LR5 Release Updates?

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colorover

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I just don't care for the styling and think it lacks the distinction of the current LR4 and last FF RR. I like most of the styling of the new FF RR except for the headlights, and I am very turned off by the new Sport. It just doesn't look like a Rover should, even setting aside the similarities with the Explorer. (I have a larger problem with the industry's movement to "crossovers" - kind of like all season tires, too much of a compromise / not good at much. And they uniformly look awful.)

I have seen a few of the new Disco Sports and they look cheap, I would expect a similar first impression when we see the "LR5". I will still try it and we may buy one down the road, depending on how it drives. I have driven the new RR Sport a few times and I didn't like it. The steering was awfully numb, the was a noticeable low frequency vibration (likely from the aluminum construction), and quite a lot of road noise/tire roar. This occurred in both the 5.0 Supercharged version and a base. It is honestly the last thing I would want to spend my money on. Maybe a new Defender will
 

jwest

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I too am fascinated by the G. Guess it's an old concept with a ridiculously high price?

Is it "ridiculous" ? Doing some math, my lr3 was $55k. It required a number of things to be on the same level as a G aside from tires. For example, just the simple things:
G can take 33" tires EASY totally stock format. Up until recently they even came standard with 18" wheels. New tires provided an instant 1" lift.
Having steel springs, it was only a few $$$ to pop in taller springs for 2" more lift that could not ever tell you on the instrument panel something like "lost communication...with something" or "ooh, ooh, obstruction sensed, please scratch your ass and start over"
G comes with 3 locking differentials. This would cost $3000-$3500 on an lr3 to buy and pay for proper installation for now finally available ARB lockers and compressor kit.
LR3/4 really can't ever use 35" tires, kind of never unless you actually cut out lots of fender and somehow reworked frame parts and more. 32" is about it for trouble free tire size and that's after some mods that most people aren't willing to try.
G can actually "fit" 35's but they will rub a little at compression - oooh nooo ;)

G is insanely waxed and protected from corrosion. Land Rovers have no corrosion protection aside from silly paint. The body itself appears to be galvanized, but not the frame or anything below the body shell !

G 500 cost less than 2x of an LR3 when I bought mine, less actually and now a G 550 now ($115k) costs much less than 2x a loaded lr4 ($72k). I'll bet you all day long the G will last proportionally longer. The G only costs about 30% more.

So, with the G you pay it all up front, with Land Rover you buy them more often.

The thing is that most people, including me, get sucked in by the nice comfortable and quiet ride and easy handling of the LR3 or 4 as well as the fantastic design of the cargo area and seats. All that stuff has me often thinking, fine, I'll just have a LR half as long as a G would last but buy them twice as often.

Hell, buy 2 of your favorite to make them last longer ;) Could choose black vs white or work vs play, etc.
 
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toddjb122

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Saw this article today;

LR4-Replacing Discovery SUV To Be First With ‘SVX’ Special Off-Road Treatment

I don't interpret this as positive news. I think this will mean the base model will have standard LR3/LR4 offroad capability stripped from it. And if you want those features, you'll have to wait an additional 12-18 months for the SVX version....likely at a significant upcharge.

*** is LR doing with their marketing? "Land Rover hopes to convince buyers of the off-road prowess of its vehicles..." I'm pretty sure everyone already associated the brand with that.
 

roverman

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It must be one hell of a tight rope to walk to continue to pussify the brand (yes, it's a word), while at the same time convincing everyone that it is still the best 4X4XFar. I would very much doubt that the 'extreme' package even gets us back to where we are now. All the money spent on all this, but they can't find a way to bring the Defender here?
 

toddjb122

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It must be one hell of a tight rope to walk to continue to pussify the brand (yes, it's a word)...
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

... All the money spent on all this, but they can't find a way to bring the Defender here?
Yeah, that's a great point.
All this fuss, and they already have a vehicle in production that north america wants to buy. ?!?!
 

bgsntth

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Darn - feeling better about ordering the Suburban Z71. Looks like it will be a few years old before I can even consider the Disco5.
 

jwest

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Darn - feeling better about ordering the Suburban Z71. Looks like it will be a few years old before I can even consider the Disco5.

I'd really like the see the burb with mild lift and 35's ;)
 

bgsntth

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Just an update. I just received my 2016 Suburban Z71 last week. It is huge, but the Z71 improves the ride and handling markedly over the base, towing and magnafirm suspension offerings; but, it is still not close to a Land\Range Rover product - predictably. Anyways, I thought I would share a TSB from GM regarding an insane issue with the 2015's - interior buffeting. What I "love" about it is that there are at least 3 real and big issue\problems that have to be addressed\eliminated to truly fix the problem. My 2008 Range is still the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned; albeit, my 2014 Accord Sport has not had a single issue, rattle hick-up - but it is stripped.

#PIT5318B: Wind Buffeting Drone Type Noise And/Or Body Pressure Booming And/Or Water Leak - (Jul 30, 2015)
Subject: Wind Buffeting Drone Type Noise And/Or Body Pressure Booming And/Or Water Leak


Models: 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models
2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2015 GMC Yukon Models

This PI was superseded to update Recommendation/Instructions. Please discard PIT5318A.

