Extended Warranty

[Surfrider77]

CPO warranty extends it for 2 more years, with aftermarket you have the flexibility to extend longer.

I live in a different country with different warranty periods. It is 3 yrs standard, with 2 year extended (most dealers throw this in at the beginning like mine). Then you can further extend to take you to a maximum of 7 years. The fact that you can destroy your truck in an accident and never get that extended warranty money back is relevant wherever you are in the world.

 

[colorover]

In the US, with most extended warranties I am aware of, you would get a pro-rated refund if your car was totaled.

I've been calling around and will share the quotes I get.

 

[mateored]

I got a 4-year extension on my 2011 LR4 through USAA for around $3200, which was roughly half the price my dealer wanted. It easily paid for itself in the first year due to a slew of relatively minor problems. Fantastic warranty too - my dealer said it's the first warranty they have seen that has even covered a new battery. If you are USAA eligible, check them out.

As for the benefits of warranties, you are paying a small premium over the actuarial predicted cost of repairs in order to lock in a known, manageable cost instead of the risk of getting hit with a massive repair (like a new engine). Same reason I have fire insurance on my house. I'm not actually expecting to use it, but I like having it.

 

[colorover]

I got a 4-year extension on my 2011 LR4 through USAA for around $3200, which was roughly half the price my dealer wanted. It easily paid for itself in the first year due to a slew of relatively minor problems. Fantastic warranty too - my dealer said it's the first warranty they have seen that has even covered a new battery. If you are USAA eligible, check them out.

As for the benefits of warranties, you are paying a small premium over the actuarial predicted cost of repairs in order to lock in a known, manageable cost instead of the risk of getting hit with a massive repair (like a new engine). Same reason I have fire insurance on my house. I'm not actually expecting to use it, but I like having it.

Thank you! Very helpful, and agree with your reasoning. Exactly the reason why one buys any insurance policy v. self-insuring.

 

[jwest]

The Tacoma WA dealer in Fife had a great aftermarket warranty but I do not recall it's name. I bought it just before the exp of factory just under 50k/4yrs on the 2007 lr3 i bought new. My math said 4 more yrs up to max 100k was best for me. I paid roughly $4500 including tax but it covered almost 3x in repairs in the driveline, struts, hubs, and misc.

I feel it is important to remind people to do the math on the various deductibles as well. I opted for 0$ seeing that just 10 visits for little crap would increase my 'cost' of warranty by 25%. Knowing how Land Rovers can be, 0$ seemed like the way to go. Otherwise, yes, you might as well just tuck away the $ and gamble on no issues.

Side note: I am an active investor/trader so I see that "investment" as a 300% win over the 4 yrs.

 

[Pfunk951]

Just got a call back from the dealer, $4,000+ in injector work covered by my warranty. I am now in the green on the warranty, and didn't have to un-hide any of my secret Cessna fund for the repairs..

The warranty company was initially reluctant, but the dealership and myself (with the awesomeness of Umberto) wore them down..

Mike

 

[BeemerNut]

Backing up to 2000 a end of 5 year 60K lease purchase on a 95 D1 w/5-speed loaded to the max.
It had 7 year 100K extended coverage the PO paid for, 2 years extended freebie to me getting everything that was wrong finally corrected.
LR dealership knew this as well me personally hence every failed or not working properly item taken care off. This D1 kept their "Techs" employed.
By the end of extended coverage the 3.9 engine (POS) crank shaft was removed with engine still in vehicle. Costs adding into thousands of dollars.
Oil pump with housing another mess eating itself up, hot wire induction air mass failure, distributor centrifugal weight failure, steering box new replacement.
Ended up saving Western General over $1,300 by locating a factory new short block a 4.6 litre engine.
Between that engine, both replaced sun roof tracks, clutch pressure plate failure ( 300 miles a week later).
Free to me 2 extra years coverage costing extended coverage over $17K in repairs. What was repaired the first 5 years in costs plus my costs I bet was more than the D1 was worth back in 95.
The sticker is free parts but labor cost you had better bend over and take it deep in labor dollars.
Best part after 7/100K expired I did yank and modify 4.6 engine, cam, heads, compression, chip, headers, ported heads, induction system mods, injectors (Bosch) suspension mods for the street use a leak free safe street vehicle. They should of come from Beef Eater Limey Land this way in the first place , oops they did offer a 4.6 w/slush box fir Discos once. No 350 Chubbie install in my book.
Modern day Rovers with tons of more crap doomed to fail under Rover ownership vs failure odds ratio one would be a fool to not have extended coverage unless the owner has more money than brains.
One must shop around for the best extended coverage. Then again us LR owners are already an odd duck. Had to be a **** to some and sound off as it took 10 years to straighten out my D1's flaws to my standards. Prost, Carl.....~~=o&o>.....

