Ride Height Sensor Question

[Houm_WA]

Anyone know if the ride height sensors have been revised in any way over the last 3 years? I replaced one yesterday (that had been installed by the dealership 2 years ago) and it was much thinner than the other spares I have and thinner than the old one that it had replaced (which I still have).

Is this a newer version of the correct LR3 sensor or did the tech erroneously install a sensor from perhaps an LR4 or RR?

Thanks in advance,
Houm

 

[tlt]

No Idea, but I have 4 brand new ones still in the box I bought as spares a couple of years back, happy to look at them to see if they are different for you.

 

[Houm_WA]

Nah that's ok. I've learned that the part has been revised many times. The Part Number shows it as correct for the LR3...what I don't know is whether or not they should be used together (meaning the 3-pin version and the 6-pin version).

 

[tlt]

I wonder if this is related to your other problem with suspension light?

 

[Houm_WA]

I don't think so. I replaced the other sensor, checked the calibration and then put about 200 miles on it (some off-road with plenty of articulation) before this amber fault triggered. That said, it was REALLY dusty where we were; maybe some electrical connections got fouled up?

Also, maybe it is related in as much as this issue caused the compressor to really have to work overtime. Maybe it's now getting tired...

 

[tlt]

I found that after I depressurized the system, lowered the suspension with the IID tool, the compressor got warm and had warnings during the initial refill. It subsequently stabilized, and seems fine. I wonder if the desiccant is getting crappy and restricting air flow.. Have you pulled it?

 

[Houm_WA]

I measured the live values while it filled the tank. It never got all that close to full (1450 kPa instead of 1780) before it threw a fault. Either the compressor is Tango Uniform or the tank has a leaky valve. Either way, if I "go in" I'm changing to the AMK and solving the problem of fitting the RS Sliders back on.

 

[jwest]

Either way, if I "go in" I'm changing to the AMK and solving the problem of fitting the RS Sliders back on.

What do you mean by this? Does the new AMK have a size or shape difference ? Based on what you'd been saying about the bracket I assumed you already were using an AMK.

I have two extra sensors I bought in 2007 or 2008 when I used their "arms" to test making my own out of them (which worked great actually and are adjustable length

I leave them tucked away in the vehicle as they seem to be a potential breakage part. I also carry a new replacement transfer fuel pump for the 2nd fuel tank since it's small and very easy to do. Had the first one die on a trip so that was kind of annoying. It's very easy to access.

 

[Houm_WA]

jwest, the AMK is larger than the Hitachi. That's the reason for the re-lo bracket by Tactical 4x4s. I was saying this about the bracket all in preparation for the day my Hitachi died, which by the way, was yesterday! I was going to modify the bracket myself, but the Service Advisor actually offered to, citing that he had all the necessary tools already and could just do it at home. We marked up the part and went through the plan together and I took him up on his offer. Apparently he made one new hole and it dulled his carbide bit (for his air drill)....so that's some pretty strong $hit that they used at Tactical.

I'm hoping to use as much of the acoustic box as I can, too. That may mean chopping off parts of the FWD end of it. The compressor resides nearer to the AFT end, so that should be doable. One latch is down there at the "pointy end" so it may need some friggin' duct tape.

Jwest, what tool did you use to cut/trim the Tactical bracket? Plasma cutter?

 

[jwest]

I hadn't realized what was going on with yours. Guess you jinxed yourself

I cut it with hack saw at the rear (specifically to allow the slider to mount up tight) and drilled out holes larger where I wanted the extra access for the bolts.

I'll be surprised if using ANY acoustic box allows fitting the slider without issue... I removed both halves completely. I don't care so much about the sound and it should cool off a lot faster too.

I still don't like how near the exposed edge the rear air line comes out the back so that's why I want to investigate moving the whole thing as far forward as possible. Then I want to extend the fender liner down against the slider so that mud doesn't just get piled up into the slider.