Lower Control Arms

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jwest

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Hey everyone,
Along with my front diff issue, it looks like my lower control arm rear bushings are starting to go. After looking through the forum I’m thinking to replace the entire control arm and swap out the bushings with the poly bushings since we’ll be in there anyway. Thoughts?

Also do you thing a non LR tech can manage this job, or am I playing with fire?

Thanks,
Todd

Non rover familiar tech may not know to not tighten control arms unless wheel knuckle is suspended to exact height. This is simple in theory but tricky in practice the first time - and one must also locate the correct measurements front and rear.

Also, this is enough work to get in there that you may want to consider the uppers at same time.... I did everything in there. Rides like a new car now. Perfectly dampened and tight. Very glad I didn't go for the harsh poly.
 

jwest

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I changed out the front control arms and the knocking noise is still loud...is that the reason you changed yours out?

"knocking" ? A clunk is very possibly the sway bar bushing or an end link joint. Mine were worn and you could tell with wheels off the ground by tugging on the sway bar. Both front and rear were bad but also had 120,000 miles.

Same clunk on my bmw now which I put on M series sway bars about 80k ago. Glad these are super easy to access!

There's another item that can be loose, the front half shafts but they do more of a warbling while under throttle pressure, not really a clunk or knock.
 

gsxr

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So for the n00b... what are the exact symptoms / problems encountered when any of the control arms are failing or otherwise require replacement?

:dontknow:
 

Houm_WA

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It's not so much the control arms failing but the bushings that the control arms house. The symptoms are play in the suspension and a "knock" sound at low speeds over bumps. The knock can be invoked by idling along (let's say in a parking lot) and then SNAPPING the brake pedal sharply (but not necessarily stopping).
 

eckman

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At 80k miles I had to replace my lower control arm bushings due to knocking. Did so by replacing the control arm and the bushings from Rover with a specialized independent shop.
 

jwest

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It's not so much the control arms failing but the bushings that the control arms house. The symptoms are play in the suspension and a "knock" sound at low speeds over bumps. The knock can be invoked by idling along (let's say in a parking lot) and then SNAPPING the brake pedal sharply (but not necessarily stopping).

guys, the common "knock" over curb cuts etc is usually the sway bar bushings. The control arm bushings don't react the same way and don't really cause a knock because of all the connections and pivot bolts.

I am pointing this out because it's very cheap to do the sway bushings first, both in parts and labor and actually a fairly straight forward DIY whereas the control arms is a much bigger job in many aspects. The sway bushings also inherently wear out faster on most vehicles.

Same exact "knock" is on my bmw so when i checked, the sway bushings are visibly gapping which causes the knock upon hitting roadway changes.
 

Houm_WA

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jwest, to me the swaybar bushings make a different "knock" sound than the LCA bushings and the sound is invoked differently. Let's see if you agree.

Saybar bushings: usually invoked over an uneven travail over a bump where there is body roll induced and it's like a deep sound....like someone hitting a *** with a mallet. There is some bass there.

LCA bushings: more of a "clunk" that occurs going slowly over a speedbump or like I mention above, snapping the brakes sharply at slow speeds.

I've had both....I know what each sounds like. What do ya think? Any further description?
 

gmfain

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PM me and I will send a how to I did years ago. I'll try to attach it here too.

IMO
1. No poly
2. buy complete arm.
3. Base you decision on my how to. ( its a pretty big job )

Good luck.
 

patski

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Lucky8 sells control arms with orange poly bushings pre-installed. Swapping out try arms is easy. Removing the rubber bushings is a PITA.GO LUCKY 8. Do it yourself.

My local independent LR Tech said, "no way poly, terrible ride."

He pressed out/in OEM bushings and it rides like new and it's quiet again.
 

jwest

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Speaking of all that, tonight I pulled the front struts to install usually non-existent dust boots top and bottom like you see on the rear struts from the factory. Not sure why fronts don’t seem to come with them when it’s a genuine LR part.

Also putting the Rasta aluminum radiator corner guards back (not yet in the photo), then the fender liners and belly plates.

Rerouted the air lines and tucked up the washer canister.

039831CC-58DF-4ACC-A95E-3846418FC384.jpeg
 

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