Battery Life

[Quijote]

I've been wondering about this myself as my car is 1-2 months away from its 4 year production anniversary. So far, zero issues though. It still has under 27k miles.

Can I buy my own interstate battery and install it, or must the dealer do some special programming that cannot be done with the IIDTool?

 

[ryanjl]

You can do it with the IID tool. It's just a matter of telling the car's computer the battery's specifications.

 

[djkaosone]

Please do yourself a favor and change out the battery asap if you have any inclination that its bad.

Before I went on my family vacation, I had Firestone test my battery and it tested good on ALL accounts (it was around 75 degrees). During vacation in Palm Springs, all the lights flickered while driving about 30-35 mph and the rig died as I pulled into a parking lot (it was about 115 degrees).

Battery issues for the LR4 is no joke and it sucks to be stranded. The AAA battery that I was forced to buy ended up being junk and was replaced 2 days ago under warranty. The AAA battery was less than 1 year old and wouldn't hold a charge above 64%.

I highly recommend getting portable jumper with rated CCA 600A or more to jump start the truck in desperate times. AAA takes forever when it could just take 2 minutes to jump start. I got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U0MH5V0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You can read my review on it.

Since then I am extra paranoid and installed a secondary battery with a smart WirthCo 150A battery isolator. Basically, I can push a button and the secondary battery can run parallel with your starting battery to jump start or take over the electrical system for the truck for the duration of the truck being ON.

Again, battery issues on this bad boy is no joke. If you think it's bad, got it tested and it's good, and its still not what you think it is, change it. Don't get caught off guard.

 

[jptruck]

I replaced it at a local service shop (Interstate battery) and all was well for my 1,000 mile weekend jaunt (dropping kids at camp). No residual gremlins.

I would recommend replacement (proactively) to anyone that has a battery with more than 4 years of use. When these puppies go, they go.

 

[umbertob]

I had Firestone test my battery and it tested good on ALL accounts (it was around 75 degrees). During vacation in Palm Springs, all the lights flickered while driving about 30-35 mph and the rig died as I pulled into a parking lot (it was about 115 degrees).

That doesn't sound like a battery problem... A bad alternator or faulty / loose connections usually cause those types of electrical problems when your vehicle is already running. Perhaps your original battery was done and the AAA replacement was junk as well (it also depends on how many miles you drive in a year... I have never had an original battery lasting more than a year or two, but I do put about 30/35K miles per year on my cars), but in your shoes I'd look for something else causing two seemingly good batteries to die so suddenly and prematurely - a bad alternator would be my first suspect by your description.

 

[djkaosone]

That doesn't sound like a battery problem... A bad alternator or faulty / loose connections usually cause those types of electrical problems when your vehicle is already running.

You're absolutely correct. There was more to the story. Yes, the alternator wasn't generating enough power to the electrical system and battery. Ultimately, killing the original battery. After the AAA battery was installed and I was back from vacation, the dealership deemed the alternator was faulty and replaced it under warranty.

After the dealer replaced alternator and started the truck, the battery died instantly. It was less than 2 months old from it's born date and it died. It wasn't holding a charge after changing out the alternator. AAA came out to check it and it allegedly passed with flying colors. It wasn't until 2 days ago or 9 months later to find out that it's on its way out with the constant "Battery is low start your engine" light kept coming ON. AAA came out, tested the battery and tested "good". When the AAA tech walked past the driver's seat and saw the lights for himself, he replaced it under its 3 year warranty.

Just saying, you can't trust a battery test machine. My simple test was charging my battery with a Schumacher SSC-1500A-CA. After 2 hours it wouldn't get past 64%, so I knew something was definitely wrong with it and made the call.

 

[cperez]

I replaced it at a local service shop (Interstate battery) and all was well for my 1,000 mile weekend jaunt (dropping kids at camp). No residual gremlins.

I would recommend replacement (proactively) to anyone that has a battery with more than 4 years of use. When these puppies go, they go.

Great to hear you had a worry-free trip. Nothing better.

Just curious-- did the local service shop reset your battery monitor module for you? Wasn't clear from your post if the local place was an LR dealer or indie shop specializing in LRs...

 

[jptruck]

Great to hear you had a worry-free trip. Nothing better.

Just curious-- did the local service shop reset your battery monitor module for you? Wasn't clear from your post if the local place was an LR dealer or indie shop specializing in LRs...

I have no idea. Was an indie shop. What the hell is a battery monitor module?

 

[cperez]

I have no idea. Was an indie shop. What the hell is a battery monitor module?

My very basic understanding is that when you install a new battery, resetting the BMM "tells" your Rover that it has a fresh battery. This allows voltage-sensitive systems to recalibrate to the new levels and operate properly/efficiently.

 

[ktm525]

1) Replaced OEM battery with the Interstate Megatron plus. Never re calibrated the BMM and everything is OK two years on. I have replaced batteries on all three of my former and current LRs with no issues.


2) Yes heat kills batteries, cold just reduces their effectiveness
3) The interstate is a good replacement