For those of you thinking about the upcoming winter...

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manoftaste

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You can put them on and take them off at home and tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque which nobody seems to do.

Totally agree.

For my MY16, the handbook dictates 98 lb.ft. Experienced local tire shop wants to torque to 105 lb.ft to make up for the extension lever (or whatever its called). The dealership wants to do 110 lb.ft.

Asked the dealership shop foreman as to why 110 lb.ft vs handbook' 98 lb.ft, reply was that 110 lb.ft was to make sure if the vehicle were to go off roading. Asked why this info wasn't mentioned in the handbook, reply was that there were many things not mentioned in the handbook :)

Not sure who to trust given the history and my personal experience with the level of knowledge, and the level of care I might add, at the dealerships in general. He could very well be mentioning the torque value for the D5 without even realizing it as I have found in the past wrong values for different things being cited by the service personnel at various dealerships.

And to add insult, I have found wrong values/diagrams/typos, and some leftovers from the past model years, in my '16 handbook. So who knows if even this official value of 98 lb.ft is totally correct :)
 

gsxr

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Screen shot attached from the FSM which shows 140Nm / 103 lb-ft... do other manuals show something different? Now I wanna check the owner's manual in my 2010.

o_O

torques.jpg
 

ktm525

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You are splitting hairs between 95-105 ft lbs (I do 105 ft lbs). Most tire torque wrenches will be +-5 ft pounds easy. The important thing is to not put them at 50 or have some idiot in a garage hammer them on with an impact to 200 ft lbs.
 

ktm525

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You are splitting hairs between 95-105 ft lbs (I do 105 ft lbs). Most tire torque wrenches will be +-5 ft pounds easy. The important thing is to not put them at 50 or have some idiot in a garage hammer them on with an impact to 200 ft lbs.


We have had snow three times already though none sticking completely. Mountains are fully white.
 

PaulLR3

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You are splitting hairs between 95-105 ft lbs (I do 105 ft lbs). Most tire torque wrenches will be +-5 ft pounds easy. The important thing is to not put them at 50 or have some idiot in a garage hammer them on with an impact to 200 ft lbs.

Exactly...you can't tell the difference between 98 & 110 ft pounds. Anywhere in that range will be fine. It's the 200 ft pound impact air gun that will be a nightmare if you get a flat tire.

And as noted above, I already replaced 3 lug nuts with twisted caps from either too much torque or someone using a close-to 22 mm english socket.
 

DirtyHal

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I'm on the fence about what to do for this winter. For my work I am currently commuting back and forth across WA from Spokane to Seattle Area for work weekly. I was thinking about getting the studless nokians but will that drive be too much road time for them? On the weekends I am at the ski resort every weekend so do I need a good winter tire. On my previous vehicle I used the Nokian Rotiiva A/T tires year round I found them to be excellent in the snow, do the WRG3's offer similar performance? If so I'll just use those.
 

ktm525

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That is quite a commute! How bad is the pass and high areas west of Spokane?

With that amount of pavement I would be tempted to use a WR or Rotiiva or even a Michelin Defender M/S. That commute is piling miles on your LR4.
 

pceresia

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I have both all season tires as well as snow tires on my 2016 LR4 which I switch depending on the season. Last year we went to Key West for the Winter and I left the all season tires on. This year I was thinking of putting the snow tires on in late October or early November and leaving them on for the trip to Florida. An internet search suggests that snow tires in warm weather may see some increased wear but we don't put a lot of miles on the vehicle in any give year, and I suspect the vehicle will get traded in before the two sets of tires wear out. Any thoughts on my logic?
 

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