Diff Lock

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jesse682000

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So I recently bought a 1995 Land Rover Discovery. Knowing little about the vheicle I had few questions to ask. I had a couple warning lights on, but the guy assured me that Land Rovers are notorious for random warning lights. After purchasing the rave cd I found out about the diff lock, and thet mine is on. When I try to disengage it (put the selector lever over to the right) the light goes out, but the transmission dosent engege, it only makes noises like it's trying to engage. Any suggestions for a new landrover owner. Thanks

Jesse
 

FFNPMcD

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last guy to ask

I have been under the impression that normal driving with the diff lock on is terrible for the vehicle. Not sure how long it was driving like that but it may have caused more problems.
AS far as it not being able to engage in normal 4 high..
Sounds like the shifter may be stuck in neutral...
I have heard you need to 'unwind' it at times by driving in reverse with the lock on....
That advice may have come from someone pullin my leg

BUT as I stated I am the last person to answer any questions,.
 

Chongo

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Is there anyway you can get your money back or reverse the sale? Did you hear some chirping noises when you turned sharply ? and did the steering wheel resist you as you turned while you drove in on pavement?

Transfercases usually come in two types, full time 4x4 and part time 4x4.
The Land Rover you have is a full time 4x4. This means you are in four wheel drive all the time. In non dif lock mode power is differentiated between front and rear driveshafts delivering differentiated torque to both front and rear axle differentials, the axle differentials then distribute torque to the left or right tire of that axle.. In dif lock position the only differential is in the axles, both driveshafts turn at the same rate with no differentiation. Think of it as positraction in the transfercase. Under no circumstances should this full time unit be driven on a paved surface in 4x4 lock.

The reason for differentials......... Imagine your friend holding a rope, and he holds this rope and turns around in a circle ie spinning. This rope he holds is 20 feet long. you hold onto the rope 5 feet from the center at a walking speed. Your second friend friend of yours grabs onto the rope 5 feet from you, 10 from center, and is at a jogging speed to keep up. Your third friend grabs onto the rope at fifteen feet from center and is at a full run. And your 4th friend is on a jet scooter trying to grab onto the end of the 20 foot rope. in other words, going around in a circle, the farther you are from center the more ground you cover, and the higher the rate of speed in time.

So as your vehicle turns a corner something has to let the inside wheels turn slower than the outer wheels, yet still provide approximately equal torque to both wheels traveling at different speeds...... DIFFERENTIALS.
Your vehicle has 3 of these. one in the front axle, one in the rear axle, and one in the transfercase, (with the exception of positraction or limited slip units). The one in the transfercase has two settings,
differentiated = ( non lock) and non differentiated = ( dif lock). The purpose of this unit is to provide exta traction by means of supplying even torque to both axles at all times without differentiation for more traction off road only and lets tire slippage in dirt compensate for the transfercase differential loss in dif lock mode. You locked it out of a differentiating mode.

At this point you need to drain the transfercase fluids and check for metal glitter and debris. This also has to be done in both front and rear axles. Also you may be replaceing many, and maybe all universal joints, Including the front double cardian one and the ones at the wheels. This is very strenuous on many items, shaft splines, spyder gears, bearings, etc. etc. etc. Everything being in such a bind is probably why it doesn't shift back into non dif lock mode. the cable probably needs adjustment or something has worn badly
which is probably the least of this vehicles problems.
Depending on how far it was driven on pavement will determine how much damage is done. And unfortunanely if there's alot of debris, nothing but a healthy bank account can help you here. I would try to get in touch with the person who sold it to you and try to work something out.
If all else fails and he won't work with you try getting your parts through

brittishpacific.com

or

atlanticbritish.com



I wish you the best of luck here and the people here on this forum are excellent for help especially joey.
 
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kh500

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antichrist

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You're in VA, so you're close to Will Tillery for used parts if you need parts.
 

jesse682000

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Thanks for all the good advice. I plan on taking it into the dealer on tuesday to see what kind of damage has been done. Its a 30 mile drive, but lord only knows how many miles have been driven on this truck with the diff lock on.


Is there anyway you can get your money back or reverse the sale? Did you hear some chirping noises when you turned sharply ? and did the steering wheel resist you as you turned while you drove in on pavement?

Transfercases usually come in two types, full time 4x4 and part time 4x4.
The Land Rover you have is a full time 4x4. This means you are in four wheel drive all the time. In non dif lock mode power is differentiated between front and rear driveshafts delivering differentiated torque to both front and rear axle differentials, the axle differentials then distribute torque to the left or right tire of that axle.. In dif lock position the only differential is in the axles, both driveshafts turn at the same rate with no differentiation. Think of it as positraction in the transfercase. Under no circumstances should this full time unit be driven on a paved surface in 4x4 lock.

The reason for differentials......... Imagine your friend holding a rope, and he holds this rope and turns around in a circle ie spinning. This rope he holds is 20 feet long. you hold onto the rope 5 feet from the center at a walking speed. Your second friend friend of yours grabs onto the rope 5 feet from you, 10 from center, and is at a jogging speed to keep up. Your third friend grabs onto the rope at fifteen feet from center and is at a full run. And your 4th friend is on a jet scooter trying to grab onto the end of the 20 foot rope. in other words, going around in a circle, the farther you are from center the more ground you cover, and the higher the rate of speed in time.

