Head gaskets... now camshaft and lifters?
- Thread starter Roby466
- Start date
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After reading 130,000 miles and "all the springs and valves. All was perfect". Those original valve springs have done their job and are sacked out at that many miles with less than the minimum closed spec seat pressures. Added shims to old springs is a bad idea.
The cost of new springs outweighs any damage from a dropped valve like a destroyed head, piston and cylinder bore.
Shimmed spring to get back new spring seat pressures at that many miles your playing Russian Roulette. On the bright side you can replace valve springs with the assembled engine, valve seals included.
Measuring each valve retainer to spring seat height then adding the proper shim thicknesses if needed to get the proper seat pressures of the cam manufacture's specs.
With your cam bearing (?) damage this would of been a good time to drop and clean the pan as well remove 2-3 random rod caps inspecting the top inserts for damage as well wear.
Another thing to think about, manufactured engines these days all have roller lifters and cams hence not relying on the now removed by the EPA zinc and phosphorus additives in the oil.
LR's flat tappet cams and lifters this spells a slow death to them especially during new cam break in which requires break in additives. Also recommended to run zinc and phosphorus additives in to your normal engine's oil for added protection.
The first DRY COLD START OF THE DAY or after an oil change is when the proper additives can help but better yet having a pre-oiler added to these LR engines.
The cost of new springs outweighs any damage from a dropped valve like a destroyed head, piston and cylinder bore.
Shimmed spring to get back new spring seat pressures at that many miles your playing Russian Roulette. On the bright side you can replace valve springs with the assembled engine, valve seals included.
Measuring each valve retainer to spring seat height then adding the proper shim thicknesses if needed to get the proper seat pressures of the cam manufacture's specs.
With your cam bearing (?) damage this would of been a good time to drop and clean the pan as well remove 2-3 random rod caps inspecting the top inserts for damage as well wear.
Another thing to think about, manufactured engines these days all have roller lifters and cams hence not relying on the now removed by the EPA zinc and phosphorus additives in the oil.
LR's flat tappet cams and lifters this spells a slow death to them especially during new cam break in which requires break in additives. Also recommended to run zinc and phosphorus additives in to your normal engine's oil for added protection.
The first DRY COLD START OF THE DAY or after an oil change is when the proper additives can help but better yet having a pre-oiler added to these LR engines.
Hi, I did the break-in with VR1 and acdelco zinc afdditive. Now I run liqui moly with their wear additive.
Agree many things have worn a bit but you have to draw the line. I was not there to make this a brand new engine and the engine was in there so I was not going to pull the crank. I have never had any low oil pressure warning at idle so I assumed my main bearings were still ok.
If the bottom end goes and I have to pull the engine I might do the Cummins route with 5sp manual
. If it’s going to be a big project might as well make it a proper big project
Agree many things have worn a bit but you have to draw the line. I was not there to make this a brand new engine and the engine was in there so I was not going to pull the crank. I have never had any low oil pressure warning at idle so I assumed my main bearings were still ok.
If the bottom end goes and I have to pull the engine I might do the Cummins route with 5sp manual
. If it’s going to be a big project might as well make it a proper big project Congrats and I hope you weren't thinking of me as busting your chops replies?
On the crank, just checking and possibly replacing the rod bearings only, this an easy task after removing and cleaning the pan of whatever was washed down including antifreeze.
Do not rely on the "idiot light" as it will turn on below 10 psi like 7 psi at a lower than computer set idle. Add a gauge plus make sure the pressure relief plunger is nice and smooth as well the aluminum bore it sides into as the bore at higher mileage engines begins to wear away causing a sticking plunger. On using VR1 oil, run it at break in but not all the time as it will sludge up and varnish the engine like an engine that never had an oil change. Seen this on a couple low mileage engines the owners bragged about VR1 as the best engine protection.
Had me think about a gathering at Rover's West with Mike Green an "'ex factory trained LR mechanic. He hates LR Stealerships" hence his independent LR repair shop in Livermore Calif. At Green's shop a couple years ago I did see 89 or 90 3 door Discovery with a TDI I5 engine in it.
Problem is here in Kalifornia with their **** smog stations in general with LR's being put on the "Test Only" smog checks it's a battle for many owners to get their LR's to pass.
Star only stations as LR's are considered gross polluters. This is why I keep the 4.6 looking totally stock. It passes as too cleawn
On the crank, just checking and possibly replacing the rod bearings only, this an easy task after removing and cleaning the pan of whatever was washed down including antifreeze.
Do not rely on the "idiot light" as it will turn on below 10 psi like 7 psi at a lower than computer set idle. Add a gauge plus make sure the pressure relief plunger is nice and smooth as well the aluminum bore it sides into as the bore at higher mileage engines begins to wear away causing a sticking plunger. On using VR1 oil, run it at break in but not all the time as it will sludge up and varnish the engine like an engine that never had an oil change. Seen this on a couple low mileage engines the owners bragged about VR1 as the best engine protection.
Had me think about a gathering at Rover's West with Mike Green an "'ex factory trained LR mechanic. He hates LR Stealerships" hence his independent LR repair shop in Livermore Calif. At Green's shop a couple years ago I did see 89 or 90 3 door Discovery with a TDI I5 engine in it.
Problem is here in Kalifornia with their **** smog stations in general with LR's being put on the "Test Only" smog checks it's a battle for many owners to get their LR's to pass.
