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Mixing different oil brands is not a good idea. Please don't. Especially on an engine like the Jag V8 which has a unique oil specification.
As a new owner of a 2010 LR4, I've been doing a lot of research into the oil specification. The original spec in the owner's manual and factory service manual is M2C925-A and they do not allow substitution of any ACEA rated oils (either A1/B1 or A5/B5). Everything I've found indicates it must be M2C925-A oil.
Mixing different oil brands is not a good idea. Please don't. Especially on an engine like the Jag V8 which has a unique oil specification.
As a new owner of a 2010 LR4, I've been doing a lot of research into the oil specification. The original spec in the owner's manual and factory service manual is M2C925-A and they do not allow substitution of any ACEA rated oils (either A1/B1 or A5/B5). Everything I've found indicates it must be M2C925-A oil.
There have been several claims that M2C925-A was superceded to a newer Ford spec (i.e., M2C945-A?) but I've never been able to find documentation proving this, only speculation. My local Land Rover dealer sells the correct oil for about $8 per quart (exact same stuff they use in their LR4 ~$200 L/O/F service). For the moment, I'm going to use that, until I can find proof that other oils are compatible.
I also spent time looking for oils with official M2C925-A ratings. It seems there had been several, but some have vanished or become very difficult to locate from USA vendors (i.e., the unique Motul and Liqui-Moly M2C925-A oils). Mobil does not currently offer anything in the USA that meets this spec, and I would not use their 5W-20 EP. Their product finder is very clear about this: "...your vehicle manufacturer recommends a 5W-20 viscosity and oil that meets Ford WSS M2C925-A. We currently do not offer any motor oils in the United States that meet these specifications."
I did find that Red Line claims their 5W-20 is recommended for use in M2C925-A applications (click here). And, their product finder confirms this for the LR4 V8. I may try this in the future; I'd like to compare the additive package (ZDDP, moly, TBN, etc) with the dealer Castrol M2C925-A oil first before taking the plunge. Summit Racing sells the Red Line oil in gallon jugs for $48/gallon, $12/qt, free shipping over $99.
Why does it matter? Isn't all name-brand synthetic 5W-20 oil the same? Well, no, it isn't. That's more of a BITOG forum discussion though so I won't go there. Keep in mind the Jaguar AJ133 5.0L engine is an advanced design with variable valve lift which is controlled by oil pressure/flow; and Land Rover has specified 15kmi oil change intervals. Using an oil without the specific properties Jaguar intended could cause a number of interesting problems. Y'all are probably aware of the infamous timing chain / rails / tensioner issues on these engines. My personal theory is that the timing chain issues are possibly related to people either using the wrong oil spec, and/or not changing the oil by 15kmi max, or using a poorly-rated oil for 15k intervals where the 'wrong' oil cannot perform correctly for that long of a service interval.
I may be completely wrong, but given the cost of repairing or replacing this fancy 5L engine, do you really want to pinch pennies and not use the oil spec Land Rover requires? I mean it's not like the M2C925-A oil is $30/qt or something crazy. My local dealer may be better priced than others at $8/qt, but is $12-14/qt really end of the world? Another $50 every year or so vs cheaper oil? I was more grumpy about the cost of an OE oil filter (~$30) made in China, lol.
So anyway. If anyone actually read to the end of my rant, do you really need a diagnostic tool to reset the service interval on the 2010-2013 LR4? And does that mean the GAP IID tool only, or will something else work (without paying the dealer)? I read all 18 pages and never saw a definite answer.
Thanks!
