthomp87

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I did the calibration and havent had the fault happen again yet. I havent done too much driving since, but time will tell... fingers crossed.
 

Houm_WA

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If you've driven over 60 mph since then, I think you're in the clear...that's the speed threshold for cross-articulation faults....I think. At least you know WHY it lost its calibration (i.e., you messing with it) so there is no mystery there and likely no hardware required...AND, you learned how to do a 4-corner calibration.
 

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