AC went out!

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RoverGuy7

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You need to be careful using a standard gauge with this system, as it is a variable displacement compressor, that is always running at least a little. It is a decent indicator of having anything in the system when the engine is off, but even a full set of gauges, and good understanding of an AC system can make you think there is a problem when it is working as designed.
 

Mack73

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Just to throw my experience in there, I just had my AC repaired- had a slow leak from a failed o-ring on the high pressure side of the system.

Replacement o-ring and a reacharge and I'm back in business.
 

cannonball55

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I just had my AC system trouble shot after weeks of no AC and failing to find the cause myself. The dealership found that the rear AC lines are leaking, and want almost $1400 to repair it. They say the lines arent damaged they're just leaking though the service advisor isnt sure from where. I'm going to have them show me where it's leaking from.

So my questions are:
If the lines do need to be replaced is it a huge undertaking?
Are there o-rings or packings that can be replaced if it's leaking from a connection?
In regards to servicing this system, is it as simple as using the ac recharge bottles from an auto parts store (napa, autozone, etc...)?
 

e24kgold

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AC out....Sort of

So my AC has been working on and off. In the morning it seems fine, then middle of the day when I start it, it is blowing cold, but there is a loud blowing noise when I accelerate coming from the engine area. This noise goes away when I cut the compressor off. I have no clue
 

jeanmarcb83

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Ac was blowing cold air then suddenly war air

I have a 2005 Lr3, it happens many time that my ac was blowing cold air then after a while it start to blow warm or normal air. So i should off it and then turn the ignition off wait a while then turning it on so it blow cold air again and work normal. Does anybody have an idea about this problem?
 

jeanmarcb83

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I have a 2005 Lr3, it happens many time that my ac was blowing cold air then after a while it start to blow warm or normal air. So i should off it and then turn the ignition off wait a while then turning it on so it blow cold air again and work normal. Does anybody have an idea about this problem?
 

bbyer

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may be just low on refrigerant

The easy suggestion is just that your system is low on refrigerant and needs a top up charge.

Pretty much every spring, I top up my system - not too much leaks out over the previous year but it always takes a pound or so.

The link below is to a number of files that explains how the system is supposed to operate. As usual, it is not like the simple systems of the past.

In our case, there is no compressor clutch as you may know it but there is a frangible link for when the compressor does seize; additionally the compressor never totally shuts down as refrigerant is always being circulated thru the pipes but in varying amounts depending upon conditions.

http://bit.ly/1dEULOt

__________________
 

roverman

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Mine went out in my 2005 for an entire weekend in 2012. It has worked fine ever since. Have no idea what went wrong or why it still works now...
 

dochummer

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My AC just went out about a week ago. Started with a ticking noise, and then a clunk the next day, and then no A/C. I suspect the compressor is out (140k miles on an 05 LR3). The shop agreed it was the compressor but also says that because it is a clutchless system, that there is a possibility that the compressor sent metal fragments into the lines and possibly damaged sensors. If that's the case, then they are quoting $3.5k to fix it. He wants to take it apart to see how bad the compressor is, if it's not that bad then just $1.5k to fix it. Both fixes involve a new OEM compressor. I've seen remans out there for pretty cheap, but the shop doesn't recommend them... Any suggestions or opinions on this?
 

Airstream345

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My AC just went out about a week ago. Started with a ticking noise, and then a clunk the next day, and then no A/C. I suspect the compressor is out (140k miles on an 05 LR3). The shop agreed it was the compressor but also says that because it is a clutchless system, that there is a possibility that the compressor sent metal fragments into the lines and possibly damaged sensors. If that's the case, then they are quoting $3.5k to fix it. He wants to take it apart to see how bad the compressor is, if it's not that bad then just $1.5k to fix it. Both fixes involve a new OEM compressor. I've seen remans out there for pretty cheap, but the shop doesn't recommend them... Any suggestions or opinions on this?

I had what sounds like a similar failure (clicking sounds for a few trips and then no AC). My turned out to be the disintegration of the clutch/pulley and therefore was external to the compressor. I found what looked like rubber mounts on the skid plate along with the front metal plate from the compressor.

I ended up doing a DIY repair. Thanks to another member here and on another LR site bought an Amazon.com: Denso 471-1564 A/C Compressor: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ukqr5CrkL.@@AMEPARAM@@51ukqr5CrkL for $330 USD.

I also bought a new high/low pressure switch and a drier.

Replacement was a HUGE job (10 hours) as the drier required removal of the front grill, bumper, etc and the compressor is about as tight up in there as you can imagine.

AC works really really well now.

Assuming an Indy was faster at this job I could see a $500 compressor, $100 drier and about 6 - 8 hours of labor for the job so $1500 doesn't seem unreasonable.
 

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