 

[mbw]

Backing up to 2000 a end of 5 year 60K lease purchase on a 95 D1 w/5-speed loaded to the max.
It had 7 year 100K extended coverage the PO paid for, 2 years extended freebie to me getting everything that was wrong finally corrected.
LR dealership knew this as well me personally hence every failed or not working properly item taken care off. This D1 kept their "Techs" employed.
By the end of extended coverage the 3.9 engine (POS) crank shaft was removed with engine still in vehicle. Costs adding into thousands of dollars.
Oil pump with housing another mess eating itself up, hot wire induction air mass failure, distributor centrifugal weight failure, steering box new replacement.
Ended up saving Western General over $1,300 by locating a factory new short block a 4.6 litre engine.
Between that engine, both replaced sun roof tracks, clutch pressure plate failure ( 300 miles a week later).
Free to me 2 extra years coverage costing extended coverage over $17K in repairs. What was repaired the first 5 years in costs plus my costs I bet was more than the D1 was worth back in 95.
The sticker is free parts but labor cost you had better bend over and take it deep in labor dollars.
Best part after 7/100K expired I did yank and modify 4.6 engine, cam, heads, compression, chip, headers, ported heads, induction system mods, injectors (Bosch) suspension mods for the street use a leak free safe street vehicle. They should of come from Beef Eater Limey Land this way in the first place , oops they did offer a 4.6 w/slush box fir Discos once. No 350 Chubbie install in my book.
Modern day Rovers with tons of more crap doomed to fail under Rover ownership vs failure odds ratio one would be a fool to not have extended coverage unless the owner has more money than brains.
One must shop around for the best extended coverage. Then again us LR owners are already an odd duck. Had to be a **** to some and sound off as it took 10 years to straighten out my D1's flaws to my standards. Prost, Carl.....~~=o&o>.....

You are comparing a D1 to later model LR4? If I was a D1 owner i'd want a warranty.. no question.

 

[jwest]

You are comparing a D1 to later model LR4? If I was a D1 owner i'd want a warranty.. no question.

Nah, opposite! D1/2 are cheaper to work on and far fewer high tech gizmos to repair/replace. My D1 and D2 never needed a new differential, struts/springs, and the things it has needed have never been the type to cause vehicle to lower itself and want to shut down...

The older ones never needed any suspension bushings or wheel bearings in same mileage as my lr3.

IMO the trick with the lr3/4 is that most don't need much before 50k miles but if you can get a deal on a 100k/8 yr coverage, that one is much more likely to be useful. Most of the crap on mine happened in the 80-100k and 7th-8 yr range.

 

[colorover]

Nah, opposite! D1/2 are cheaper to work on and far fewer high tech gizmos to repair/replace. My D1 and D2 never needed a new differential, struts/springs, and the things it has needed have never been the type to cause vehicle to lower itself and want to shut down...

The older ones never needed any suspension bushings or wheel bearings in same mileage as my lr3.

IMO the trick with the lr3/4 is that most don't need much before 50k miles but if you can get a deal on a 100k/8 yr coverage, that one is much more likely to be useful. Most of the crap on mine happened in the 80-100k and 7th-8 yr range.

Same here, although my 3 needed quite a lot before 50k, too. I've gone without after the CPO period expired and am about breakeven now at ~105k. On the 4, we had a few issues early on, but mostly routine maintenance since.