Suspension Problem, I haven't one! LR3

roverca said:

Well I got the call from the mechanic that the air compressor is shot and it will be $1300. And most likely one of the struts has a leak and won't know that until it gets a new compressor. This all sounds really expensive, money I don't have right now. maybe ditch the air suspension when I get paid next? Anybody done that?

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roverca said:

Hmm, I do not. Do you recommend one? I was thinking about getting one anyhow because I have Johnson Rods so I can fit LT275/65/18 BFG KO2's. I wanted to be able to override the computer and put it in "access height" on the freeway or highway for longer trips for a high speed ride.

Sometimes on longer trips after an hour the suspension fault comes on in orange but will clear after restarting the car.

In the mean time I may just take it to the shop to have the mechanic clear it. I'll start there. Was hoping it could be a fuse or something super easy but that was just wish full thinking.

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jwest said:

That Johnson guy is simply an asshole. Use of the dumb rods all the time causes the compressor to work at least 50% more time. It's basically a ******** approach.

Guess what else, the rods do not allow you to fit that tire. Nor do they keep any of the problems from occurring if you lose air or are in full articulation. (Yes, it's possible I think he's an ******.)

I've been running 275/65-18 bfg and slightly larger for years now. The rods are 100% irrelevant. What allows the tires to truly functionally "fit" are the modifications to the body, frame, plastic fender liner, and rear hvac lines relocation.

So, there are many many youtube videos on strut replacement and air compressor swaps. The AMK is newer and just requires a dealer to reflash the computers I think. It's also a little smaller an easier to handle. The older Hitachi is still available but it's more $ and I would guess the AMK is better in some way.

https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LR078650

The coli conversion will not make the tires fit any better either. You have to do the mods or reduce tire size. No magical way around it.

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roverca said:

I have those same tires and it does rub when I turn right all the way with the rods so I know what you mean. With those mods did you have to do any kind of lift?

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jwest said:

As stated, no lift is needed, ZERO, so no, I did not use any type of "lift".

The only thing I can support is using the strut spacers which allows the vehicle to ride at +50mm but while also keeping the air struts at exactly 0+/- neutral point. This allows the suspension to respond equally to bumps and dips but it also keeps the compressor at it's normal factory work load. Doing this however does not help with tire size during functional use. It mainly provides emergency tire clearance with the bump stops lower.

The mods are annoying to do, but they are not inherently complicated. Without them, a 32" rear tire under flex will grind into the fender liner where the body metal standing seam is behind that bulge in the plastic. Up front the frame horns are the biggest issue but also maybe the factory bumper edge.

After those were all done, 32" tires fit fine with room to spare.

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Houm_WA said:

Get a GAP tool and you won't need the stinkin' rods!

I don't think you'd need an alignment either. I switch back and forth all the time...on separate rims.

Your tires skid??? Does your ABS not kick in?

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