LR3 4.4 V8 vs LR4 5.0 V8 reliability?

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ktm525

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"braking" .... "LCA" are the same.... but ok whatever LOL

Also:

I've had a 2013 LR4 HSE loaner for a week at a time....liked it yes, but not enough to merit $30-$40k differential at the time. My new control arms have better ball joints than factory lr4, my new Bilstien 4600 series dampers are better than LR4 factory, my EBC brakes, even being smaller to fit 17" wheels, brake just as effortlessly as before so very little practical differences exist other than the engine and transmission.

And yes, it is in fact the transmission that is the issue not holding high gears, not the motor LOL The lr3 motor has plenty of torque to do so.

Enjoy the lr4 though... they are certainly nice.


Whatever LR did to the early LR3 LCAs it worked because the later ones (LR4+) do not wear like the early ones. Never had a problem with the ball joints rather the hydro bushings would crap the bed early and often. On the LR3 the alignment was always going out of spec (due to bushing settling/degradation?) but not so in the new stuff. This is what gave the 3 the reputation for chewing up tires quickly. The geometry was changed (Range Rover Sport specs) in the LR4 which gives a much better road feel although the quicker steering ratio may be a drawback offroad.

The brakes were definitely improved and up sized on the LR4. AS you know this is why OEM LR3 18" wheels will not fit on the LR4 as they do not clear the larger calipers. Again an improvement for the road but a PITA if looking for 18" rubber. Adding quality aftermarket stuff makes the braking even better.

Transmission I believe is the same LR3/LR4 . With the LR3 the transmission was constantly dropping out of sixth when travelling 80 mph+. With the LR4 the extra torque and HP reduced that to just once in awhile. Again nothing wrong with the 3 and less money for maintenance, just don't be in a hurry and plan your 2 lane highway passes carefully. The 4.4 is quieter an smoother than the 5.0L.
 

Houm_WA

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So are the newest LCAs for the LR3 reflective of this improvement? I changed mine a few years ago (27,000 miles ago) and am hoping they last a while!
 

ktm525

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I believe so as the first ones were quick to go. My 2006 LR3 had them done at 60k kms and again at 160 k kms. The ones on my LR4 made it to 150 k kms before replacement. It is not the ball joints tht are the weak points but rather the bushings.
 

jwest

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So are the newest LCAs for the LR3 reflective of this improvement? I changed mine a few years ago (27,000 miles ago) and am hoping they last a while!

What control arms did you use? Any options for front shocks?

jwest... where did you get the Bilstien? do they come with the air spring (or you have converted to coil...) I've been looking for Bilstien with air springs (all 4 corners) for my D3.

I did a lot of research and went with the Meyle front LCA for their "upgrade over factory HD balljoint" Got the others from Atlantic British or Rovers North (the AB hardware sucks, just buy the factory hardware from a dealer or Merriam KS rover dealer online)

The front struts are a complete package option from Bilstein using the upgraded 4600 damper. For the rear, they only had the damper so I have yet to swap them into new air springs due to an apparently intended re-use part that I don't want to remove from the old strut seeing as it's not "bad"- I'm just upgrading to match the front.
 

jwest

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I believe so as the first ones were quick to go. My 2006 LR3 had them done at 60k kms and again at 160 k kms. The ones on my LR4 made it to 150 k kms before replacement. It is not the ball joints tht are the weak points but rather the bushings.

So I find this interesting because the dealer tech said he finds the hydro bushings wearing out...I think but I'll ask again. Not sure what the visual difference is though. I think he had asked me if I used the sport control arms or something.
 

Houm_WA

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I believe that LR uprated the ball joints themselves in later LCAs. I wonder if the Meyle LCA is using that or if they have an "uprated uprated ball joint."
 

wyrover

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I did a lot of research and went with the Meyle front LCA for their "upgrade over factory HD balljoint" Got the others from Atlantic British or Rovers North (the AB hardware sucks, just buy the factory hardware from a dealer or Merriam KS rover dealer online)

The front struts are a complete package option from Bilstein using the upgraded 4600 damper. For the rear, they only had the damper so I have yet to swap them into new air springs due to an apparently intended re-use part that I don't want to remove from the old strut seeing as it's not "bad"- I'm just upgrading to match the front.
Where did you buy your parts?
 

PaulLR3

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As noted above, I agree that the 5.0 is far more powerful than the 4.4 and you don't get that constant 6th to 5th downshift, especially when driving in hilly areas. However we have replaced the water pump in both of ours due to a minor leak. I think the chain guide problem is only a 2010 & 2011 issue.

That said, the 5.0 is somewhat noisy, especially when pushed hard. The 4.4 was just quieter and somehow felt more refined.
 

ktm525

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As noted above, I agree that the 5.0 is far more powerful than the 4.4 and you don't get that constant 6th to 5th downshift, especially when driving in hilly areas. However we have replaced the water pump in both of ours due to a minor leak. I think the chain guide problem is only a 2010 & 2011 issue.

That said, the 5.0 is somewhat noisy, especially when pushed hard. The 4.4 was just quieter and somehow felt more refined.

Completely agree. 4.0-4.4L is a sweet spot for V8 displacement in terms of smoothness. After this things get a little more rough. BTW First water pump on the 5.0L at 150 k kms. No timing chain guide issues yet (2010) knock on wood.
 

wyrover

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I'm thinking I might get a tune on my 4.4 engine. There's a place called ecu tuning group http://www.ecutuninggroup.com I came across. They said a tune would give me an additional 30hp and 25 ft lbs tq.
 

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