So as your vehicle turns a corner something has to let the inside wheels turn slower than the outer wheels, yet still provide approximately equal torque to both wheels traveling at different speeds...... DIFFERENTIALS.
Your vehicle has 3 of these. one in the front axle, one in the rear axle, and one in the transfercase, (with the exception of positraction or limited slip units). The one in the transfercase has two settings,
differentiated = ( non lock) and non differentiated = ( dif lock). The purpose of this unit is to provide exta traction by means of supplying even torque to both axles at all times without differentiation for more traction off road only and lets tire slippage in dirt compensate for the transfercase differential loss in dif lock mode. You locked it out of a differentiating mode.

At this point you need to drain the transfercase fluids and check for metal glitter and debris. This also has to be done in both front and rear axles. Also you may be replaceing many, and maybe all universal joints, Including the front double cardian one and the ones at the wheels. This is very strenuous on many items, shaft splines, spyder gears, bearings, etc. etc. etc. Everything being in such a bind is probably why it doesn't shift back into non dif lock mode. the cable probably needs adjustment or something has worn badly
which is probably the least of this vehicles problems.
Depending on how far it was driven on pavement will determine how much damage is done. And unfortunanely if there's alot of debris, nothing but a healthy bank account can help you here. I would try to get in touch with the person who sold it to you and try to work something out.
If all else fails and he won't work with you try getting your parts through

brittishpacific.com

or

atlanticbritish.com



I wish you the best of luck here and the people here on this forum are excellent for help especially joey.
 

jesse682000

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So confused

So I decided to wait a little while before I her in. I did however put the entire truck up on jack stands and play around a bit. I discovered that although the shift lever is in diff lock mode and the light is on, the rear tires are not in diff lock mode. They both spin at different speeds when I put the truck in gear. The front tires however don't spin at all. I can hear some grinding like sound from outside, but no spinning. I'm not sure if this wierd behavior is from being driven in diff lock or if this truck is just all messed up.
 

Chongo

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This sounds better

Since I'm not there to see what is happening, all four tires being up in the air on jacks. What should happen with the engine off and in park, you should be able to manually turn the rear driveshaft and the front one should turn the opposite way one for one. I do believe at this point, with what you’re telling me, that the real problem may just be a linkage adjustment problem. You’ve probably been in non diff lock mode all this time, but the linkage is telling the sensors differently because it is in the wrong location.
You probably aren’t getting into 4 lock due to the linkage adjustment. This needs to be adjusted correctly to get full use of your transfer case.

Probably the main reason for the front tires not spinning is due to the differentiated mode in the transfer case, non diff lock mode.

This would be good news and just a cable adjustment.

Good luck and lets hope it is just an adjustment.

Chongo
 

jesse682000

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more looking

So tonight I paid a little closer attention when I was messing around.

When the lever was in non diff the front drive shaft spun, but the tires didn't spin. Also in non diff the back drive shaft didn't spin at all.

When the lever was in diff lock position the front drive shaft spun, but the tires didn't, and the rear shaft spun and tires moved (they weren't moving at the same time).

So if it is linkage is that the part that is located on top of the transfer case?, and what is the spec's for it. Thanks for all your help

Jesse
 

Chongo

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Time to take it in.

This is a little different than what you told me last night. Did you do this with the engine off, and in park, turning the driveshaft by hand per my post yesterday ? or is the engine running and your looking to see what is spinning?
A vehicle up on jack stands with tires spinning is a dangerous situation to say the least. The same test can be performed without the engine running, without any potential danger…………… Please be safe.
Well to start with if the front driveshaft turns and the front tires don’t, not even one, then something has to be repaired in the front axle, there’s no locking hubs in this stock front axle period.

Weather or not the linkage is correct or not is unknown, I would bet it is. You probably were in 4 lock and something gave way in the front axle. If you turn the front driveshaft with the engine off and in park the front tires should turn. If the front tires do not turn you’ve turned your Landover into a 2 wheel drive, which will only go forward in 4 lock. Try putting the transfer case out of lock and I bet just the front driveshaft turns. You’ve lost the front axle.

At this point you need to drain the transfer case fluids and check for metal glitter and debris. This also has to be done in both front and rear axles. Also you may be replacing many, and maybe all universal joints, Including the front double cardian one and the ones at the wheels. This is very strenuous on many items, shaft splines, spider gears, bearings, etc. etc. etc. Everything being in such a bind is why the front axle gave way. which is probably the least of this vehicles problems.
Depending on how far it was driven on pavement will determine how much damage is done. And unfortunately if there's a lot of debris, nothing but a healthy bank account can help you here. I would try to get in touch with the person who sold it to you and try to work something out. Or I’d take it to a good mechanic.

Best wishes here, be safe and keep us posted…… chongo
 
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