Star only stations as LR's are considered gross polluters. This is why I keep the 4.6 looking totally stock. It passes as too cleawn
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Congrats and I hope you weren't thinking of me as busting your chops replies.
On the crank, just checking and possibly replacing the rod bearings, this an easy task after removing and cleaning the pan of whatever was washed down including antifreeze.
Do not rely on the "idiot light" as it will turn on below 10 psi like 7 psi at a lower than computer set idle. Add a gauge plus make sure the pressure relief plunger is nice and smooth as well the aluminum bore it sides into as the bore at higher mileage engines begins to wear away causing a sticking plunger. On using VR1 oil, run it at break in but not all the time as it will sludge up and varnish the engine like an engine that never had an oil change. See this on a couple low mileage engines the owners bragged about VR1 as the best engine protection.
Had to think about a gathering at Rover's West with Mike Green an "ex factory trained LR mechanic. He hates "LR Stealerships" hence his independent LR repair shop in Livermore Calif. At Green's shop a couple years ago I did see 89 or 90 3 door Discovery with a TDI I5 engine in it.
Your
On the crank, just checking and possibly replacing the rod bearings, this an easy task after removing and cleaning the pan of whatever was washed down including antifreeze.
Do not rely on the "idiot light" as it will turn on below 10 psi like 7 psi at a lower than computer set idle. Add a gauge plus make sure the pressure relief plunger is nice and smooth as well the aluminum bore it sides into as the bore at higher mileage engines begins to wear away causing a sticking plunger. On using VR1 oil, run it at break in but not all the time as it will sludge up and varnish the engine like an engine that never had an oil change. See this on a couple low mileage engines the owners bragged about VR1 as the best engine protection.
Had to think about a gathering at Rover's West with Mike Green an "ex factory trained LR mechanic. He hates "LR Stealerships" hence his independent LR repair shop in Livermore Calif. At Green's shop a couple years ago I did see 89 or 90 3 door Discovery with a TDI I5 engine in it.
Your
Lol!! No worries. I’m not thinking you’re busting my balls! I’m with you too for trying to do all the while you’re in there but I have to keep myself from going too far. I only have little time and 3 cars that each have a forum to their names so you know they need maintenance .
I don’t run the VR1. I’m use the liquimoly and from the pictures the engine shows quite clean. I think the problem was the PO running dyno and 12000km intervals. That coupled with low mileage for about 6 years means it got oil changes only once during that time...
. I don’t run the VR1. I’m use the liquimoly and from the pictures the engine shows quite clean. I think the problem was the PO running dyno and 12000km intervals. That coupled with low mileage for about 6 years means it got oil changes only once during that time...
It's taken me this long to reboot this POS laptop, a DELL purchase intended for OB2 smog checking wifey's and daughter's 10 & 04 Ford V6 Escapes.
I'm off to Best Buy.
Hope your state isn't as bad as my state dealing with smog inspections?
Last January I had smog due and was recommenced I use a local station, what a POS he was as, "I fail 95% of LR's". He spent 55 minutes trying to fail me as I run too clean after altering specs to pass then readjust for power and smooth running and pulling power. This **** also checked the Magnaflow high flow CATS to see if they pass in Calif. What a ****.
It passed at idle 5.4% of max allowed, 2,500 rpm test 5.7% of max allowed. I can play tricks too.
At least I enjoy (almost) working with this OB1 D1 vs OB2's with all their added crap.
Keep in touch, your a rare mechanic that works on these vs dealerships only. Carl.....~~=o&o>.......
I'm off to Best Buy.
Hope your state isn't as bad as my state dealing with smog inspections?
Last January I had smog due and was recommenced I use a local station, what a POS he was as, "I fail 95% of LR's". He spent 55 minutes trying to fail me as I run too clean after altering specs to pass then readjust for power and smooth running and pulling power. This **** also checked the Magnaflow high flow CATS to see if they pass in Calif. What a ****.
It passed at idle 5.4% of max allowed, 2,500 rpm test 5.7% of max allowed. I can play tricks too.
At least I enjoy (almost) working with this OB1 D1 vs OB2's with all their added crap.
Keep in touch, your a rare mechanic that works on these vs dealerships only. Carl.....~~=o&o>.......
Hi Carl, good luck with the laptop issue. Somehow my old slow garage laptop continues to read codes so I’m ok for now . (Trying to do anything else is painful though...)
No smog here but I’m moving back to a place with smog testing next year. I’ll stay hopeful.
Cheers!
David
. (Trying to do anything else is painful though...)No smog here but I’m moving back to a place with smog testing next year. I’ll stay hopeful.
Cheers!
David
Dave, this is the smog program I use; OBDCOM their laptop program.
http://www.obdcom.com/index.htm The best $88 i've ever spent for OBD2 vehicles. Great digital or analog scales live while driving.
Tag your it, Carl.....~~=o&o>.....
Seven vehicles, ten motorcycle, one DMC. I hear ya trying to keep the fleet maintenance current.
http://www.obdcom.com/index.htm The best $88 i've ever spent for OBD2 vehicles. Great digital or analog scales live while driving.
Tag your it, Carl.....~~=o&o>.....
Seven vehicles, ten motorcycle, one DMC. I hear ya trying to keep the fleet maintenance current.
