old thread;
What's wrong with your old dizzy?
Total unit replacement dizzy's in the USA ($$$$) are like the starter and alternator.
Brushes and small parts ordered from England rebuilding way cheaper.
Bearings replacement numbers found in the USA.
Dizzy you can take apart, clean then relube the mechanical advance unit.
Going inside also allows you to alter the advance curve, when and how much in total degrees.
Only weak item the vacuum advance unit a short lived over priced POS.
Suck on the vacuum line and check the unit if it hasn't failed.
Have seen 75% of dizzy engines with failed units. A **** without added advance.
On average 19 months use then they begin to start leaking and failing.
BTW the vacuum ****** on top of the plenum at the throttle plate has a restriction hole of app 0.011" hence any small vacuum canister leak or hose your vacuum signal is lost as well any vacuum advance.
Rebuilt unit from Oz. ($58 vs $108 OEM) has more degrees advance as well lasting nine and counting trouble free years.
After marker "must have and better" electronic trigger unit with "hotter" coil. I'll pass still running great with stock coil and trigger system.
Ignition wires, Crane Fire Wires 50 ohms per foot, install and forget.
Used to find LR's in Pick-n-Pulls, not so much for these 94 & 95 with a dizzy.
Picked up a spare dizzy, trigger unit and coil stored on board as backup.
I enjoy running around with the 95 D1 5 spd with 4.6 and Tornado chip, run up to 5,600 rpm shift points without any ignition problems. BMW 3.0 BAR fuel pressure regulator delivers the correct fuel pressure vs OEM 2.5 BAR at below spec minimum even from new.
