Just picked up EBC pads and rotors

shrinkboy · Nov 11, 2015

Just got my service report from the dealer, and after changing my pads and rotors (EBC, yellow and sport slotted, respectively) 12k miles ago, they're saying they're down to replacement thickness on both pads and rotors. Not impressed - the brakes sang all year long, faint metallic squeal, and performance was the same as OEM, and perhaps slightly dirtier with regard to brake dust. Lifespan definitely wasn't. This was with daily driving (40 miles round trip, freeway, some stop and go) and a couple of trips across the Rockies and one short run through Slickrock in Moab. The rotors also developed a shimmy about 1k ago, so I'm pretty sure they warped. OEM lasted far, far longer.

Open to other ideas, as I'm going to have to put the thing up on jack stands and do the brakes in the next month, looks like. Thinking about going plain-jane solid rotors and normal pads from AutoZone if the expensive ones are going to be this fickle.

Izzyandsue · Nov 11, 2015

Oh, EBC Yellows are great for racing and enduros, they squeal a lot when cold and do take a few laps on a track to warm up. They also don't reach full effective friction rate until hot. They last me a few weekends, they are hard and do eat up disks.

I run greens, street use, on my LR, so far last me around 18-20k miles (60K at the moment), and I replace as preventive since they are easy to do and I no longer use the low pad sensor. They could easily go 25k to the sensor, in my own opinion.

I used Delco solid rotors when I changed this past month, and EBC greens again.

RBA · Nov 11, 2015

shrinkboy said:
Just got my service report from the dealer, and after changing my pads and rotors (EBC, yellow and sport slotted, respectively) 12k miles ago, they're saying they're down to replacement thickness on both pads and rotors. Not impressed - the brakes sang all year long, faint metallic squeal, and performance was the same as OEM, and perhaps slightly dirtier with regard to brake dust. Lifespan definitely wasn't. This was with daily driving (40 miles round trip, freeway, some stop and go) and a couple of trips across the Rockies and one short run through Slickrock in Moab. The rotors also developed a shimmy about 1k ago, so I'm pretty sure they warped. OEM lasted far, far longer.

Open to other ideas, as I'm going to have to put the thing up on jack stands and do the brakes in the next month, looks like. Thinking about going plain-jane solid rotors and normal pads from AutoZone if the expensive ones are going to be this fickle.

Wow, that's really weird. How do you go through the pads and rotors in 12K miles?!? I did more than double that mileage and both (pads and rotors) were still fine. Either you got a bad batch, something was wrong or you drive extremely aggressively and overuse your brakes.

How many miles did you get from the OE set?

shrinkboy · Nov 11, 2015

Around 30k on the OEM set, and I've tried to drive so that I'm coasting to slow down on the freeway, not gas/brake/gas/brake. Granted, this is Colorado random brake test land here, and there's been construction for over a year on the stretch I drive... probably should have done the green pads,. regardless.
Not sure that I could have babied it much more, but then again, I drove the same way on the EBCs that I did on the OEMs, and I'd hoped that they'd have been closer in terms of wear than this.

RBA · Nov 11, 2015

Hmm...30K on the OEM set is good. Perhaps buy the OEM set from Atlantic British. Still cheaper than dealer and you know what you're getting. Plus the OEM pads seem to kick up much less brake dust then EBC.

From my experience the higher end EBC rotors worked well and I prefer the orange pads over the yellow. Although lots of people use the green and are very happy. The green are super inexpensive (about 1/4 the cost of Orange).

bgsntth · Nov 11, 2015

I had the EBC Sport Rotors on my 2003 GX470, and they made an insane racket. Hence, I put EBC Ultima Rotors on our 2008 FFRR, which now have close to 40K miles on them with their second set of truck-spec Greens.

I stay away from EBC race-level pads, as I went through a set of Reds in two 30 minute sessions at Thunderhill in my old WRX wagon. They do not fade, as the pad material does not stick around long enough to glaze over.

My next pads will be Hawk LTZ's, which were fabulous on my 2008 RRS S\C. Probably combine with the Ultima rotors.

jaguardoc504 · Nov 11, 2015

I have the EBC Green Box pads, and sports rotors. The rotors are noisy, but the stopping power is improved.
I have used the Yellow Box before, and had some significant wear issues.
The Grenn Box are more comparable to OEM with improvement for stopping power, and reduction of dust.
I am 25K in on the front and rear, and will probably have to do the fronts again next summer (+10K).
I only got 15K out of the stock brakes. So the EBC's increases brake life by over two years.

SHS14 · Oct 11, 2016

Back near the beginning of this thread, a procedure was given for putting the EPB into service mode. Is that still a valid procedure?

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Quijote · Oct 17, 2016

SHS14 said:
Back near the beginning of this thread, a procedure was given for putting the EPB into service mode. Is that still a valid procedure?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd like to know as well.

At ~23k miles, it's time to replace at least the rear pads. I will probably do all pads (F&R).

A couple of questions:

1) What are the new and min rotor thicknesses (F&R)? I wanna know if I should replace disks as well.

2) Given the spotty feedback here on EBC, should I just go OEM on the pads and rotors?

Thanks!

SHS14 · Oct 18, 2016

I've tried different combos but my LR4 never responded to that procedure. I just bought the iidtool because one of its features is putting the EPB in mounting mode.

Service limit for the rear discs is 18 mm. Pad minimum thickness in the rear is 3 mm. I don't have the front specs on me right now, but front tolerances are similar from memory. I'm at 38k miles and from visual inspection, my rear pads are near or below 3 mm. I'm changing everything in the rear with my mileage because I know my rotors are not going to make it another 38k. My front hardware has more life left so leaving those in place for now. Checking again in 2k miles since I have slightly heavier and taller wheels/tires fitted now.

I had the same observation on the EBC route so I went OEM from AB.

Just picked up EBC pads and rotors

shrinkboy

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Izzyandsue

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shrinkboy

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