What do you think, new bushings needed?

Discussion in 'LR4' started by umbertob, Mar 14, 2017.

  1. epiclr4

    epiclr4 Full Access Member

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    Ah, it seemed like these were a upgrade from the aftermarket.
     
  2. stufrowin

    stufrowin Full Access Member

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    Replaced my sway bar bushings over the weekend with orange polybush. Mine weren't as bad as Umberto's, rookie mistake though and I forgot to grease them...squeak squeak. Will try to spray with silicone or lithium grease before I remove again.

    Heads up very tight space on driver side upper bolt, need a deep offset 18mm box wrench, ride quality seems unchanged from oem to poly. Where as with the LCA swap I would say the change was significantly more dramatic.
     
  3. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    It is s misconception to assume poly bushings will last longer. I have discussed this at length with three long time mechanics and a race car builder.
     
  4. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    This is what I want! ;). But I'm getting Meyle HD control arms instead. The ball joint is upgraded from OEM.

    Already have the HD sway bar ends links and they're really nicely constructed.

    http://sykes-pickavant.com/products/suspension-tools/bush-removal-and-installation/2338
     
  5. stufrowin

    stufrowin Full Access Member

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    Yeah I think I would have been better off with OEM for sway bar seemed like a tighter fit, as far as control arm, time will tell I have about 15k on poly and so far so good but stiffer ride.
     
  6. stufrowin

    stufrowin Full Access Member

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    jwest likes this.
  7. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    I got the Meyle "HD" links and standard LR genuine sway bar bushings. Just did the rear today - both front and rear were pretty easy really.

    Next week I'm putting in all 8 control arms and the new Billstein 4600 series dampers.

    The control arms I took a lot of time to find the very hard to find new Meyle HD version for the front lower. also got the Meyle front upper and then for the rear whatever it is that Atlantic British is calling "premium select" nonsense. Not as happy with that LOL because I like to know who is making things but online there wasn't a good Meyle choice yet for the rear oddly. New hardware for all 8 as well.

    Also doing the rear toe links and probably the front tie rod joints but those feel fine so they might not be original. Most of my parts are though and with 130k but all the extra weight the whole time 10 yrs, they seem very due.
     
  8. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    I meant to remind you, careful what you spray on poly parts as they can be destroyed by the wrong stuff. This was something the mechanic mentioned though I forget what fluid was so bad they disintegrated. It might have been as simple as ATF, brake fluid, or certain oils but I don't remember.
     
  9. stufrowin

    stufrowin Full Access Member

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    Thanks for heads up. I ended up spraying with silicone as I do with most non metal stuff. Thankfully that one is ok. I guess petroleum based products can cause rapid break down of poly. I ended up replacing the links with the MOOG problem solver and my problem went away. Seems good quality in comparison to the other I had on (I think beck/arnley)

    Is this the first time you've had to do the front control arms? My lower we're toast at 60k and have about 20k on the reworked ones.
     
  10. mbw

    mbw Full Access Member

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    I was having a squeak and a little tick/pop sound every revolution when turning almost full lock at slow speed yesterday. I can't reproduce it today. It's not rubbing anything that I can tell. (the wire harness on driver front is moved)... shrug

    I ordered a set of front timken bearings just to have in case I need them. Also going to do front brakes this week (still on original pads/rotors at 53k miles!).

    I hope its not CV or something. Could it be any of the other bushings?
     

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