75,000 service interval

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vietec

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Local dealer wants just about $850 to do this service. I'm looking through the service passport and from the looks of it, most of the labor is inspecting little things on the car, engine oil change and front/rear diff fluid change. My plans are to run factory oil for the diff and Mobil one for the engine oil. (awaiting gap IID tool).

Is there anything I'm missing, or is the $500 labor I'm calculating also include other materials the passport doesn't show? I'm not a mechanic by any means but I do like to do my own maintenance work on my E46 M3 and would like to do the same for my 2011 LR4.

Also, how do I know if I have electronic unlockers? When I set it to mud mode, little green padlocks show up on my screen so I imagine I have it. I have an HSE if that makes any difference. Also wouldn't mind everyone's favorite source for these materials. Thus far for diff fluid I think Atlantic was the cheapest place I found.
 

umbertob

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Get the service done at a Land Rover indy shop if possible, dealer labor rates and parts are notoriously overpriced. The 75K service differs from the usual "glorified oil change" routine tune-up only because they will also replace your air filters, transfer case fluid and (if you have it) the rear locking diff oil. The factory recommended fluid for the rear lockers is extremely expensive - something like $80/quart through a dealer or so IIRC (you can find it for a lot less online), and you will need a couple of quarts, so I suspect your vehicle doesn't have rear lockers, or your quote would likely be above 1K from a dealer... Non locking front/rear axles aren't serviced by a dealer until 150K miles or 10 years - and the oil is way cheaper. Be careful to choose the right type if you will be doing this on your own.

The green padlock icons on MY2010 and 2011 4x4 screens aren't an indication that your car is fitted with rear lockers. We all have an open front and a center locking differential (the center padlock icon.) If you have the Heavy Duty pack with locking rear differential, the rear padlock will turn from green to red in off-road modes as the diff locks and opens automatically. If yours stays green and only the center diff icon turns red as you off-road, you have an open differential. Easiest way to check would be to look up the build specs for your VIN and see if electronic rear differential was a factory option or not. Or, slide under the car and see if there are electrical wires going to the actuator solenoid on the rear differential case...
 
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catman

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The dealer is priced "high" for that service because they have a flat time allotment for everything included in that service, it is not done as a time and material service. Checking a bulb may have a 5 minute allotment, so if it is fine, it takes 10 seconds, but you pay for 5 minutes. I do not know what the total time allotment is if you add it all up, but when I tried to "modify" the 105,000 miles service at the dealer for my LR3, I was told it cannot be changed, it is a comprehensive service. They were a little surprised when I decided to come pick it up and take it to my Indy shop instead. The indy shop could not for the life of him figure out how they were charging so much for labor to do those checks.
 

vietec

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Get the service done at a Land Rover indy shop if possible

Easiest way to check would be to look up the build specs for your VIN and see if electronic rear differential was a factory option or not. Or, slide under the car and see if there are electrical wires going to the actuator solenoid on the rear differential case...
I haven't done enough digging in the area to find a good Land Rover Indie shop. I haven't had good luck with the BMW indie shop so I've always DIYd (they were charging more than dealer rates)

Thanks for the tip, I'll crawl under my vic and see what I can see.

The indy shop could not for the life of him figure out how they were charging so much for labor to do those checks.
Yeah, a lot of the inspections I saw was "inspect wipers." I've dealt with overpriced dealers before, the BMW dealers wanted to charge me $130 per ignition coil, and $150 in labor to swap them. I went home and ordered 6 OEM coils, and replaced them within 15 minutes.
 

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