LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

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Pfunk951

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I think I can get them, I will do my best during the write-up to show how I accessed the tough ones (ratchet size, which way to approach, etc)..

Thank you for confirming you didn't have a cover, I was noticing that a lot in the FSM was copied over from the LR3 model.. Whew..

This means I only have to pull the pan?! This is getting better by the minute..

Mike
 

stufrowin

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Are you planning on doing the ecu multiplug/valve body sleeve/ # TZV500010G?

Supposedly they can leak, mine had no sign of leaking but I replaced it anyways. On rsw solutions video it looks like no biggie but if you notice he has a large pry bar, and it is equally difficult to get new one in, tight space with about 20 tiny electrical pins, very nerve racking, personally I wouldn't do it unless you see visual leakage.
 

Pfunk951

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If the mechanatronic sleeve is not leaking, I don't plan on touching it.. The LR3 video stated that the seals had been updated; I'm hoping that update made it into the MY2012s..

As there is no cover over the pan, my first move is going to be dropping the pan after I drain it.

Mike
 

Pfunk951

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Update:

Fluid showed up today.. I am planning on starting tomorrow after work..:biggrin:

Mike
 

Pfunk951

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Done!!:D 4 hours, could easily have been done in 3 if I knew what I know now.. The shakedown test-drive afterwards went great, no leaks and it's shifting like greased butter. But, I also look like I've been dipped in greased butter after tilting the transmission pan right over my head when taking it out.. I guess Quijote gets the last laugh, that wouldn't have happened with a lift...!

I'll get the pics up tomorrow..

Mike
 
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ryanjl

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Sweet. A 4-hour job sounds right up my alley.
 

Pfunk951

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Write-up:

Before we get into this, we need to:

1. Establish what tools, parts, and fluids are necessary, and

2. Familiarize ourselves with some components under the truck.


Tools:

Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Drain pan
Rags that can be discarded
Fluid pump
IR Thermometer

T40 Torx socket
T40 Allen wrench
8mm hex socket
10mm hex socket
3/8 ratchet(s), metric sockets
3/8 extensions, various lengths
3/8 driver for a drill (very helpful)
Small Torque Wrench
Hacksaw blade

6 Liters of LRN13754
Metal transmission pan, gasket, and separate filter (See above posts for locations to purchase)


Here's a picture of the pan, and associated things we need to know about:



trpan1.jpg







This job is perfect for you and a buddy, but can be done alone. As you can see, positioning yourself at the right angle is VERY important to get at some of these items. During this job, I never felt that I couldn't access what I needed to- I just had to re-position myself to get at it.

Let's begin.
 
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Pfunk951

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Step 1. Raise vehicle, secure on jack stands. I only raised the front, and not by very much- the front tires were still on the ground. Maybe 1.5 inches past the high setting on the suspension. Set E-brake if the wheels are still touching.

Step 2. Remove front armor. This will help us access some of the front pan bolts. This is the black steel guard. x8 bolts, easy to remove but a little heavy.

Step 3. Loosen Fill Plug with 8mm hex socket. You want to have assurance that this will come out later.. If you can't get this out to fill the transmission, you're in trouble- best make sure it can come out now..


fill1.jpg


Step 4. Place pan under drain plug, and remove drain plug with 10mm hex socket. Let fluid drain.

20170119_164340.jpg


20170119_164643.jpg
 
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Pfunk951

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Step 5. Remove pan bolts with the T40 socket and T40 Allen wrench. Here's where positioning yourself properly is critical. For the easy ones, I used the T40 on a drill for speed, the more you get this way the easier it is- remember there are 21 of these..! The front and rear bolts are the hardest- use extensions, the T40 Allen, and universals to get these out. Here are some pics of some techniques used:



20170119_171124.jpg
20170119_171828.jpg



When these are all out, lower the pan onto the cross-member. The filter neck(you can't see it yet) unplugs from a hole in the transmission, so you don't have to worry about bending anything once it pops out.

Here's what it will look like down:

20170119_173017.jpg
 

Pfunk951

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Step 6. Cut Filter Neck. This is a little tricky, but not very difficult once you understand where to cut. When under the truck, the filter neck is nearly centered about 3 inches from the front of the pan:


Tube2.jpg




Insertion: Wrap one end of the hacksaw blade in duct tape to save your hand (I did not- those teeth hurt while cutting!). You will notice that the transmission innards extend down a little into the pan, and we want to avoid them. What we want to do is insert the hacksaw blade in a downward angle (towards the ground) so that the tip of the blade contacts the bottom of the pan and slides over to the tube. It will look like this:

blade.jpg



Once this is accomplished, you can tap the tube with the blade and hear it. There are no wires or plastic things in this end of the transmission, so lightly probe around, on the picture above the blade teeth are on the tube. Drag the toothed part of the blade over the tube and you will hear it resonating through the pan, as they are one piece. A really good way to confirm you are on the tube is to let go of the pan, and pull the blade across the tube. It will move the pan back and forth- confirming that what you are cutting is the tube!

Start cutting. It seems like forever, but it only took me about 3-4 minutes to cut it loose. You'll know when you are through, the tube falls into the pan, and the pan gets really loose. Remove the blade, and fidget the pan around in a counter-clockwise position until it is sideways (perpendicular) to the vehicle.


20170119_175428.jpg


Lower the pan!

20170119_175440.jpg
 

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