The obligatory "Show off your LR3' thread

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

grimmecm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2014
Posts
46
Reaction score
32
Like very cool but you need to do a true, 100% flex test before you tell people they stuff into the rear wheel well just fine. Cause they don't.

I've tested full articulation on 32, 32.5, 33 and 32 is about max for true and honest flex fit....they have to roll inside fender without much contact or they don't "fit".

Static fit is a useless function.

Plus, the spacers which were obviously required, make the situation even worse because you can't even fully utilize the interior shape of wheel well. The tire contacts the fender flare edge too soon.

I've made these tests with none or 30 and 50mm spacers and tires ranging from 245-305 widths on varying heights.

Also, most heavy duty sliders will become a rubbing problem probably around 33-34" which are not easily trimmed.

Your set up sure looks badass though!

Easy there big dog jwest. Didnt realize that you had already done everything possible and knew all the answers. But yes, everything takes some trimming and work to get right. These arent jeeps where things just bolt up. I'll give you guys a better run down after my trip to Rausch Creek in June.
 

maxx4wd

Full Access Member
Joined
May 5, 2016
Posts
111
Reaction score
39
I've been sporting some 32's for the last year or so and lately (after our last few outings) I've noticed that at full stuff I do get rubbing in the rear passenger side...looks like there are some lines under the inner fender back there (maybe coolant lines?) - has anyone re-located these and if so do you have any pics of where you put them...I am planning on moving them out of harms way now that I've noticed the rubbing...I could always just get some bump stop spacers but might as well fix an unavoidable issue - not trying to de-rail the thread just thought it might be pseudo relevant to the recent discussion...and I agree for full flex 32s are probably the max without some decent modifications
 

grimmecm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2014
Posts
46
Reaction score
32
I've been sporting some 32's for the last year or so and lately (after our last few outings) I've noticed that at full stuff I do get rubbing in the rear passenger side...looks like there are some lines under the inner fender back there (maybe coolant lines?) - has anyone re-located these and if so do you have any pics of where you put them...I am planning on moving them out of harms way now that I've noticed the rubbing...I could always just get some bump stop spacers but might as well fix an unavoidable issue - not trying to de-rail the thread just thought it might be pseudo relevant to the recent discussion...and I agree for full flex 32s are probably the max without some decent modifications


This thread has it perfectly. They're coolant lines for the heater.

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/143822-LR3-4-Rear-AC-Line-relocation/page2
 

Houm_WA

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2006
Posts
3,938
Reaction score
256
People have re-located those lines behind that metal flange where the body joint is. Others (like yours truly) who don't have rear CC lack those HVAC lines and have pounded body joint flat and primed it.
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
Easy there big dog jwest. Didnt realize that you had already done everything possible and knew all the answers. But yes, everything takes some trimming and work to get right. These arent jeeps where things just bolt up. I'll give you guys a better run down after my trip to Rausch Creek in June.

Except no, you are not getting full articulation without rubbing, period. Just moving the lines in rear isn't anywhere near enough for 34" tires.

Stop bullshitting people and show full flex with photos. Basically step up or shut up. Spacers make almost all flex fit issues worse, not better, in off-road flexing. Town crawling is no problem and if you think running a truly rugged trail while at near max he sight setting is a good idea.... better bring some spare parts with you.

I've been in rovers off road for 18 years and this one 10. I'm a curious person so yeah, I've tested a lot of different scenarios. A lot of people like to show off big tire photos on the street but never get real with it.

You do realize the shortened height sensor rods don't provide anything not already possible with the factory arrangement right?
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
Regarding "jeeps , trimming" I had all the trimming and more finished 9 years ago. I can also run 17" wheels with studded E load range Nokians and chains front and rear or 100% flexed 32's with full city parking garage slamming capability as well.

Yet the rear differential can get over 14" under it... So yes, please do explain to me how the LR is different from jeeps LOL
 

grimmecm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2014
Posts
46
Reaction score
32
Regarding "jeeps , trimming" I had all the trimming and more finished 9 years ago. I can also run 17" wheels with studded E load range Nokians and chains front and rear or 100% flexed 32's with full city parking garage slamming capability as well.

Yet the rear differential can get over 14" under it... So yes, please do explain to me how the LR is different from jeeps LOL


I get it. You know everything. It can't be done if you haven't done it. No worries mate.

I'll just leave these of Lucky 8's LR3, on 35s "getting real with it". Feel free to explain how it's not possible. Not my rig. Not set up. They're running a much smaller spacer. I just wanted to see what it would take to get full lock with the stock bumper. The point is it is possible to do more than what you've done.

You don't just have to be the spokes person for Haterade. Always appreciate any help or guidance from those who are more practiced than I am. "Nope impossible. Can't be done." Doesn't really accomplish any of that.
IMG_6131.JPG
IMG_6130.JPG
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
LOL. They made the proper mods. You did not. Your tires do not fully stuff into the fender liners with mobility. That's my point, not at all that it cannot be done. I'm calling ******** on your claim that 34's "fit" with no rubbing.

Their LR3 has dropped struts and limiters, yours is on stock strut locations, thus the biggest reason you cannot achieve full articulation with a 34.

Regarding their smaller spacer...do you not understand why ? The more you push the tire outboard the more problems you create with articulation AND turning front wheels even though you're trying to space the tire away from the frame and upper control a flange.

My goal had been to retain maximum functionality along with off road capability which is the only reason I didn't go ahead with their strut drop kit. I want to retain clearing an 81" garage door with my rack and awnings still on top, which it does while also having over 14" under the lowest point, the rear diff.

The point of calling BS is so other people don't go and order 34's thinking all will be fine - because there are big negatives at that size, one being zero rolling if you loose air, proof it doesn't retain articulation either. I don't understand your need to refute this known fact.

image.jpg


Just a quick example above. Merely 32" non aggressive shoulder tire that is ticked higher than fender edge. A 1" larger radius, on wider tire such as yours, cannot roll if jammed into fender edge.

The way to account for this is L8's strut kit which effectively raises the settled/airless/max articulation levels such that a larger tire will stay out of contact. See, I'm trying to help you, but don't ******** people with "isn't this cool ...they fit fine"
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
Again, just a 32 trim edged tire, almost touching the actual body metal, well up inside the fender edge.

It is what it is.

Full articulation is even a bit tighter.

Highest point right at 80"

image.jpg


So yeah, let's keep it real for the good of community ;)
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
36,256
Posts
217,955
Members
30,493
Latest member
A562NV
Top