Change out differential and transfer case fluids

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samcarloso

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That gunk is metal shavings from gears. There is a Magnet on the tip from drain bolt to capture all shavings.
 

mbw

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I am also wondering what the thoughts are mileage intervals. I may do this one myself, not just for cost, but because I want to be absolutely sure it is done correctly and using the right fluids. I don't want to do it too often though.

My dealer has been pretty good to work with, but I still have no idea what happens behind closed doors. Last time I was in they mentioned some other brand of gear case oils, a non land rover 'system'. I said when I do it I will only use OE fluids. That makes me nervous that they would even suggest some third party oil system that is NOT approved by LR.
 

Quijote

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I am also wondering what the thoughts are mileage intervals. I may do this one myself, not just for cost, but because I want to be absolutely sure it is done correctly and using the right fluids. I don't want to do it too often though.

My dealer has been pretty good to work with, but I still have no idea what happens behind closed doors. Last time I was in they mentioned some other brand of gear case oils, a non land rover 'system'. I said when I do it I will only use OE fluids. That makes me nervous that they would even suggest some third party oil system that is NOT approved by LR.

I don't trust anyone. Not everyone does what they are supposed to do, and that can sometimes include dealers. That said, if it's something I can't do, I'd trust a dealer more than anyone else.

The thing is, it's all about time. Tell me the last time you saw a dealer torque down your wheels with a torque wrench. Every time the wheels are over torqued.

It's like anything else, and I understand the business reason for it. I just did a lot of electrical wiring for my detached garage. My electrician neighbor and the inspectors were in awe of what a nice job I did. Surely better than a pro. Problem is, if I worked as an electrician I'd starve. What takes me 2 hours to do perfectly, pros can do a good enough job in 45 minutes. If they did it perfectly it could cost too much. Same in a car. Mechanics will often use tricks to do things quickly that may not be recommended. Often times, in the event of a problem, the problem wont show up for several thousand miles.

I rather take longer and enjoy doing it and be proud I did it myself.
 
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Lone Star landy

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I don't trust anyone. Not everyone does what they are supposed to do, and that can sometimes include dealers.

Exactly. I do it myself, so that I know it's been done right. Especially, something so simple as fluid changes.
 
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Disco Mike

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Do it every 30,000 or sooner for both the diffs as well as the t/case.
That has been what Rover as recommended on everything they have built up to the LR3' and newer and when you consider the newer vehicles have about have the total capacity it is foolish not to.
 

Quijote

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Do it every 30,000 or sooner for both the diffs as well as the t/case.
That has been what Rover as recommended on everything they have built up to the LR3' and newer and when you consider the newer vehicles have about have the total capacity it is foolish not to.

Thanks Mike!

For me that's every ~4 years, so no big deal.
 

no-pistons

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Seems to me these diffs are ******* the oil and need pretty frequent changes.

I picked up my LR3 about a year ago with approximately 57k miles. I changed the front and rear diff oils with Royal purple max gear 75w90. The oil came out very dark and disgusting looking, with about about 1/2" thick of shavings on the magnet.

Now approximately 9k miles later I end up with some extra Motul 300 75w90 gear oil (supposedly one of the best gear oils out there) so I decide to change it again to see what's going on with the oil.

The oil again came out dark and disgusting again, with about 3/16" thick of shavings after only about 9k miles of mostly city/highway driving.




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RBA

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The gear oil capacity on the LR4 is pretty low compared to my Gwagen, it's actually half. So I changed mine early and plan to change it often. Now I need to flush the tranny.
 

mbw

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Do it every 30,000 or sooner for both the diffs as well as the t/case.
That has been what Rover as recommended on everything they have built up to the LR3' and newer and when you consider the newer vehicles have about have the total capacity it is foolish not to.

I probably need to do mine then. I also tow a lot.

What are your thoughts on the fluids? I see people posting that they used this or that brand, mobil, etc. I plan on sticking OEM, but im curious about how picky I should be. More important to just have fresh oil than what brand?

I have the locking rear diff/HD pack, and I know the manual specifies different oil for that.

Main gearbox oil Shell ATF M1375.4
Transfer gearbox oil Shell TF 0753
Front differential oil Castrol SAF-XO
Rear differential oil (non-locking) Castrol SAF-XO
Rear differential oil (electronic locking) Castrol SAF Carbon Mod Plus
 

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