Factory roof rails & Thule rack fit kit quirk

[kdegLR4]

A long-winded FYI for people looking to purchase/install a Thule roof rack on an LR4 with factory roof rails.

I bought a set of Thule aero cross bars, podium feet and fit kit 3112 to install on the factory roof rails (full length). In the fit kit there are two sets of rectangular "anchors" that slot into the track for the foot to bolt into. The instructions with the kit specify using the anchors stamped with a "B" for the LR4 tracks, with the second, unmarked set of slightly larger anchors designated for Hummer roof rails.

The quirk in my case is that the LR4-specific anchors are too small and simply rotate within the roof rail track rather than lodging against the edges and allowing the anchor bolt to tighten. I tried using the larger, Hummer-specific set of anchors but wasn't comfortable with the amount of contact made by the rounded corners of the anchors within the track. I went back to the Thule shop yesterday and the install guy confirmed that I wasn't a complete idiot (in this case, at least) and that the supplied anchors were too small. He gave me a set of replacement anchors with a "C" stamped on them that have slightly sharper corners. The new bits made much better contact when I installed them last night though I'm not sure I'm totally satisfied with the solution and may re-install with custom parts after this weekend's trip.

I don't know if there has been a mid-model change to the full length roof rails or Thule messed up a batch of parts in the fit kit but in case you end up in the same boat, the pertinent details are:
2012 LR4
Full length factory rails (black) installed by dealer
Thule fit kit 3112
Thule podium feet 460R
Thule AeroBlade cross bars

 

[horns]

A long-winded FYI for people looking to purchase/install a Thule roof rack on an LR4 with factory roof rails.

I bought a set of Thule aero cross bars, podium feet and fit kit 3112 to install on the factory roof rails (full length). In the fit kit there are two sets of rectangular "anchors" that slot into the track for the foot to bolt into. The instructions with the kit specify using the anchors stamped with a "B" for the LR4 tracks, with the second, unmarked set of slightly larger anchors designated for Hummer roof rails.

The quirk in my case is that the LR4-specific anchors are too small and simply rotate within the roof rail track rather than lodging against the edges and allowing the anchor bolt to tighten. I tried using the larger, Hummer-specific set of anchors but wasn't comfortable with the amount of contact made by the rounded corners of the anchors within the track. I went back to the Thule shop yesterday and the install guy confirmed that I wasn't a complete idiot (in this case, at least) and that the supplied anchors were too small. He gave me a set of replacement anchors with a "C" stamped on them that have slightly sharper corners. The new bits made much better contact when I installed them last night though I'm not sure I'm totally satisfied with the solution and may re-install with custom parts after this weekend's trip.

I don't know if there has been a mid-model change to the full length roof rails or Thule messed up a batch of parts in the fit kit but in case you end up in the same boat, the pertinent details are:
2012 LR4
Full length factory rails (black) installed by dealer
Thule fit kit 3112
Thule podium feet 460R
Thule AeroBlade cross bars

If you get a chance to do so, I would like to see what your set up looks like. (pics please)
Any wind noise with this combo ?

thanks.

 

[mateored]

Here is my post in another thread from earlier this year:

http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showpost.php?p=117003&postcount=17

After having owned Thule racks on my last 4 cars, I bought the Thule roof rack system with the fit kit for the LR4 factory rails. After trying to install it, I was disappointed with the design. First, the rectangular plates that slide into the rails are too small, so they spin around when you tighten the bolts. (Keep in mind - these are supposed to be custom made for the LR3 and 4). Second, in order to remove the rack, you have to unscrew 8 bolts - even if you leave the 4 "feet" bolted to the car. So, today I brought it back to the store (RackSolid in Venice, CA), and exchanged it for the Yakima version. The design is 100% better. First, the pieces fit the rails perfectly. Second, once the feet are bolted to the rails, you can remove the cross-bars simply by unlocking the rack with the key and lifting a lever on each foot. Also, the feet that stay on the car are much smaller than the Thule. I was very disappointed with the Thule design. Score 1 for Yakima
​

 

[FitViking]

"C" plates?????

A long-winded FYI for people looking to purchase/install a Thule roof rack on an LR4 with factory roof rails.

I bought a set of Thule aero cross bars, podium feet and fit kit 3112 to install on the factory roof rails (full length). In the fit kit there are two sets of rectangular "anchors" that slot into the track for the foot to bolt into. The instructions with the kit specify using the anchors stamped with a "B" for the LR4 tracks, with the second, unmarked set of slightly larger anchors designated for Hummer roof rails.

The quirk in my case is that the LR4-specific anchors are too small and simply rotate within the roof rail track rather than lodging against the edges and allowing the anchor bolt to tighten. I tried using the larger, Hummer-specific set of anchors but wasn't comfortable with the amount of contact made by the rounded corners of the anchors within the track. I went back to the Thule shop yesterday and the install guy confirmed that I wasn't a complete idiot (in this case, at least) and that the supplied anchors were too small. He gave me a set of replacement anchors with a "C" stamped on them that have slightly sharper corners. The new bits made much better contact when I installed them last night though I'm not sure I'm totally satisfied with the solution and may re-install with custom parts after this weekend's trip.

