Alarm going off

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teamfalcon

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2008 LR3

I also had the 'bonnet open' msg and the alarm would go off whenever I locked the Rover. Thanks to the members here, it took me 5 min to unplug bonnet switch and add a piece of foil and the 'bonnet open' msg was gone.

Standing next to the fender, taking picture toward the front. The switch is underneath the left side,passenger side, hood latch (standing in front of Rover). Unplug the latch where the thin wire are and the flashlight is hitting.
foil2.jpg


Then add a piece of foil and you're done. It worked for me. No more 'bonnet open' msg.
foil.jpg

I'm back. had to replace the foil. This would have been my 3rd time but I broke the connector. Not the hood switch, but the electrical connector, the piece of plastic that locks it to the hood switch. So now the connector doesn't lock into place.

Can anyone help with the part number of the electrical cable for 2008 LR3?

This was the last thing I did during a long saturday that involved washing my RV, rearranging garage, etc. I could have kicked myself. :(

Thanks!
 
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bbyer

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connectors are problems

Can anyone help with the part number of the electrical cable for 2008 LR3? Thanks!
I think obtaining the connector separately is going to be a problem.

I tried to purchase a few pins for an electrical connector from my dealer and they act like they do not have any. I expect that in the shop, there is a kit with a thousand different electrical bits, but as none of the bits have part numbers so they act like it does not exist.

About all I can think of is find a 3 in a junk yard, see if you can get them to cut off a foot long length including that connector and then you figure out how to remove the conductor pins so that the connector is separated from the wires.

Then you use that knowledge to remove the conductors from your own 3 and attach the new connector. Make certain you draw a picture of the wire locations first - I think there are only two wires to mix up.

What might work at a junk yard is try to buy the used bonnet switch and ask them to not disconnect the plug but to leave a foot of so of cable attached. That way you get a replacement switch that probably is still good and solve the connector problem as well - and be money ahead of buying a new switch.
 

toddjb122

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I recently got hit with this problem as well and as luck would have it a Google searched turned up this and many other threads on the problem.

I never received any bonnet open alarms, but I think the problem has been solved with the paper clip, for now.

Was going to order the part but in this thread alone I see 4 different part numbers listed? Marriam has the first one listed for $17.56 with $11 shipping, but I also see it on ebay as the YUE500150 number, for $20 and $3 shipping. They both look the same to me.

Any tips before I buy this part?


- Part Number: LR041431

- The part number for the hood open sensor was LR002794 but there appears to be a new number, YUE500150

- The part the dealer gave me was LR024358.
 

johnsoax

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I've had the issue once or twice.

I usually just open and close each door, the hood and the trunk. Slamming each one closed really. Then the problem goes away.
 

toddjb122

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In the past couple of weeks there have been 3 occasions where I was walking out of a store or away from my car and the alarm went off. In each case, I figured I must have accidently hit my remote button and by the third time I figured my key fob must be getting old and the panic button is more sensitive....

...when my alarm was going off at 4:30AM with my FOB resting comfortably on the dresser I knew this was not the case. :)

Since I use all of my doors regularly, I figured it was not a lightly closed door. Has to be something else. I'm hoping it was the hood sensor! Guess I'll see if I hear it again....
 

toddjb122

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Okay, I'm brining this alive again to ask a question. My fix above lasted two months and now the alarm is going off again. I have not tried shorting out the pins again with a paperclip to confirm that's what it is, but I suspect it is.

Has anyone had this come back? Dirty contacts? Bad sensor? Seems odd that the first sensor lasted 180,000 miles and this one would only last 5,000.

Appreciate any tips. Otherwise I'll stick in another paperclip later this week.... (maybe leave it there)
 

bbyer

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Any messages on display?

Are you getting any messages on the middle display? I assume not and yes, you may as well short out the bonnet sensor in order to eliminate that question.

It may be another door sensor or the rear hatch or wiring to the sensors.

I guess I am not being too helpful but the attached link has files within related to the alarm system and associated wiring diagrams.

http://www.bit.ly/147Vmma
 

toddjb122

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Thanks.

No, I do not see any notes in my dash display.

I know it is going off because sometimes I catch it going off and when I unlock my car the lights flash 5 times (I think) if there was an alarm activation. I always wonder how many people I've ****** off before I realized this was happening! LOL Now I just park in the back of the lots...
 

bbyer

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Tilt sensor in Europe

The question is of course what is setting off your alarm.

You may as short out the bonnet sensor but the odds are it is OK.

In Europe there is a tilt sensor and vibration sensor in the alarm system as well an interior volumetric sensor but I think none of that applies to North America.

With the engine at idle and in park, you might partly open each door/hatch/ bonnet, one opening at a time, and see if you get a door open signal on the dash display. If so, then the door ajar circuits are probably OK.

Also try the panic alarm button on your key fob and see if it is working.

The trouble shooting is going to be a trial and error thing until you detect a pattern.
 

Trynian

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I just took my switch and cut it near the plug and soldered the contacts together. Then sealed that end. Eventually when I was sure that was the issue, I just ordered the replacement switch and installed it.

You can make a jumper with a paper clip or even 2 spade connectors. If it is not the hood then it is most likely a door, which is harder to track down and harder to change. If not he hood then the easiest thing to do is to have a shop scan the last alarms triggers. I think it stores the last 10 or 15 triggers so one can see a pattern.
 

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