I considered RPI as well, but the $1400+ cost was just too much for any benefit that would be any different from what I am getting.
My postings on here are what I am actually getting, so if you were averaging poor fuel economy and the lack of highway power like I was, then you will not regret getting the PowerChip. I will say that if you drive it hard just to see the difference, then you will not notice any fuel improvement. But if you do any highway miles like I do, then it will be very apparent the first time out. Around town I notice a big difference as well, but then again I am also documenting this so others will see how well this either works or doesn't... so far it works.
Wow Joey that RPI chip for the newer motor series is way out in nut "o" land.
I have a 95 D1 w/5-speed, you should know about me from years ago on this forum.
I had a warranty paid for and cheaper than the 3.9 POS motor a 4.6 installed.
With the RPI 4 cam with their lifters, RPI Tornado chip, dual roller steel timing gear set,
3" air inlet from filter box to thru the hole in the radiator support mounting behind the left headlight for true high pressure cold ram air not a under hood hot air like some kits.
This plus restricting the heated air inlet at the throttle butterfly which will burn your hand with the over heated air intake temp. I read off the Fluke meter 72 degrees in 50 degree outside air temps at 45 mph You can feel this in the butt-O-meter hands down a difference.
Besides the heads properly rebuilt to cure the sticking burnt valve Rovers did 4 times different patch jobs. I port matched and cleaned up the heads and intake manifold runners full length as well the heads intake ports to the seat inserts Same on the exhaust as well, cleaned up head ports, iron manifolds, down pipes, the inside at the "Y" then added high flow cats with all flange mounts that had internal welded beads removed. Tig weded on the outside. A full smooth flowing system from the trumpets to the Borla cat back after Borla's hour glass restrictor was removed. This added back pressure hour glass a pipe stub with a narrowed center was slipped into the outlet muffler stub and welded in the pipe edge, a simple grinder 1/32" grind thru the Tig weld then pulled out this unit plus it reduced the internal pipe area to 55% this restriction was removed and ran stronger above 3,000 rpm's. After the Borla failed, sounded like 4 cups of 1/2" rocks inside it took many months to get a replacement they are butt holes and an attorney was involved to get this million mile muffler replaced. New mufflers do not have this restrictor installed. Was told by Borla I must of found a wrecking yard muffler and want a new replacement free, yeah sure and it came with warranty card taped to the muffler clean and like new paper warranty card plus I had the Visa charge from the mail away parts company when purchased.
With stock tires and 3.54 gears I have had the speedo 15 degrees to the left from pointing straight down, have never stood on it long enough to find terminal to a "that's all I got top speed".
My old specs from smog tests with this motor with the RPI chip are still in this forum fron a couple years ago, super clean like 4 and 5 HC with 100 and 180 max allowed with other gasses at .00001 and flat zero super clean. With rear sun roof open and 3/4 to full throttle 3-5,500 rpm's you'll get a strong sulfur smell which the chip is is set right at the maximum
fuel air ratio for maximum power. No overly rich or lean condition. I recall this chip for the 95 D1 was $424 total with shipping included. The reason I picked this Rover was first it was a 5 speed, I own no vehicle with a automatic including the 520 cu/in motor in my MPI 68 Ford F250 pickup, 15.4 mpg. Second is because this is a OB 1 vehicle. I had no intrest with all the B/S that O/B 2 had besides I have a on board box with code numbers I can locate faults,fix and clear myself. No stealers touch my vehicles. I believe AutohausAZ.com may even have OEM Rover parts. I know they are 1/4 of dealer price for BMW parts, tax free out of state plus free shipping if over $50 purchase. On mufflers the Borla has a drone zone I added a full SS Vibrant resonator that removed 75% of this with a straight thru tube of thousands of holes. Oval shape for the most packing area to reduce noise vs those small round resonators with little packing mass. Not louvers that are a POS causing increased restrictions with flow increases like when you need it most flowing at full throttle or near this throttle position.
Borla cat back has a super smooth non crushed mandel bent tubing, this I like but the bell on the end tip with the exhaust pipe at the same length, two pipes stiching out looked stupid. I cut the exhaust pipe off inside where the bell tip begins with a big porting tool grinder, looks a heck of a lot better. The bell is light straw color even being stainless, motor nust be breathing rather good and hot exhaust this is not a lean condition problem either with the RPI chip. The perfect system would be if you can buy Borla's cat back pipe from the muffler back only, they will not sell this pipe only just a whole system for the money. Then use a Magnaflow muffler with the OEM old mufflers connection mount welded to the Magnaflow muffler, bolt foward to the "Y" collector. This way your system can be taken apart and is not butchered up and welded as a solid system.
Done rambling as I may be boring many of you. This works for my D1 that I have fun with against the newer 4.6 slush box powered Discos and Range Rovers. Not the superchargerd Rangie's. My PU will dust them in a heartbeat besides I top out at 156 mph on radar. Fun to play with some of these Rover snobs, most are cool people.
Cheers.
