DIY Oil Change for LR4

ilovbonezi said:

How Do You Do the reset after oil change?

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Great question, I haven't. When I have some time and remember to do it, will take it to an independent near my home. But we have grown so used the service reminder at startup that we don't notice it anymore, just forgot about it really.
There is no easy way without spending anywhere from $350 to $500 on a special OBD dongle. We need an electronics engineer in here to figure out how to do it, shouldn't be so difficult or expensive to do.

Oil Update July 2014

2013 LR4 HSE LUX V8

Just purchased oil and filter at a Rover dealer (Houston, TX). The filter was $44 and the oil was $10/quart.

The dealer said that the SLX was being phased out and supplied: Castrol Edge Professional OE 5W20. The label says: API SL, ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5. The label says "Specially engineered for Jaguar and Land Rover".

A quick websearch for Castrol Edge shows several varieties available at Walmart, & etc. One Walmart price was $7.74 quart. Since I can't see the back of the label on the Walmart site, I can't directly compare the specs.

Opinion here: Without a direct specification match, I consider the $18 price differential per oil change to be very small. (Of course if the specs match then there is no need to spend the extra $$.) But at normal kinds of mileage that's less than a $50 cost difference per year (15K miles per year and a change every 7.5K). While we all want to be conservative with total costs of ownership, if anyone is that worried about $50 then I propose that they should probably not be operating a Rover in the first place. Just my response to any number of postings complaining about oil costs for the Rover....

Thanks for the original post. The oil filter wrench and pump as specified were available on Amazon. I look forward to my first oil change this weekend!!

This is a post I got off a website some time ago. I just picked up a 2015 LR4 so I have not had to try it but maybe someone that is changing their own oil can test it out.

Landrover manual reset for oil change

Quote:
Warning Devices - Service Indicator Reset

General Procedures
Synchronization

NOTE: Make sure the Land Rover approved diagnostic equipment is not connected to the vehicle.

- Set the ignition to the ON position.
- Open the hood.
- Open the drivers door. NOTE: A service resetting message will appear on the instrument cluster.
- Fully depress both the accelerator and brake pedals and hold for 10 seconds.
- Set the ignition to the OFF position.
- Set the ignition to the ON position and check the message has been cleared.

- If the message remains, repeat the process.

That'll work on MY2014s and later. MY2010-13s still need a diagnostic tool to reset the Service Interval indicator.

Thanks guys for adding a ton of new information to this thread... And special thanks to umbertob for the YOUTUBE VIDEO!

I just completed yet another oil change, and our 2011 LR4 is now at 115,500 miles. I'm averaging an oil change every 8200 miles or so - though my goal is still 7,500 living in a rougher environment.

I'm buying Filters & Oil from the local Jaguar dealer (much cheaper than Rover), and they now honor for me the "shop discount".

*Oil Filter: Jaguar #C2D3670 - List Price $35.68; Shop Price $30.33
*Oil: Castrol Edge Professional OE SAE 5W-20 = List Price $11.44; Shop Price $9.72

Total cost: $115.49 for Filter, Rubber O-Ring & 8 quarts

Great info

Hey all,

Thanks for the detailed info and shared experiences. I've got an '11 LR4. I've read a few different M1 EP and Castrol Edge Pro docs/bottles, which I'm sure are older given the new specs that replaced the 925A. Anyhow, both vendors stated 0w20 was the correct viscosity for 925A. I think someone else mentioned that as well in this very thread. Odd that this contradicts LR manuals/service centers/mechanics. I'm such a rule follower. Ugh, my wife hates watching me assemble things. Anyhow, anything to worry about b/w 0w and 5w?

Mahalo

Did the first oil change on my LR4 since purchase. 62k on the clock. Dealer had changed at 55k.

A few interesting observations. I also purchased the Mityvac 7201. My first experience was fair. Although it is simpler in nature Im not feeling as confident with that system. I had to keep pumping the unit quiet a bit to keep the flow up. This could be due to cold oil but I wouldn't think it would make that much of a difference.

What also concerns me is that the amount of oil extracted would only go to the 7 liter mark. When I ended up refilling the engine I stopped at 6 and 7 to check the engine but the display always read too low. So I ended up just going all the way up to 8 liters for a refill. I guess my oil level could have been low from the dealer change or its burning a bit... I'll report back during my next change.



I use Liqui Moly oil exclusively for all my vehicles. Imop their oil is on par if not better than Castrol.

churious said:

I had to keep pumping the unit quiet a bit to keep the flow up. This could be due to cold oil but I wouldn't think it would make that much of a difference.

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FWIW I extracted warm oil when I used the MityVac for the first time and it bingo'ed out right at 8L. After replacing the full amount of oil I had trouble getting the digital dipstick to register a full load but then came back and checked it about 10 min later and it was spot on.

I'll be due for another change shortly after Easter. Since the last one I have been on road trips from DC to Alabama and Boston so far, and headed to Nashville for the Easter weekend. I always look forward to loading up the Landy and hitting the open road. Such a great vehicle for that.

cperez said:

FWIW I extracted warm oil when I used the MityVac for the first time and it bingo'ed out right at 8L.

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Same here, but to be fair my oil change was at 4k.

churious said:

I had to keep pumping the unit quiet a bit to keep the flow up. This could be due to cold oil but I wouldn't think it would make that much of a difference.

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Actually, it makes a pretty big difference if you will be vacuuming it out. If the engine is cold, run it on idle for about 10 minutes, then turn it off and let it rest for another 10 to allow the warmed up oil to drip and collect in the drain pan. And don't forget to loosen the filter cartridge 4 or 5 turns before you start vacuuming, you'd be surprised at how much used motor oil that cartridge will retain if you don't do that.