Passenger 12V port no power

So while I was installing the HAM radio in to wifey's LR4 I decided to fulfill one of my planned upgrades, a permanent dual USB port in place of the 12V port in the center console. So I popped out the stock one and popped in a blue sea dual USB (minor trimming of the console required). Crimped on some female connectors and popped it all back together. I used red as positive because the other was brown and that seemed to be correct. So when I got everything back together and turned on.....no power to the USB port. Great, pop off the console again and all the wires look legit. Disconnect the pigtail from the port to the main wiring and there is good continuity. I do have the truck running by he way. Then I check for power from the main harness and nada, zip, nothing. This is for the passenger side, driver's side is fine. I check the fuse for the port and it is fine. So now I'm stumped. I haven't checked the relay (and not really sure how to do that) and I haven't rechecked red from the main goes to the red through the connector. Any thoughts??
Thanks!
Chris


Backside of the port

I doubt it would be the relay. Are you sure you are checking the right fuse? The manual lists more than one for auxiliary power sockets, make sure you check all of them. Do rear passengers and load space 12v sockets still work? If they do, the relay is good and you either miswired the USB socket (normally, red / + would be the contact closest to the center of the socket, black / - the one near the outer edge judging by the photo) and/or blew a fuse while switching socket, which could easily happen if you did the socket switcheroo without disconnecting the battery first, no matter how careful you were.

So it was fuse 63 that was blown. Took a actual look tonight and saw the weird + symbol on the power port on the fuse chart and what do you know, it was blown. Replaced it and I was in business. So now I have 2 functional USB ports in a convenient spot. Fairly easy upgrade for anyone interested.

Thanks everyone for chiming in!
Chris

Yes, I had the same exact fuse blow. There are actually 3 separate fuses for the power ports. One for the rear of vehicle in 3rd row and port in the rear of the console (F55)
One for the passenger side power port on the console (F63)
One for the driver's side power port (Cigar lighter) on the console (F52)

El Solis said:

So it was fuse 63 that was blown. Took a actual look tonight and saw the weird + symbol on the power port on the fuse chart and what do you know, it was blown. Replaced it and I was in business. So now I have 2 functional USB ports in a convenient spot. Fairly easy upgrade for anyone interested.

Thanks everyone for chiming in!
Chris

Click to expand...

I was figuring it was something simple.
I swapped mine out and made a nice little harness out of the factory one to also feed my rear entertainment system (Non-OEM)
Glad you found the issue, I've used mine on every trip so far, it's nice to mot have so may chargers, and wire in the front now.

Next weekend I am doing the same in the cargo area, with a switch so I can have a USB port with constant power, for when I am camping. The unit I'm installing also has a standard power port. Which will be linked to the same constant power switch.

I guess I'm really going to have to get going on that dual battery upgrade

Dual battery for sure. I added the Traxide system and a few 12V ports. Next add on is a dual USB and volt meter for the rear cargo. I used this one in my 110 and love it. Currently the system is sitting on the bench waiting to be installed.
You can separate the 2 components so as to hide them better. I'll stick the USB port next to the 12V I added and the voltmeter close to the OEM port where it is more visible

El Solis said:

Dual battery for sure. I added the Traxide system and a few 12V ports. Next add on is a dual USB and volt meter for the rear cargo. I used this one in my 110 and love it. Currently the system is sitting on the bench waiting to be installed. View attachment 5422
You can separate the 2 components so as to hide them better. I'll stick the USB port next to the 12V I added and the voltmeter close to the OEM port where it is more visibleView attachment 5423

Click to expand...

That's funny it's the same one I have.

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Do you have a photo of how you installed the HAM radio? I have a Yaesu 2700 (or 2900 - I can't remember) currently in my Yukon but want to transfer it to my ordered LR4 (2016). Handhelds(5W) are fine for short range but dash mounted receivers (50 - 75W) have so much more range - especially with an extended antennae (only used when parked). Anything you can share would be appreciated. On multiple vehicle trips they are so handy.

Happy to share. I started w the dual battery kit and placed a fuse block in the rear storage area on the driver's side
Then I ran power across the rear tailgate hinge to the fridge port and for the HAM radio which was placed under the passenger seat.
I then drilled [emoji15] a hole in the upper corner of the passenger side behind the lift gate for the antenna wire. I just s club member who has their antenna in the same spot but they ran the antenna cable under the weather strip and crossed over into the car down low and then into the rear trim. I popped the speaker panel off and ran my antenna down to the rear storage where the jack is and then ran both the power wire and antenna cable up to the passenger seat where I drilled a hole to allow for the wires to get to under the seat. grommet and silicone were added.

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Then I pope off the center console and ran the wire for the faceplate to the front of the passenger side (placing the USB port at this time). I notched the plastic so the cable wouldn't pinch and the HAM brain is in its mount which was modified to make it sit lower as it was rubbing on the seat and I used Scotch double sided tape 20# to hold the radio to the bracket under the seat