Crank Shaft Position Sensor installed - STARTS GOOD

Discussion in 'Articles' started by leej, Feb 27, 2010.

  1. leej

    leej Member

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    I installed the new crankshaft position sensor, and I believe my problem is solved.

    I'm certainly no mechanic or expert, but below is some info on my experience. Also, here is a link to a short you tube video I found on replacing the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) on a Discovery 2; unfortunately this video does not address unplugging and plugging the connector back which is the most difficult part in my opinion (note: this is not my video, but I did find it helpful):

    YouTube- D2 CPS install

    I put the Discovery up on ramps to have better access to the crankshaft sensor (opposite the starter). I did not drop the exhaust as some others have suggested.

    From underneath laying on a creeper, I removed the two bolts holding the cover using a 7mm socket, and then I removed the two sensor nuts using 8mm socket, and there was a spacer that slid off each bolt as well. Then I simply wiggled the old sensor out. All of this was pretty easy with no real problems.

    Removing the connector was a different story. It took me a while to even figure out a way to get to this. Note, I have medium/average size hands (if my hands were any bigger, I'm not sure I could have done this at all), The connector is attached to a small bracket that is open on one side (I could see the bracket from underneath the truck). From the top of the car (standing on a small stool) under the hood, I could feel the connector with my hand slid down the fire wall just behind the manifold. By feel, I slid the connector out of the bracket (it is hard to see from the top), and then struggled with one hand to "pinch" the release on the plastic connector, and the other hand to pull the sensor wire connector out. After several unsuccessful attempts and much frustration, I was successful. To connect the new sensor, I continued from the top (the sensor was not yet installed, I wanted to get the connectors plugged in first before installing the sensor to give me some extra play while trying to plug the connectors in). I have seen other suggestions of putting the new crankshaft sensor connector plug into the bracket, and then plugging the harness plug into the sensor connector (using the bracket to hold the sensor connector) - I could not accomplish this, but maybe this is the easier method. I held the harness connector against something on the engine with one finger (couldn't really see what it was against), and used my other fingers and other had to push the sensor connector into the harness connector and somehow I got lucky and they snapped together. It took another ten minutes to get the connected connectors back into the bracket that holds them (apparently the bracket slides in between a groove where the two connectors meet (if this makes any sense)).

    Once the new sensor was connected, I got back underneath the truck which was on ramps (plastic ramps are great and sure beat the old metal ones), and wiggled the new sensor in place, slid on the spacers and installed the nuts, and then the cover with bolts. Again, installing this sensor and cover was pretty easy, it was the connector that was the problem.

    Total job was about an hour and a half. Most of this was due to the connector, and that it was very cold and my hands simply got numb (its hard to feel around an engine when you can't feel your fingertips).

    I have started it about 10 times since in various situations (cold, warm, and hot) with no problems, and I assume all is good and that my problems was a failing sensor.

    Thanks to everyone who helped!

    Lee
    00 D2 (that starts consistently now)
     
  2. blue rangerover

    blue rangerover New Member

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    How can u trouble shoot crank sensor my 04 rr wont start pressure is on the enjector need help
     
  3. CGHowell2

    CGHowell2 New Member

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    Thanks LeeJ. I agree, no one mentions the hardest part of the job. I've been trying for an hour to get the CPS connector free from the harness plug. Going to try your method in a moment but want to say thanks for the post.
     
  4. Stripe

    Stripe Member

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    I just did this last night and the the trick I used, after first removing the cover and then pulling the sensor our, to remove the connector from the bracket was to use a 1.5 foot angled pry bar and a screwdriver of the same length. The pry bar has a 1 inch length flat tip that is at an angle.

    I used the screwdriver to push the tab holding the old connector in the harness. Then I used the pry bar to slide the connectors out of the slot.

    As leej says, skinny arms and small hands win this fight if you do not drop the exhaust. I was able to disconnect the sensor by pulling down on the wires. Using the metal harness as a back brace and gently pulling on the old sensor, I used the long flathead screwdriver to release the clip holding the connectors together and it came loose.

    Keeping the upper connector in the harness I then inserted the new sensor in place then used my fingers to hold then push up on the connector until it was fully seated into place. I then just wiggled the lower connector into place the way it was made to be.

    TIP: When pulling the sensor, be sure to remove the spacer bushings one at a time so as to not lose them..

    Stripe
     
  5. ruebush

    ruebush New Member

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    Crankshaft Sensor

    Morning,

    I just had this replaced at the dealer yesterday. Any idea on the average life of this sensor? It was a pretty costly repair, and I'd like to be set for awhile.

    Thanks.
     
  6. ruebush

    ruebush New Member

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    Didn't see my other question post. Basically just wanted to know how long a crankshaft sensor usually holds up, or if this is always a crap shoot.
     
  7. corbonzo

    corbonzo New Member

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    crankshaft sensor gasket is required

    Ruebush, i paid a shadetree mechanic to install a crank sensor when mine left me in the driveway, no spark, no fuel, no rpm.it lasted less than 2000 miles. I did the next one myself, and realized (from disco mike, i think) that there was no gasket to protect (i'm guessing) the electronic portion of the sensor from the part that goes inside the flywheel housing and takes on oil. I had just done my head gaskets, and that little gasket came with my set. I installed it correctly this time, and am expecting it to last indefinitely, or at least 30,000 miles. We'll see. I also dumped the little bracket that held the connector. Made assembly/disassembly much easier, if in case i do have to do this little ditty again.
     
  8. london903

    london903 Member

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    2002 Discovery 2

    Lee,

    Thanks, Through trial an error, I installed the crankshaft position sensor on my Disco SE Series. I followed your suggestions and accessed the connection from the top. Again, you need small to medium hands because the harness to the connector is very short. It's impossible to get two hands between the firewall and the engine. I used a hook made from a hanger to grab and hold the harness to disconnect and to reconnect the sensor

    My DISCO front pipes left and right are one unit. So, even though I disconnected the driver side pipe where the sensor is located, there was not enough flex to drop the pipe from its bolt. To complete the uninstall and reinstall I had to use a low profile ratchet, and tweezers to remove and replace the spacers. For the top bolt on the mud guard, I had to use a screw driver on the end of the 7mm socket because the bolt was not reachable to hand tighten before using the ratchet.

    All toll, it took me 4 hours to complete the job. If I have to do it again, I now know how to approach it. It should be a one hour job at best.

    My DISCO starts every time with no stalls so far. I have also noticed that the engine runs a little smoother.

    Tony
     

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