Lr4 Brakes

[ryanjl]

I just went ahead and bit the bullet on OEM rotors from FCP Euro. They are a bit more expensive there than elsewhere, but they stand behind a "lifetime warranty," which for them means you can buy new rotors however many miles from now, send in your old, gouged up ones, and they'll refund you the money you paid on the new ones.

It's a calculated risk on my part believing I'll have my LR4 that much longer, but right now I feel that I will. For as often as the LR4 needs new rotors, it seemed like a safe option.

Interestingly, the cheapest option for OEM rotors seems to be Merriam Land Rover, which is here in the KC area. Come to find out, however, they they can't sell parts to anyone who lives in their area for anything other than the retail price. They claim it's a "federal rule," but, as an attorney, I can tell them that I'm aware of no such federal rule. It's more likely a Land Rover rule.

 

[gamh2001]

Mine lasted close to 30K miles before changing. I drive my LR4 bearing in mind a bit of physics... I drive it like a truck not like a VW Golf GTI (no offense intended to VW owners) However, when time to change came I went OEM: F/R Brembo rotors, Ferodo pads, LR brake sensors. Bought the parts myself for about $700. Took it to a reputable AAA approved local garage that I have used for my other cars/SUVs for years, and paid $300 labor (no time and tools to do it myself ). 16K miles later braking still performing great.

 

[jpjp]

Ferodo is one of the OEM's for pads right?

I have a slight shimmy after changing my control arms and getting an alignment. I'm guessing the rotors may be a little warped from over tightening, but there was life on them so I'm sticking with them for a little while longer.

 

[ktm525]

Ferodo is one of the OEM's for pads right?

I have a slight shimmy after changing my control arms and getting an alignment. I'm guessing the rotors may be a little warped from over tightening, but there was life on them so I'm sticking with them for a little while longer.

Check your caliper pins, especially the ones with the rubber grommet. If this grommet wears or swells the calipers can hang on the pin and transfer the shimmy (ie. the calipers don't float).

Pins should be re-greased yearly.

 

[ryanjl]

So now the rear, lower control-arm bushing on my passenger side puked its guts on my driveway and I'm wondering if my shimmy upon braking isn't due to the brake rotors after all. I'll have the control arms replaced and see if that solves the issue. If not, I can do the brakes myself again.

 

[ryanjl]

Resurrecting an old thread.

I replaced my front rotors with the standard EBC rotors (i.e. not slotted or drilled) and pads with EBC pads about 13 months and 12,000 miles ago.

My front rotors began showing signs of being warped about 1,000 miles ago, and it's only getting worse, with a steering wheel shimmy upon light braking on the highway (shimmy begins to go away with heavier braking).

Looking to swap these rotors out for something else. I'm leaning towards OEM rotors with Hawk brake pads, unless someone can sell me on something else. As I am still planning on keeping the LR4 for a while, thinking about buying rotors from FCP Euro so that I can essentially get free replacements every brake pad change.

Just to update this, it appears the steering wheel shimmy was being caused by control arm bushings that were going out, even though they didn't puke up their fluid until after I made this post, and well after the problem surfaced. It's also interesting that the shimmy was only apparent upon light braking (hard braking made it go away) until the fluid leaked out of the control arm busing; after that, there would be some shimmy when accelerating.

I had the control arms replaced yesterday, and the shimmy is now gone.

 

[jpjp]

That's great to hear! Was driving last night to The Everglades late at night to see the Geminid Meteor Shower and between 70-90 there is a slight shimmy. Hoping new brake rotors solve the problem. Read on this thread or another that there is a rubber bearing on the caliper that could also cause the shimmy. Hopefully the indy will figure it out.

 

[ktm525]

Slight shimmy on light braking could be caused by rotors or LCA but the calipers need to be able to float to compensate. The pins in the LR4 are weird. One is standard and one has a rubber grommet embedded into it. This $0.30 part was a source for some of my weird brake issues.

 

[jhartz]

I think the problem is with the pads that have been used since intro of the 2010 LR4s and RRS. My first LR3 weighed as much as my latest RRS and the front pads still had 4mm at 52,000; backs were at 6mm.

My 2013 RRS is on its third rear pads and second fronts (3mm fronts, 4mm back at 28,000 miles). Rotors are fine. In nearly 200000 miles of driving Range Rovers and Land Rovers since 2005, I have yet to see rotors go bad before 75,000 miles.

 

[mbw]

oe rotors wear with the pads. they are somewhat soft. ive never seen them warp, but they do wear and you get a lip.

I change rotors with pads usually.