Alarm going off

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toddjb122

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Take it to the dealer. They can read what the last 5 alarm triggers were. Some indies can also but i don't know what system they use.

Hmmm...my mechanic (who used to work at the dealer) claimed the LR3 doesn't store that. He had a pretty nice system that hooked up and showed him in real time what all the sensors were showing. No alarm history though.

Do you know for certain that they can tell this with a LR computer? I'm asking because I really hate my dealer and avoid going to that service counter at all costs... time, inconvenience, aggravation, cost, etc.
 

toddjb122

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At this point I'm just venting, I don't know what the problem is...

It used to be when my alarm went off I'd also occasionally see a "bonnet open" notice (which let me know it was the hood latch sensor) or "right rear door open" notice, (which told me the kids didn't slam that door when they shut it). Now it just goes off...not often, every few days.

I don't mind if it goes off in a large parking lot, out there by itself. I know if that occurred because when I unlock my car the lights flash differently. BUT, once a week it happens in somebody's driveway. That's not good.

I'm at a loss...don't know where to start. I know some of you suggested taking it to the dealer to have them look up the code, but my mechanic claims he has similar equipment and doesn't see it. He can walk around the vehicle with his computer connected and see it note whenever a door is opened.

Does the dealer have different equipment that will see details on the last alarm activation, no matter how long ago it occurred? I really hate going to my dealer so I'd need to know this is a 100% capability of their equipment to put me through the pain of dealing with them.

My mechanic thinks I should just replace the rear door sensor, as that is the last note I got from my display. He does see those door sensors degrade, so it isn't an uncommon repair. Thing is, I really don't know if the kids just didn't close the door well, or that door needs slammed because the sensor is going. It'd be about a $350 experiment to have that sensor replaced.

Anyway, I'm mostly just venting but if you have advice, I'll take it.

So one last question - is there a way to turn my alarm off?
I want to lock the car, I don't want any alarm if a door is opened.

If I can pull a fuse somewhere or turn it off in a menu, that'd be great.

I guess I can disconnect my horn...but that seems short sighted.
 

bbyer

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probably experiment

I think I would be replacing the door sensor. I would tend to think there is something wrong there.

With my 3, I have never had to slam any door shut; closing the doors has always been a gentle procedure as the closing always has a solid feel.

I am trying to think back to the Car Configuration File, as to if it has a line with regards to shutting off the alarm.

I forget, however I do recall lines related to the various system variations - that is Euro, USA etc, hence I think there may be a "switch" that would turn the system off.

I believe the door ajar, interior lights on, and the alarm sensors are the same physical sensor and it is software that splits the signals apart.

If you have access to something like a GAP or Blackbox, then you could look at the CCF and determine if the alarm can be separately turned off or not; otherwise, I think I would gamble with replacing the door sensor.
 

toddjb122

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Good tip, thanks. I guess if they have to slam that door to get it to close...then that's a good place to start as any.
 

bbyer

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fault codes per the dealer T4

I found the below related to fault codes accessible to a dealer T4.

If you have a known door concern, you are probably better to spend the money fixing a real problem before you give money to the dealer for a fishing expedition.


The alarm stops immediately and the anti-theft alarm system returns to the armed mode on receipt of a lock command from the remote handset.

The CJB ignores the current alarm trigger(s) and only considers the remainder of the alarm trigger sources as valid inputs for a further alarm.

The ignored alarm trigger(s) are reinstated as valid alarm trigger
sources after they remain in an untriggered state for a minimum of 1 second. For example, the anti-theft alarm system is armed in the volumetric mode when a door is opened and triggers the alarm. Pressing the lock button on the remote handset returns the anti-theft alarm system to the alarm mode and causes the CJB to ignore the inputs from the ajar
switch of the open door and the volumetric sensor. One second after the door closes, the CJB considers the ajar switch input as valid again. After a further 30 seconds settling time, the CJB also considers the volumetric sensor input as valid again.

The CJB stores the last ten alarm triggers in a trigger log, which can be accessed over the medium speed CAN bus using T4. The trigger log can only be cleared when the system is disarmed. Each trigger entry contains a number that corresponds to the trigger source.

Alarm Trigger Sources

If an alarm is triggered during an armed cycle, when the anti-theft alarm system is subsequently disarmed the CJB pulses the hazard flashers at 200 milliseconds on, 200 milliseconds off, for 3 seconds.

Delivery Mode

When the vehicle is in the delivery mode, the anti-theft alarm system is disabled.

Diagnostics

The CJB monitors the communication links with the BBUS, the tilt sensor and the volumetric sensor. If any of the communications links fail, the CJB stores a related fault code, which can be accessed with T4.

Diagnostic Fault Codes

Trigger No. Description
0 No trigger stored
1 Driver door ajar switch
2 Front passenger door ajar switch
3 Rear LH door ajar switch
4 Rear RH door ajar switch
5 Tailgate ajar switch
6 Hood ajar switch
7 Ignition switch
8 External key lock turned to unlock
9 Tilt sensor
10 Volumetric sensor

 

bbyer

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Alarm System pdf

This is the 9 page pdf that relates specifically to the alarm system.


http://www.disco3. co. uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=3813&pos=0

Note the two blank spaces to be removed from the copy and paste link above.
 

kwlr3

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I had a similar issues with the alarm going off. It took until year 7 or 8 of ownership before I had to replace the bonnet sensor but I have also had to replace both front and the left side rear passenger door latches. Sometime in 2006 or 2007 (maybe later) there was a redesign. One way to tell if it's a door latch is to lock the doors with the key fob and then try to open each (from the outside). If any door opens, which mine did, the alarm will go off. After I ordered the new latch and held new and old side by side, I could clearly see how some levers that worked the lock were redesigned. Basically, the electric mechanism would not lock the door. Why that would cause the alarm to go off randomly I could not determine but it did solve the problem. To summarize, I have had four separate occasions of the alarm going off. Three times caused by door alarms and once by the bonnet.

Somewhere on this forum I posted about how to replace the latches. The drivers door takes some finger dexterity because of the extra cable for the emergency key but the others are not that hard.
 

Bostonian

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Gents: Update on my end. Replacing my battery last fall temporarily stopped the random alarm issue. It started back up again and has now been fixed with the aluminum foil in the circuit, shown with pictures on the first couple of pages. Only a few days since fix but no alarm since then. Note that would get the bonnet open message only very occasionally, and as described by others, my right rear door is always one that takes a good hard slam to shut it fully although I keep it lubricated. No idea if these things are related but we'll see.
 

bbyer

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fully charged battery fixes alot of things

A new or fully charged battery can fix alot of things on a LR, at least for awhile anyway. The systems seem to require near 14 volts to keep them happy and less than 12.5 makes them very unhappy.

A good first attempt at a fix for near any problem is to put the battery on a trickle charger every night for a week or so just to get the battery back up to near a 100% state of charge. The best the alternator and charging system can to is about 80% and that is with a full day of highway driving.

Re the tinfoil trick, it works well, but I would use the silence to give you time to order a new bonnet switch, or I guess, just bypass it.

I tend however to regard the bonnet open warning as a safeguard against it not be closed properly. An improperly shut bonnet can reveal itself at speed as a bonnet wrapped around the windscreen. New aluminum bonnets are not cheap plus I expect the drivers seat would need a shampoo.

The right rear door may just need a not so simple latch adjustment.
 

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