Amber suspension fault, turns red at 25 mph! HELP!

[hollygcape]

Alright, so I have a 2005 Land Rover LR3 V8, 110k miles. About a month ago the car completely dropped, started throwing an amber suspension light, bounced all over the place so we took it to a local dealer, apparently it was the compressor and a small air leak. Both were fixed. On our way to the dealer the radiator blew (just our luck), so the car was towed and that was also replaced. About a week later the car started overheating (again, my our luck), leaking coolant, and throwing the amber suspension light again. Turned out to be the water pump gasket, that was replaced. Once the water pump was fixed, not even 2 days later the LR3 started throwing a RED suspension fault: do not exceed 30 mph. That next day the front dropped and the back stayed raised. Now when you start the car an amber suspension light immediately comes on. Once you hit 25 mph it throws a red suspension fault: do not exceed 30 mph. We checked over the LR3 ourselves and found that the front valve block was broken. We replaced it. The car then raised to normal height, acted fine for about 10 minutes and then threw an amber suspension light. Not even 30 minutes later the front sank back down. The car is obviously unstable due to the back being over raised and the front not raising at all. It's bouncing again, I assume that's also because it's unstable. Trying to wrap my head around what else it could possibly be. It isn't showing any codes and the 4x4 info menu isn't showing that a sensor is out. The only thing I can think of is another air leak or an air bag. HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT! I have googled my life away and can't find where any one else has had this problem or similar.

 

[Houm_WA]

Sounds like it needs a fresh EAS Calibration.

 

[hollygcape]

Sounds like it needs a fresh EAS Calibration.

So after an EAS calibration will the front raise? It's as if it's not getting enough pressure to raise the front and hold the weight of the car. I did an air leak test yesterday and found nothing. Also tried jacking it up and seeing if it would fill with air and wouldn't. When I undo the front valve box air pushes out immediately as if the front is getting air but just not raising. I also unplugged the battery last night and today after reattaching it the amber light doesn't come on immediately in extended mode, but does in normal mode. It's all wigging me out. I don't know what could possible be wrong.

 

[Houm_WA]

My statement about an EAS re-cal being needed was due to this symptom:

"Once you hit 25 mph it throws a red suspension fault: do not exceed 30 mph."

If you have an amber fault and can't lift the car then it could be the compressor.

 

[hollygcape]

Except the back is lifted. So it would have to be something that controls only the front suspension, right? We replaced the compressor 3 weeks ago. But it was a rushed job, the guy even told us, "I have already stayed an hour past what I was supposed to and didn't have time to check the other hoses. Hopefully it doesn't drop on you any time soon and works like it should." The truck drove normal for a week and then front end dropped. We inspected the car ourselves and saw where the front valve box was broken and so we replaced it assuming that was the issue. It lifted almost immediately after cranking the car after the front valve installation, then the front dropped back down within a 20 minute time frame as if nothing had been corrected. 2 days ago we put the car up on jacks trying to get the front to fill with air long enough to do the water bottle test for an air leak. The front wouldn't fill or raise at all. We then disconnected the battery overnight and saw no difference. When we reconnected the battery, yesterday, the suspension fault no longer comes on immediately if the car is put in extended ride mode. In normal mode or access it comes on immediately. It's mind boggling to say the least.

 

[Houm_WA]

Holly, if the compressor seems to be functioning and can lift the vehicle without faulting mid-way (meaning, while raising) then it's probably fine. If the compressor and valve block have been replaced then let's rule them out.

The behavior you are describing and the photos still point to a calibration, to me. Even with the back lifted. If you are going to keep this vehicle for a while then I suggest your get an IIDTool. You'd be done with this by now, if you had one.