Anyone done their own spark plugs?

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wthammett

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Just changed mine. Here's the tips and tricks I used. Info only.

1) Remove plastic cover (4x 6mm quick connects)

2) Remove heat shield on drivers side (1 screw)

3) Remove shield on drivers side covering spark plug coils (pulls off - 2 points on contact)

4) Remove all the connectors to the coils (4 per side) I used a sunglass repair screw driver to lift the tab and a paint can key to slide the connectors off (for the ones I couldn't do by hand - which were 5 of 8)

5) remove 1 bolt per coil and lift coil out (4 per side)

6) Last coil by firewall is tricky to remove (I turned it about 180 and was able to clear the HVAC line (yes, it rubbed))

7) I had to use two extenders to get to the spark plugs to remove and install them (for clearance/accessibility)

8) Remove plugs - hand tighten new plugs and then torque down to spec

9) Put on coils over plugs

10) Connect connectors

11) Tighten coil to spec (1 bolt - 4 per side)

12) Replace shield on driver's side

13) Driver's side is done

14) Passenger's side

15) Remover shield (pulls off - two points of contact)

16) Undo clips for coolant hoses (2 clamps)

17) Remove all the connectors to the coils (4 per side) I used a sunglass repair screw driver to lift the tab and a paint can key to slide the connectors off (for the ones I couldn't do by hand - which were 5 of 8). The one by the firewall I turned to the left a little to help the connector slide off after the next step.

18) remove 1 bolt per coil and lift coil out (4 per side)

19) To remove coils I had to manipulate the coolant lines a little.

20) I had to use two extenders to get to the spark plugs to remove and install them (for clearance/accessibility)

21) Remove plugs - hand tighten new plugs and then torque down to spec

22) Put on coils over plugs

23) Connect connectors - the coil will have to be turned a little to get the one near the firewall back on (In my case)

24) Tighten coil to spec (1 bolt - 4 per side)

25) Replace shield on driver's side

26) Place and secure engine cover on (4 quick connects)

Estimated time 1-4 hours.

This is for info only - consult the manuals for specific instructions. Good luck!


Just wanted to say thanks for instructions as this post was spot on, but in full disclosure the space you have to work is extremely limited, its real tough to get your hands, fingers and tools in the spaces in front of the coils. I had two tools that would fit the star hex nut holding the coil on - I dropped both while working on the first coil and neither fell to the floor, I'm still looking for them. Point is have plenty of time and patience before attempting and small hands are a plus. Good luck.
 

ktm525

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I was able to remove/replace coils without disconnecting them. Disconnecting the coils and removing the drivers side coil near the firewall are the toughest.
 

ktm525

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and on the passenger side I had to disconnect all 4 coils and move the wiring loom to gain access to the torx holding the coils. Passenger side bank is tougher IMO.
 

jpjp

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Had my LR4 serviced last week, tranny flush, diff and transfer case, fluids, belts and topend service which cleans throttle body and injectors. As of now I feel like I have a new vehicle, I don't even know the engine is running at idle, it's amazing. As for plugs I opted for the factory brand, they are expensive but will last another 100k. I don't recommend replacing if you think your car is idling poorly, probably nothing wrong with them, wait until 100k.

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What did all that run you and did you do it at the dealer or an indy?
Thanks!
 

Bogwhoppit

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I just completed an oil change (93500 miles), but while I was in there took out a plug to inspect ready for 100K service, and it looked like it was almost new, no erosion at all on the contacts.
 

billj214

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What did all that run you and did you do it at the dealer or an indy?
Thanks!
Been awhile but went to independent shop, anyone can do it. Don't remember how much it cost although you can ask local shops for injector flush or top end service.

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