I don't know if there has been a mid-model change to the full length roof rails or Thule messed up a batch of parts in the fit kit but in case you end up in the same boat, the pertinent details are:
2012 LR4
Full length factory rails (black) installed by dealer
Thule fit kit 3112
Thule podium feet 460R
Thule AeroBlade cross bars

My name is Nick LeFort..
I am the Fit Engineer for Thule North America...

First and foremost - I'm sorry you've had a problem with the fit on your LR4....
We're well aware of the "B" plate not fitting on the LR4 and have been working to correct it internally..

I will say, though, that the other plate in the box - Intended for the Hummer - was actually designed for the LR3 and LR4 and is the correct plate. We found that it would also work with the Hummer and added the vehicle to the list of fits for this kit.

Just so you know - I designed the "B" plate for a rash of LR3's that were using a factory track from an alternate source than the standard rack system (That's a long drawn out story for Land Rover to get into...).

That plate is being removed from the box, as we have confirmed that the amount of LR3's on the market with this "odd" roof track is very minimal, at best.

We are also changing the instructions to reflect the removal of the plate.
(if you'd like a copy of these, please email me and I would be happy to send them to you).

Regarding this "C" plate...
It's your decision to use it, but it is not designed for your vehicle and could possibly cause some damage - even rack failure. I am not sure why one of our dealers would give you a different part, and I am sorry for that. Furthermore, using this plate voids the warranty on the rack system itself... I'd feel more comfortable having you re-install the standard plate into the track (if you need these, or a new kit - I'd be happy to get them out to you.)

If you have any other questions - please let me know.
Again, sorry for the confusion... It's my job to make rack systems quick and painless..
Sometimes that doesn't happen - but I am doing my best to correct that situation.

Nick LeFort
Product Fit Engineer

[email protected]

 

[Expat93]

Nick,

Very cool that you monitor this site and chime in. I don't have this setup, but have huge respect for customer service and support since "Murphy" lives everywhere that the do it yourselfer lives. Kudos.

 

[FitViking]

Nick,

Very cool that you monitor this site and chime in. I don't have this setup, but have huge respect for customer service and support since "Murphy" lives everywhere that the do it yourselfer lives. Kudos.

Much appreciated...
I just want to make sure everyone's got their racks dialed in so they can go out and have their adventure!!!

 

[kdegLR4]

Thanks for the offer Nick, and thanks for peeking in at the board. I'll happily take you up on the set of "standard" plates as the RackAttack has mine now (and the new instruction sheet too). Luckily I'm pulling the rack this weekend to adjust placement anyway so there won't be any load on it for the foreseeable future.

If you want to send me an email with a pdf of the install sheet that would be great. PM me for the address when you have time.

 

[mateored]

Nick - thanks for taking the time to monitor your customers. As I said before, I've been a loyal user of Thule racks and add-ons since 1994 when I bought my first car (a Saab). You should read my post above. The Yakima design is far superior. It's pretty surprising.

 

[FitViking]

Nick - thanks for taking the time to monitor your customers. As I said before, I've been a loyal user of Thule racks and add-ons since 1994 when I bought my first car (a Saab). You should read my post above. The Yakima design is far superior. It's pretty surprising.

The Yakima approach has been popular with some and less popular with others....
The "likers" like the way it looks and the on/off feature. The "dislikers" have questioned its durability when installed..

I do agree that having less bolts to remove makes for an easier uninstall and re-install. This makes it more convenient to swap "between adventures". Who can complain about that? Hahah...

The major complaint about that system is the lack of metal reinforcements in the base... They rely a lot on plastic... To meet our safety standards, we use metal reinforcements in our Podium based track fits (and other style fits as well) - it makes for a stronger and more secure fit.

The bottom line - whichever system does the best by you is the one you should have. I'd love to see everyone use Thule racks... But I'm a realistic person - people have to have choices.... Or it gets weird... "Big Brother is Watching You" weird....

 

[mateored]

The Yakima approach has been popular with some and less popular with others....
The "likers" like the way it looks and the on/off feature. The "dislikers" have questioned its durability when installed..

The major complaint about that system is the lack of metal reinforcements in the base... They rely a lot on plastic... To meet our safety standards, we use metal reinforcements in our Podium based track fits (and other style fits as well) - it makes for a stronger and more secure fit.

Yakima has been selling the landing pad/control tower kit for years. I'm not aware of any issues regarding its durability, but I can see where some people would believe, psychologically, that metal will be more durable. In real life, many of the metal parts on all of my Thule roof racks have eventually rusted out (note that I live near the beach). Score 1 for plastic.

Your comment about "more secure fit" is a little ironic given the question that started this thread.

Anyway, I'm not trying to be snotty -- I've spent many thousands of dollars on Thule products and still own a Thule surf board carrier and two long-tray bike carriers. In fact, I just purchased a $500 set of Thule snow chains (K-Summits) for my LR4 a couple of weeks ago (and have considered starting a thread about them) And I'm sure I'll spend a lot more of my dollars on Thule products in the future.

In the meantime, I'm sticking with the Yakima roof system