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joey

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Don't mean to make you jealous.... just doing all I can to make my Rover happy.

Of course if I removed my RTE Nerf bar Rock sliders and my custom front bumper and went back to the factory tire size I might get even better fuel economy.
 

wolf

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Try cleaning your MAF sensor again... I know I get the stumble every so often, and I clean the MAF and all goes well for 6 months or so. Of course I also run a Cold Air Intake with an K&N type filter.

Hey Joey;

I have finally noticed a bit of a trend with that P1179 code - i.e. - it does not seem to happen when the gas tank is full - but get it down toward a quarter tank or at least under half a tank and P1179 starts showing up - go figure? Your speculation would be most welcome on this issue - as always.

Wolf
 

joey

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If it is fuel level consistent, it could be the vent tube to the fuel tank, or the gas cap.
 

wolf

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If it is fuel level consistent, it could be the vent tube to the fuel tank, or the gas cap.

Hey Joey;

I put a new gas cap on thinking it may be that but the issue continued; I am thinking vent tube now as well (thanks for the tip) as I had my tank replaced by the LR Dealership under that recall they were doing a year or so ago and I am wondering if they did not twist it the wrong way or something. Any idea what a good way to test that might be?

By the way, what kind of rock sliders do you have?

Wolf
 

joey

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Rock Sliders = RTE with Nerf bars

Test for the vent tube... replace it, they are cheap.
 

wolf

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Rock Sliders = RTE with Nerf bars

Test for the vent tube... replace it, they are cheap.

Hi Joey;

Roger that!

Now, on to another issue (possibly related): i.e. I have been worried about the charging capacity of my alternator (i.e., if the diodes were still up to their task in the rectifier, etc.) as I have been getting fluctuations that I thought seemed a bit severe (i.e., in my volt meter) and, on occasion, I have got these wierd hard starts - as if the starter was about to give up the ghost (you know the sound - whrrrrr whrrrrr - and then real slow and then it catches). Then that problem goes away only to re-appear a couple of weeks later. I had this issue before I went for my double battery set-up and my main battery is a red top Optima (secondary - is a yellow top) - so its not that system. I have a good starter standing by just in case the current one really is headed for the reman shop (I think I asked you before about doing the starter instal on a disco) and, given some sort of bearing noise in my alternator, I just replaced that - just to be safe. Now, I have not had a chance yet to experience the slow starter phenomenon with the new alternator but I have experienced the issue that made me think I had a fuel pressure problem (which I have e-mailed you about) - i.e., even with my new alternator - when I switch on to start the vehicle it cranks nicely but no start - so, I have to do the same thing I was doing before - which was to wait a couple of seconds in the full on mode just before cranking (i.e., when all your regular warning lights, etc. are showing on your instrument cluster display). When I wait for these few seconds it cranks right up and starts. I have been thinking , maybe, this is a bad ground in the starter? Possibly a weakening but not dead fuel-pump (this might also help to explain the P1179 code)? Normally, I am fairly good at hunting things down but now I seem to be going around in a circle - just a bit. What's your impression here (any and all ideas welcome)?

Wolf

:confused:
 

joey

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It could be a fuel pump, but you also check the fuel pressure before starting and it was good. and you watch for bleed down, this tells me that the pump should be fine. Key word is "should". Of course this is the modern age where everything is controlled by the ECU as well. Also do you hear a delay in the relay kicking in (passenger side foot well). Have someone turn the key to all most start i.e. full on, and listen for the relay. Maybe it is sticking.
 

wolf

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It could be a fuel pump, but you also check the fuel pressure before starting and it was good. and you watch for bleed down, this tells me that the pump should be fine. Key word is "should". Of course this is the modern age where everything is controlled by the ECU as well. Also do you hear a delay in the relay kicking in (passenger side foot well). Have someone turn the key to all most start i.e. full on, and listen for the relay. Maybe it is sticking.

Hey Joey;

Roger this - I'll get a buddy to help me with checking the relay on start-up - that's a good idea. I tend to always go for the most expensive solution first and work my way back from there - but relay (while not cheap) would be nice (just to be safe - I have a new fuel pump and regulator standing by [best deal was from the folks down at British Pacific])

Wolf
 

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Hi again Joey;

I had another question for you: i.e., which Cold Air intake are you using in your Disco?

Wolf
 

joey

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I purchased an Air Force One (yes that is the name) CAI, but as far as I know I got the last one in the country when I bought it. I was told that they no longer make them for the Disco since there really was no demand for the product.
 

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