Hotttt!!!!!!!!!

[discomike]

My understanding is they will work fine without any plug modifications. I would call around to a few different different scourses and check pricing.
Mike J.

 

[Sergei]

Melissa, Lucas stuff isnt strong, its pretty mild actually. Do B&G44K one. Preferably - cough up 120$ and do motorvac with 3 B&G products - you will notice huge difference if it wasnt done before.

Which cats you running? I am looking forward to swap mine, as at 135K they sort of worrying me (yes i am easy worrying person).

 

[discomike]

Melissa,
44K is a big plus as well as the induction cleaner that should be used with it, but first things first, check out the heat from the right cat.
Mike J.

 

[RoverChic]

Thank you Mike, Mark, and Sergei. I will keep you posted as to what I get from the right side cat. I think the next "wanted" ad I plan to take out is for an ASE Land Rover Certified Man. Ha !! Ha!!

 

[Ares]

the p1178 and p1179 codes usually hint to a malfunctioning MAF sensor. Have you sucked water into the MAF recently? I would take out the MAF and give it a visual. Maybe spray it with some electrical circuit cleaner. Look through the screen and there is a piece of plastic separating the tube in half. In the center of this separator is a hole. In that hole is a little wire. Make sure that hole and wire is clean. The screen cant be removed, so you will have to get a flashlight and look in there. If you see dirt or mud, I would hit it with some brake cleaner. Also clean the electrical connections with some electrical contact cleaner or circuit cleaner. If it looks OK, I would try looking for another MAF. Maybe you can find someone with a D1 that will loan you one to see if it will fix the problem before you buy one. They are pricey! Good Luck.

 

[discomike]

Melissa,
When you consider that water and dust can throw a mass meter into flat line I would highly suggest that you don't attempt to clean it with cleaner of any sort. chances are you will throw a hard code and them go buy a new sensor that you may not have needed in the first place.
It will be alot cheaper to go have someone scan all the componets of your engine and see what's out of sorts.
Good luck,
Mike j.

 

[RoverChic]

Thanks for the info John ..I have heard that the MAFS can cause problems however I am not sure that I should take it off and spray it with anything ( I really have no clue what I am doing..and therefore I am sure that I would spray too much ) ..
Mike .. You are right (as usual) I need to just take it to the mechanic and have them look at it. I am changing out the Valve Cover Gaskets on Saturday with my uncle...This should be fun and a learning experience.
I will keep you posted as to how that works out..

 

[discomike]

Melissa,
It sounds like your truck will be in good hands. Why don't you take this time to do an engine oil flush and clean up the internals of your engine, only takes 5 or 10 minutes and one can of engine flush. This is a great way to rid your engine of lots of internal clicks on noises along with alot of varnish and laquer.
Have a good one,
Mike J.

 

[Ares]

I understand the hesitance to mess around with the MAF, especially considering the price of a new one. Im aslo sure you realize you cant just go out and do anything you read on this site (or any other) to your truck. Be careful, cautious, and use common sense. Mike is dead on, with the multiple codes you should probably take it to someone more familiar with LR vehicles. It could be a fly **** on an injector for all we know. But, I disagree with using certain cleaners on the MAF. My opinion is that certain cleaners are safe to use on the MAF. The only reason I posted is I ran into the P1179 code recently. I only got this single code. With your multiple codes... all the more reason to take it to an expert. Last weekend I had mud and water up past the filter into the intake and some into the MAF. I got the P1179 code 30 min later on the highway. After talking with a friend that is familiar with these little gadgets I followed his advice to do the following. Cleaned the MAF housing out with water and a towel being careful not to damage the screen. Sprayed the hell out of the MAF heater wire first with CRC Brakleen brake parts cleaner, then with Electronic Parts Cleaner (made by Turner Laboratories and can be bought at Auto Zone). I sprayed and sprayed paying no attention to quantity, rather to getting the sucker clean. Allowed it to dry completely. Cleared the code and it has not reappeared.

A week and 400 mi later, all seems good. But, who knows, it may go to crap tomorrow morning now that I mention it.

So, I say clean it out gently with distilled water, spray the crap out of the heater wire with the Electric Parts Cleaner only, let it dry, and give her hell. But that's just my Alabama redneck mentality glowing from within. I think everything can be fixed with Duck Tape, bungee cords and WD40!!!

 

[Roverhound]

"I think everything can be fixed with Duck Tape, bungee cords and WD40!!!"

Ares, you forgot tie wraps. This board has a fixation on them.