My Big Fat Costco fail

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Davidinseattle

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Here's the skinny on Costco Guys -- it's my fault!

Got Michelins put on 2 years ago; and it was taking a very long time -- I asked what's going on; guy said man really hard getting the grease off!

LR says Anti Seize on the studs Costco says no. I pushed and pushed. Finally Costco agreed to pay my LR dealer to put the anti seize back on.

And, they've also paid LR to do any tire serving that's been required.

Also, telling me don't bring your LR back.

So even if the MFG says use Anti Seize, Costco won't -- they should tell you a head of time that we don't do anti seize even if MFG says yes.

To me Aluminum wheels on steel drums and studs means Anti Seize!


jrb1,

read my OP, that was not the problem.
 

Davidinseattle

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I just get tires shipped from TireRack direct to my mechanic.

His mounting fees are comparable (if it's a little more, it's worth it). He won't f*ck up the car, scratch my wheels, inflate to the wrong pressure, use old TPMS sensors, etc. etc. It's so worth it. Plus he will then rotate them free for life since he did the install. And do a underbody inspection at the same time to give me an honest evaluation of brakes and suspension that he'd be the one to maintain anyway,.

It's a no brainer, just find whatever tires you want online these days and ship them to someone you trust.

I no longer take my vehicles to any of the discount Tire places. They are awful. The staff is usually techs who either don't give a sh*t or are right out of trade school. Your appointment runs long, they scratch wheels, they have f*cked up so many things in the past for me that it isn't worth the frustration in hopes that you have a good experience (once in a while you do).


todd,

well, the Discount Tire in Bellevue did a great job. I talked to the tech while he was doing the change. I asked him about tire pressure, he knew that the fronts and backs ran different pressure. He even did one tire at a time and didn't mix them up (front right went back on front right, etc) not that it mattered, but he was meticulous about it. The lift they used had the fold up tabs at the lift points show in the lift point book I saw at Costco (which Costco did not have and was the original topic of post).

All that said, I read the pages of the book of lift points at Costco. It clearly showed the metal tabs extending to the LR4 lift points. It had my model (2015) included. So, I don't know. Maybe the book they are using is meant to be overly cautious? Who knows.

At any rate, there were three other LRs at this Discount Tire and the Land Rover Dealer is just a few blocks away. At least at this store, they know what they are doing.
 

toddjb122

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Great to hear @Davidinseattle

All the NTBs, Discount tires, Pep Boys, etc. around me are sh*t shows. :)

There is one small franchise place I like, which I have to go to because my mechanic does not have an alignment machine. All the guys in there speak English and look like they have worked there for many years. They're friendly, do it when promised, and I never find a line of customers shouting at the management like I did the last time I went to a Pep Boys or an NTB.
 

The Rover

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There’s no magic lift. All Land Rover owners should know that before you lift the vehicle, you must lock the suspension in its lowest setting. Look at the raising/lowering button and you’ll see a lock pictograph beneath or beside the low setting. Make sure it’s locked by pressing and holding the switch until the lock pic lights up at the switch and you’re all set.

The lift excuse is a rouse because Kirkland corporate got flooded with complaints concerning malfunctioning and broken suspensions. Fear not. Lock the suspension and ford ahead.
 

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I use a smaller indy tire shop as well that installs the lug nuts with a torque wrench. You don't want an air gun twisting the tin caps on the lug nuts.
Air gun twisting Caps? Not sure this is possible if you are using the correct sockets..
 

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There’s no magic lift. All Land Rover owners should know that before you lift the vehicle, you must lock the suspension in its lowest setting. Look at the raising/lowering button and you’ll see a lock pictograph beneath or beside the low setting. Make sure it’s locked by pressing and holding the switch until the lock pic lights up at the switch and you’re all set.

The lift excuse is a rouse because Kirkland corporate got flooded with complaints concerning malfunctioning and broken suspensions. Fear not. Lock the suspension and ford ahead.
I thought that you locked it in it's highest position because it would shut off the valve that would let any air escape. Same thing if you want to test for a leak over night in the air suspension.
 

gsxr

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I thought that you locked it in it's highest position because it would shut off the valve that would let any air escape. Same thing if you want to test for a leak over night in the air suspension.
According to my 2010 LR4 owner's manual, the suspension should be locked in the highest / off-road position before jacking any wheel off the ground.
 

dlonesty

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I had my Bridgestone Dueller Alenza done at Costco 4th Ave S. Done and been having rotations done there as well. No prob! I have a 2011 LR4HSE Lux without mods.
 

toddjb122

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Can anyone confirm if you really need to lock the suspension in low or high before a lift? I have NEVER seen a mechanic do this to my LR3 or LR4. As stated above, I heard it was a Discovery issue and I have heard that it's no longer required.

What I suspect is that if you are jacking it to change a single tire, it would be beneficial to lock it, which is why this may be in the manual. In that way you don't have the suspension compensating for the raising you are doing to one tire, and potentially changing the balance point, and risking the vehicle falling off the jack. So, it may be more of a liability issue in that sense (thus the recommendation) than a need for damaging the air shocks.
 

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Can anyone confirm if you really need to lock the suspension in low or high before a lift? I have NEVER seen a mechanic do this to my LR3 or LR4. As stated above, I heard it was a Discovery issue and I have heard that it's no longer required.

What I suspect is that if you are jacking it to change a single tire, it would be beneficial to lock it, which is why this may be in the manual. In that way you don't have the suspension compensating for the raising you are doing to one tire, and potentially changing the balance point, and risking the vehicle falling off the jack. So, it may be more of a liability issue in that sense (thus the recommendation) than a need for damaging the air shocks.
Not sure. the manual defiantly says in the High Position. Try it and see. get back to us on what happens. :)
 

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