Engine oil analysis results on 2010 LR4 V8

Discussion in 'LR4' started by gsxr, Oct 4, 2017.

  1. spawnywhippet

    spawnywhippet Active Member

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    re the dirty valves, I often add seafoam to my oil about 100 miles before an oil change to flush the engine. It seems to get rid of any sludge and carbon build ups pretty well.

    I had an analysis on my 12 LR4 with 105k miles with 7k miles on the oil and all the numbers were in range.
     
  2. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

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    Do tell how adding a treatment to your engine oil is going to clean the backside of the intake valves which is the concern here for DI engines.
     
  3. spawnywhippet

    spawnywhippet Active Member

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    I also add it to the fuel....
     
  4. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

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    Exactly so it never touches the backside of the valves since this is a DI engine.
     
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  5. Quijote

    Quijote Full Access Member

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    I figure I'd add my first oil analysis report. Car was manufactured in August 2013. This was the 4th oil change, done in November, about a month after warranty expired. Up until then , I have always used the LR-spec'ed Castrol Professional OE 5W-20 oil. This is my baseline analysis. I will keep track going forward with the Mobil 1 EP 5W-20 oil I put in last month. I should add that the LR4 sees city-style driving (2/3) and a few long distance trips (1/3)

    Overall, not bad I guess. LR4 oil analysis.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017
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  6. mbw

    mbw Full Access Member

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    I was doing a little reading on mobil1 vs mobil1 EP. What made you decide to go with EP? (Im on the regular mobil1 now, but i'd consider EP if its beneficial)
     
  7. gsxr

    gsxr Active Member

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    Mobil-1 EP (Extended Protection) is a "true" synthetic with Group IV/V base stocks, and is acceptable for use with extended drain intervals (10k-15kmi, approximately). If using a Mobil product for the LR4 V8, the EP would be highly preferred. This isn't the place to save a couple bucks using the non-EP. The EP should be fine for the LR4 if changed by 10kmi (IMO).

    Standard Mobil-1 (non-EP) is what I consider a "fake" synthetic, with Group III base stocks, that is just a highly refined dino oil. These type of oils have similar characteristics compared to true Group IV/V synthetics, with the primary exception being they do not tolerate extended drain intervals very well. After about 5k-7kmi these oils shear down and the engine will start to "burn" oil at a fairly substantial rate (like, a quart every 1-2kmi). The "burning" problem vanishes when the oil is changed, until it again reaches the 5-7k point. The vast majority of so-called "synthetic" oils on the market in USA are Group III, and they are fine if you change your oil by ±5kmi or so. I personally would not use a Group III oil in the direct-injected AJ133 LR4 V8 engine, even if changed at 5kmi, but that's just me.

    How do you tell the base stock of an oil? It's not easy, a lot of research may be required to find out. As a rough guide, most oils around $6-$8 per quart (retail price) will be Group III, while most oils $10-$12/qt (or more) are almost always Group IV/V.

    To learn more than you ever wanted to know about oils, and read lengthy entertaining arguments, visit the BITOG forum: https://bobistheoilguy.com/

    For Mobil-1 oils specifically, read my old post #177 at this thread: http://www.landroverworld.org/threads/diy-oil-change-for-lr4.22797/page-18#post-175734

    As of this writing, the Mobil-1 product finder in USA still does not officially recommend any Mobil oils for either the 5.0L V8 or 3.0L V6 used in the LR4 in USA.
     
  8. Quijote

    Quijote Full Access Member

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    Yeah, I just got tired of not being able to source the LR spec'ed Castrol oil, so I went with the Mobil 1 EP oil (which I believe Umberto has been using for a long time with no problems - also, I believe it meets the required Ford spec). I'll be changing the oil every 6k miles or so, so I expect to be fine.
     
  9. catman

    catman Full Access Member

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    Well, that would explain why every time I get an oil change using Mobil 1 5W30 on my LR3 that I see no change in the oil level for quite some time and then suddenly it starts using a little oil the closer I get to the next change. It was boggling my mind for years!
     
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  10. cperez

    cperez Full Access Member

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    I have committed to using Castrol Edge Professional in my 2013 from now on and did so on the oil change I did when I took delivery of this vehicle about 5 weeks ago.

    However, I was in Walmart this morning and saw Castrol Edge in the 5gal container for a per-quart price roughly half of what I paid for the "Professional" stuff from my JLR dealer. Is the difference between Castrol Edge and Castrol Edge Professional the same as the diff between Mobil1 and Mobil1 EP?
     

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