LR3 with 134,000...long trip?

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bbyer

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Also take a good after market socket, breaker bar, and maybe an extra lug nut with you, for any unforeseen tire changes, I had one messed up lug nut, I guess the tire shop messed it up during the rotations.
Agree with trickle charging the battery for a week of nights before departing. Also prior to, do a before morning engine start voltage check across the battery posts for a week or so to see what the overnight battery voltage number is.

The engine will normally start with 9 volts cold, but the battery should read closer to 12 volts and not less than 11.5 VDC.

If the battery shows low after a week of trickle charging, then maybe either the battery or the alternator is weak. The 3 has a way of masking problems and then just quitting with no warning. I see one of the alternator files in the link below has over a thousand downloads so maybe it is of some value. It is usually a problem with the internal "smart" regulator that talks to the car computer rather than the battery and hence at some point, the car computer just says - do not start the engine - something dumb like that - "not within design parameters" kind of computer logic.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=3801

As to the spare lug nut, yes, and I note that at some point one of mine got wrecked by I guess my independents air wrench as I change my wheels myself the hard way but the wheels are always coming off for some reason or other at the independents.
 

PaulLR3

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I'll second Rubber Cow's suggestion about a spare brake light switch. Ours decided to fail on the George Washington Bridge during a trip from Boston to Philadelphia. Got the restricted performance and dashboard "Christmas tree of death". Was able to limp off to the next rest stop and swap out the brake switch and continue on our trip.
 

bbyer

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I'll second Rubber Cow's suggestion about a spare brake light switch. Ours decided to fail on the George Washington Bridge during a trip from Boston to Philadelphia. Got the restricted performance and dashboard "Christmas tree of death". Was able to limp off to the next rest stop and swap out the brake switch and continue on our trip.
Better yet might be to just install a new switch now and then you can forget about the potential Christmas Tree of dash warning lights for the next few years.

The link below contains files showing how to replace the switch.

The first time, it took me perhaps an hour or more, the second time, a few minutes. I see my install instructions file has over five thousand views now. Yes, the switch is a real weak spot as it affects so many systems.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5082


Note my comments re the plunger in the link below. It is about the only thing you can do wrong; also note the orientation of the old switch before you remove it just so you are not guessing. That file has over 1,800 views.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5082&pos=7
 

rs7trout

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Great points!! I've experienced the alternator failure twice-once on the 99 RR--everything lit up on the board--thought the car was going to blow up!! and then on the LR3--ended up with new battery new alternator and new starter--weird thing was that I would typically get the suspension fault a couple weeks prior to replacement--progressively got more faults and then harder to start then no start--jumped it and took it to local Rover mech. --even then it took a couple of times before ended up replacing everything mentioned!! As bbyer mentions above the LR3 alternator problem kind of masks itself!

Thanks for mentioning the brake light switch--been meaning to get around to that replacement!!

thanks again for comments!!
 

jwest

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Better yet might be to just install a new switch now and then you can forget about the potential Christmas Tree of dash warning lights for the next few years.

The link below contains files showing how to replace the switch.

any thoughts on sources or "genuine" vs oem ? I usually use Genuine unless significant savings or better design in non-genuine choices such as my front lower control arms from Meyle using a bigger ball joint while still much cheaper. Same for front struts being higher quality Billstein dampers yet much cheaper than factory

Atlantic British is the more expensive I found on many standard parts as seen here: $42 but cheapest shipping at $4 flat rate usps = $46
https://www.roverparts.com/nxt/?keywords=XKB500110

Might as well ger Genuine when you find this:

Florida dealer $38 + $12.50 = $51
https://parts.landroverpalmbeach.com/p/Brake-Light-Switch-STOPLAMP-SWITCH/48776064/XKB500110.html

Virginia Dealer $34 + $15.50 shipping = $50
https://jlrparts.checkeredflag.com/oem-parts/land-rover-stoplamp-switch-xkb500110

My usual comparison or choice for factory parts is Land Rover Merriam in Kansas City area: also $34 + $11 shipping = $45 total for the win at $1 cheaper LOL
https://landrovermerriamparts.com/p...t=xkb500110&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215719


I wouldn't normally post all this but i was curious as it can ad up on larger orders or even just knowing you have options for availability or shipping distance. I'm in WA so these are all farther away but I am guessing Atlantic British pulls off the low shipping by using their west coast warehouse. In this case, due to liking to have a standing relationship history, I'd probably just use AB again.
 

rs7trout

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Very cool!! Anything to look out for that may not be normal?
Thanks
ron
 

gabrielef

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Sorry for the necro but I’m just over 205K and I’d have no problem driving it that far. The big question is if the maintenance is up to date. If so, good to go!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

DPetty2994

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Buy a decent code reader, an ARB flat repair kit and a few spare partst:
-Serpentine belt
-Brake light switch
-the stupid T-shape coolant coupler/vent part that cracks and breaks
-spare headlight bulbs

I've done many 4K+ mile trips in my 07 that now has 165k miles on it.
The code reader is great to have....and so is windshield coverage on your insurance.


Good advice!
 

DPetty2994

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Long as you’re confident in your maintenance, I’d keep some extra fluids handy, small tool box, Brake/headlight bulbs, and ensure your spare is up to *****.

Like any car—regular maintenance is THE #1 determining factor is things are going to break/malfunction.
 

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