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern

Note: In some cases, correcting the roof bows may not eliminate the body pressure booming issue due to the fact that the roof is being excited by some other input(s). These other areas will need to be addressed if the body pressure booming is still present at the completion of this PI. Examples of inputs that can excite the roof may be:

Tires with excessive road force (Reference "condition 1" in the latest version of PI1354)
Exhaust back pressure valve issues (Reference the latest version of PIT5404)
Rear axle related issues such as pitchline runout (Reference "Other Sources of Vibrations" Step 3 in the latest version of PI1354)

Some owners may comment of a wind buffeting/droan noise or body/pressure booming (the feeling of pressure in the ears) while driving. The body booming issue may be more noticeable when the engine is in V4 mode for active fuel management (AFM). In some cases, they may also notice a water leak from the headliner area, if equipped with a sunroof.

These concerns could be caused by the roof sheet metal no longer being attached fully to the roof bows (1). On trucks with a sunroof, it may be noticed that the rear edge of the sunroof glass is considerably lower than the roof (2). This is due to the roof sheet metal being detached from the roof bow directly behind the sunroof opening (3).
Object ID: 3973291Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Object ID: 3973293Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Object ID: 3973294Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Recommendation/Instructions

To correct this concern, apply panel vibration control material between the roof bow and roof sheet metal, along with foam shim material when necessary.

Remove the headliner to access the underside of the roof. Inspect all 4 roof bows for insufficient bonding to the roof sheet metal (4). Any roof bow that is not bonded to the sheet metal will need to be repaired.
Object ID: 3973295Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Use the following repair for all 4 bows on trucks without a sunroof, and for the 3 rear bows on trucks with a sunroof:

Use a plastic scraper or similar tool to remove the old foam. Measure the gap between the top of the roof bow and bottom of the roof sheet metal. If the gap is 1/4" (6mm) or greater, use a combination of 3/4" wide by 5/16" or 7/16" thick foam shim material (as listed below) to fill the gap between the roof bow and the sheet metal. Care should be taken to add only the correct thickness of foam to fill the gap so it does not push up on the roof. Cut the foam into 5 inch lengths and evenly place in five spots along the roof bow. With the foam shim material in place, or if the gap is less than 1/4" (6mm), use the panel control vibration material (as listed below) to fill the voids between the roof bow and sheet metal. In some cases, it may take a couple layers of material to fill the void.

Repair for 1st bow on trucks with a sunroof:

Using a plastic scraper or similar tool, remove the old foam. Use the panel control vibration material (listed below) and apply along the top of the 1st roof bow. Obtain two 2x4 pieces of wood long enough to span the opening of the sunroof. Wrap one of the 2x4's with a cloth to protect the roof paint and place it on top of the roof, see NOTE below. Place the second 2x4 underneath the roof bow, sandwiching the roof sheet metal and roof bow between the two pieces of wood. Clamp everything together using three C-clamps as shown in the photo below (5 & 6). The clamps will need to stay in place until the panel control vibration material is dry.

Note: When placing the cloth wrapped 2x4 on the top/roof, pay close attention that it is far enough forward so that the 2x4's rear edge does not contact the roof's raised ribs. The roof ribs may be damaged/dented if the 2x4 is placed on them when clamped down
 

skelzer

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Just an update. I just received my 2016 Suburban Z71 last week. It is huge, but the Z71 improves the ride and handling markedly over the base, towing and magnafirm suspension offerings; but, it is still not close to a Land\Range Rover product - predictably. Anyways, I thought I would share a TSB from GM regarding an insane issue with the 2015's - interior buffeting. What I "love" about it is that there are at least 3 real and big issue\problems that have to be addressed\eliminated to truly fix the problem. My 2008 Range is still the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned; albeit, my 2014 Accord Sport has not had a single issue, rattle hick-up - but it is stripped.

I'm literally also considering a choice between a new Tahoe/Escalade or waiting for the new LR5... so thanks for the detail in your post. Actually, it's really a choice between the following:

- wait for LR5
- Tahoe/Escalade
- new Volvo XC90
- Mercedes GL550

We've got 2 little ones and two more on the way... so it's purely a decision around third row access, which is why the LR5 flexible configuration would be a perfect fit. If only it would arrive before '17...!
 

jwest

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I'm literally also considering a choice between a new Tahoe/Escalade or waiting for the new LR5... so thanks for the detail in your post. Actually, it's really a choice between the following:

- wait for LR5
- Tahoe/Escalade
- new Volvo XC90
- Mercedes GL550

We've got 2 little ones and two more on the way... so it's purely a decision around third row access, which is why the LR5 flexible configuration would be a perfect fit. If only it would arrive before '17...!

GL with a long warranty.
Sprinter van with passenger layout ;)
Mercedes Metris with passenger layout
New XC90 looks nice but I still think it's a bit cramped in the 3rd row, at least compared to lr4 or GL

Wait for X7.... ;)
 

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