Complete shut down

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JCDC

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I have a 2016 Range Rover Long Wheelbase for almost a year; low milage around 5000.
Did not drive it too much until recently (as my other car was hit by another car in auto accident). Since I have been driving this Range Rover, the engine completely shut down while I am at a stop (in Drive, foot on break for about 15" or so -- usually waiting at stop sign (unlike the Eco-boost gasoline system, where if you lift off the brake, it will start again)).

The car is completely shut down. The gear is in "Park." The only way is to re-start the engine.

Anyone else have this complete shut down problem?

I took it to the dealer, but they thought it was the Eco-boost system. But this problem is unlike the Eco-boost system (which can re-start when foot if lift off the brake).

I plan to take it to the dealer again. But, unless they can re-produce the problem, they can't find out.

Anyone else with this problem and was able to resolve it at dealer? Did I buy a lemon?

********************************

I found below on the Internet (do you think is any of the reasons listed?):

When I slow down and stop the car, engine shuts off Inspection Service & Cost
Your car is designed to run like a well-oiled machine, but sometimes that machine struggles in unexpected places. There’s not always a warning light to alert you of this, but sometimes your car will be driving fine at road speed, only to die when you slow down and stop. If your engine shuts off at low speed, contact a mechanic immediately for a thorough inspection.

Common reasons for this to happen:
  • Malfunctioning transmission: In a car with an automatic transmission, the torque converter takes the place of the manual clutch and is responsible for transmitting power. If the torque converter is broken, or if there is a low fluid level in the transmission, the converter will not do its job, and the car will be unable to maintain power at low speeds, which causes the engine to shut off. A defective TCS or torque converter solenoid can also cause this issue.

  • Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump: The fuel pump is responsible for transferring fuel from the tank to the engine. A malfunctioning fuel pump can result in low fuel pressure, which means that there is an inconsistent stream of fuel to the engine. At high speeds this doesn’t matter as much, but at low speeds a temporary pause in the fuel stream is enough to **** the engine. The fuel injectors are responsible for spraying a measured amount of fuel that is ignited by the spark plugs at the proper time. Injectors can become clogged or dirty over time resulting in erratic spray or no spray at all.

  • Bad oxygen sensor or mass flow sensor: The oxygen sensors and mass flow sensor determine how much oxygen is entering the fuel stream, and helps the vehicle adjust the air-to-fuel ratio. If there is too much or too little oxygen, your vehicle will not have optimal power. Just like with low fuel pressure, the car will continue to operate at driving speeds, but this suboptimal power won’t be able to fuel the vehicle as it slows down.

  • Loose or corroded wires in wiring harness: An inconsistently firing ignition will result in an easily stalled engine. If the wires don’t have consistent, constant, and reliable connection with the ignition circuit, the vehicle can lose voltage quickly, and it won’t have the power it needs to keep running as you slow down.

  • Faulty idle air control actuator: The idle air control actuator controls the engines RPMs when it is idling. This actuator receives information from the electronic control unit (ECU) so it knows at what RPM to keep the engine for a smooth and safe idle. When the actuator malfunctions, the engine gets no signal for idling speed and stops working.

  • Clogged or restricted EGR Valve: If your EGR valve is clogged, dirty, or defective it can cause your car to stall, idle erratically, or sputter, depending on whether it is stuck open or closed.
What to expect:
A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the stalling condition, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:
The mechanic will likely need to test drive your vehicle to see if the problem can be replicated and will listen to the engine at idle to identify any misses, backfires, or other unusual noises. Next, the mechanic will use a scan tool to access the engine control unit or transmission control computer to find any information on stored codes.

Based on the engine performance, test drive and the diagnostic information, the mechanic will pinpoint where the issue is coming from, and let you know what parts need to be replaced or cleaned. Please be aware that this make take some time as oftentimes multiple items have the ability to cause this issue and the mechanic will often have to disassemble and inspect several parts before he or she can make a proper diagnosis.

How important is this service?
If you notice your vehicle stalling when you slow down and stop, park the car in a safe place and book a mechanic to perform an inspection as soon as possible. It is unsafe to continue driving under this condition and could result in further damage to your vehicle.
 

SoCalPaul

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So just in case this helps...

I had a problem with my 2011 Range Rover.. in that every so often it would completely cut out.. and then restart again. Strangely it was often on the same bumpy hill going home from the office.

This gave me the clue to check battery connections, which were fine. But as I was tugging at leads..I saw sparks. When I traced it.. the red battery cable was touching a metal part of the frame, which overtime and worn through the insulation. So on certain bumps it caused the cable to short and shutdown the car.

Fixed with insulation tape a slight re-route of the power cable.
 

colorover

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Mine was suspected to be a bad oxygen or MAF sensor but never proven since so faults were stored.
 

LR4 in CO

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I had the same happen a couple times in a different SUV, a Cayenne Turbo. I'd be going along, when the engine would just shut off. I coasted to the side shut off the ignition, and re-started the engine with no problem.

At first, the dealer's service dept. couldn't find any cause for this. Then one of their techs did a thorough visual inspection in the engine area and found that a rodent had chewed on some of the wiring in a particular harness causing either an intermittent connection or a short.

My garage was completely drywalled, walls and ceiling. I took a good look there, and couldn't find any trace of a mouse or any other rodent that had been able to get behind the drywall.

They were able to repair the harness without replacing it. They also said this happens way more often than you'd think.
 

JCDC

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Thank you.
I went to the dealer service today. They believe this shut off relates to the Eco-boost system.

So, (1) if the Eco-boost system is on in the car, and you come to a long stop (e.g. waiting for a passenger, security gate to open), (2) the Eco-system kicks in, (3) then you change gear to "P" park, (4) then also take off your seat belt; the engine completely shuts off. I tried testing the sequence repeatedly, it seems to be true.

However, I am not sure if these still happens, if I leave in "D" with feet on break, and take off the seat belt? Have to find another time to test again.
 

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