Brake replacement

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meanc

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Good morning everyone. Hope all is well.

New to the site and want to thank everyone that has contributed their troubleshooting/repair experience to guys like me.

Right now I am tackling the rear brakes. I've read a few posts and have 99% of the tools for the job. That 1% happens to be the 15/17mm wrenches.

All I have are standard width and thickness which apparently is a problem.

My question is what dimensions should I grind them to for a proper fit?

Thanks in advance.
 

gtc

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Wouldn't it simply be cheaper and easier to buy a metric set? Even just the 15/17mm? (or am I missing something obvious? ;) )
 

roverman

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The standard wrenches are a bit to thick to grasp the nut on account of the flange that's on it. Honestly, I just use pliers and grasp the flange and it works fine.
 

meanc

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As Roverman stated, the wrenches in their factory form are too wide because of the flange around the mouth.

A standard wrench needs to be narrowed to fit on the nut. I'm trying to find out just much to grind off so I can have that done. So, when the components arrive I will have everything at hand and ready to go
 

craiglud

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I just did my brakes about a month ago and was also concerned about the wrenches that I had fitting. In my case the ones that I had worked just fine so no grinding was needed. It might be worthwhile to check yours first as your mileage may vary. It was pretty easy process overall.
 

meanc

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Thanks Craig. I guess I'll have to check and see first. Hopefully I'll get lucky.
 

meanc

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Finished replacing the rear pads and rotors this morning.

Luckily there was no need to grind the 15mm wrench. It barely fit, but I got it in there.

All in all it took about an hour to complete.
 

mustbeaudi

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It's always so nice when someone takes time to follow up on a thread. Thanks, and well done.
 

meanc

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Here is a list of specific tools and process for doing the rears on the LR3.


#1 T-50 Torx head for the rotor

#2 13mm box end wrench or socket (outside) and 15mm box end wrench (inside) to remove the brake housing from the sliders

#3 15mm 12pt socket to remove the caliper from the hub.

#4 7/16" box end wrench to loosen the bleeder screw.

#5 6" C-clamp to compress the cylinder. (a 3" will also work)


I removed each component in the order listed above and cleaned everything thoroughly (including everything still attached to the axle) with brake cleaner.

#1 Put on the rotor and attached the torx screw.

#2 Put new pads into the brake pad housing and reattached it to the sliders (13mm and 15mm wrenches)

#3 Reattached the caliper. (15mm 12pt bolts)

#4 Bled the lines (7/16" box end wrench)

#5 Put the wheels back on.

#6 Topped off the Brake Fluid reservoir.


Hopefully someone will find this helpful.
 

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