Diy timing chain
- Thread starter djkaosone
- Start date
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Ric in Richmond
Active Member
Replace the crossover pipe as well while you are in there.....it will be next to go bad!!!
The fuel rail sits on top of the top fed fuel injectors. It is firmly stuck on it and takes a lot of force to remove it. The scissor jack trick removes it really easy and takes less than 3 minutes to setup and remove.
I've previously replaced it and other things less than 6 months ago like the thermostat, water pump and the plastic piece behind it, spark plugs, ignition coils, belts, alternator, cooling pipes, map sensor, maf sensor, and pretty much everything around the engine. This would be the first major project.
Another update.
I really didn't do much, but I was able to remove the all the injectors. If you offroad in sand like Occotillo Wells sand dunes or the Mojave desert, you're in for a treat when removing the injectors. In the injector cylinders there's enough of a gap to keep some souvenir sand from your trip(s).
I used a vacuum with a straw as a fitting to suck out as much sand around the cylinders before pulling the injector(s). Even when you think you got all of it and pull the injector out there's still a ton of sand in there. The vacuum i used was a rigid 6.0hp 14 gallon shopvac with the car detailer 1.5 inch hose and flat angled attachment. Then i used a single plastic drinking straw, flexible enough to squeeze between the injector and cylinder. I would gently cover the hose attachment and straw gap with my finger to close the gap and increase suction. It works fairly well.
I stopped here as cleaning the remaining sand off is tedious and I have to use my endoscope to make sure i get all the sand out of the piston chambers or each cylinder.
Check out injector 3 on bank 1 versus injector 1 on the right. Injector 1 took a while to clean and I have 8 of them...
Almost forgot to mention that you have to remove both battery compartments to get to the rear injectors on both bank 1 and 2. Remove both batteries, well I have 2. Each side has 3x 13mm nuts and 4x clips holding the sidewalls. Pop it all out like a puzzle piece and you'll have all the clearance for the tool to pop it out. Just make sure the tool is securely attached to the injector before trying to reverse hammering it out. When it's secure it'll take 5-6 good strikes. I had 20+ hammers on one that wasn't fully seated and secure, which hammers it out at an angle causing unnecessary added friction.
I really didn't do much, but I was able to remove the all the injectors. If you offroad in sand like Occotillo Wells sand dunes or the Mojave desert, you're in for a treat when removing the injectors. In the injector cylinders there's enough of a gap to keep some souvenir sand from your trip(s).
I used a vacuum with a straw as a fitting to suck out as much sand around the cylinders before pulling the injector(s). Even when you think you got all of it and pull the injector out there's still a ton of sand in there. The vacuum i used was a rigid 6.0hp 14 gallon shopvac with the car detailer 1.5 inch hose and flat angled attachment. Then i used a single plastic drinking straw, flexible enough to squeeze between the injector and cylinder. I would gently cover the hose attachment and straw gap with my finger to close the gap and increase suction. It works fairly well.
I stopped here as cleaning the remaining sand off is tedious and I have to use my endoscope to make sure i get all the sand out of the piston chambers or each cylinder.
Check out injector 3 on bank 1 versus injector 1 on the right. Injector 1 took a while to clean and I have 8 of them...
Almost forgot to mention that you have to remove both battery compartments to get to the rear injectors on both bank 1 and 2. Remove both batteries, well I have 2. Each side has 3x 13mm nuts and 4x clips holding the sidewalls. Pop it all out like a puzzle piece and you'll have all the clearance for the tool to pop it out. Just make sure the tool is securely attached to the injector before trying to reverse hammering it out. When it's secure it'll take 5-6 good strikes. I had 20+ hammers on one that wasn't fully seated and secure, which hammers it out at an angle causing unnecessary added friction.
Here's another update.
I was able to remove the LH and RH valve covers. Each side have about 5x 10mm bolts at the top, 4x 10mm in the middle, 4x 10mm at the bottom, and 2x 10mm in the back. The ones in the back of the LH (looking from inside) are a pain to get to and was able to remove the higher one with a 1/4 socket wrench with a 10mm deep socket with little space to ratchet it out. The one year's the bottom had to be ratcheted out from the back side with a normal 1/4 10mm socket. Anyhow, removing the valve cover is a little tricky. Start from the front and slowly pry with a big flathead. When prying, start gently from the front bolt and gently slide the flathead under the rubber gasket to the rear. Then rock the valve gently side to side and it'll eventually come off. Once it's off use a head gasket scraper to clean off the contact surface and wipe off all the sand and grime for a clean surface.
The LH and RH timing chain covers can come off with all the sensors in place. There are 5x t30 bolts holding it in place. Then gently pull from the middle towards the front to pop it off. The copper silicone will easily give way. Then scrape off the remaining silicone and clean the surface.
As part of the timing chain tool kit, you'll eventually need to remove the starter to fit the locking tool to stop the motor or crank from turning. You can do this without removing the skid plate and/or plastic side shields on the RH side. A ratchet and extension will do. I haven't done it yet, but I think it'll be 2x 13mm. I stopped there since I was trying to figure out where to line up the timing chain markings before I removed and installed the starter locking plate.
Also noticed that if you have a 12.9 marking on your crank bolt its reversed tread (clockwise to remove) and 10.8 marking is a normal bolt (counter clockwise to remove).
I was able to remove the LH and RH valve covers. Each side have about 5x 10mm bolts at the top, 4x 10mm in the middle, 4x 10mm at the bottom, and 2x 10mm in the back. The ones in the back of the LH (looking from inside) are a pain to get to and was able to remove the higher one with a 1/4 socket wrench with a 10mm deep socket with little space to ratchet it out. The one year's the bottom had to be ratcheted out from the back side with a normal 1/4 10mm socket. Anyhow, removing the valve cover is a little tricky. Start from the front and slowly pry with a big flathead. When prying, start gently from the front bolt and gently slide the flathead under the rubber gasket to the rear. Then rock the valve gently side to side and it'll eventually come off. Once it's off use a head gasket scraper to clean off the contact surface and wipe off all the sand and grime for a clean surface.
The LH and RH timing chain covers can come off with all the sensors in place. There are 5x t30 bolts holding it in place. Then gently pull from the middle towards the front to pop it off. The copper silicone will easily give way. Then scrape off the remaining silicone and clean the surface.
As part of the timing chain tool kit, you'll eventually need to remove the starter to fit the locking tool to stop the motor or crank from turning. You can do this without removing the skid plate and/or plastic side shields on the RH side. A ratchet and extension will do. I haven't done it yet, but I think it'll be 2x 13mm. I stopped there since I was trying to figure out where to line up the timing chain markings before I removed and installed the starter locking plate.
Also noticed that if you have a 12.9 marking on your crank bolt its reversed tread (clockwise to remove) and 10.8 marking is a normal bolt (counter clockwise to remove).
mklinker
Full Access Member
Interested in renting it out?
As I'm waiting for my just ordered Astro nano impact wrench to be delivered for removing the crank bolt, I've been googling the crap out things. I have a lot of "need to do things" while I'm changing the timing chain stuff. The route I'm taking is a long and extensive one. I have to remove everything to get to service those items. While googling, I ran into a few that were able to change out the timing chain guides without removing the valve covers, fuel rails, injectors, ignition coils engine harness, intake manifold, water pump, and water crossover pipe. That'll save you hours and possibly days.
I'm still cleaning up sand out of my cylinders. It's actually done, but you get what I'm saying. All you really need to do to change out just the guides and tensioner is to remove the thermostat, belts, timing covers, crank pulley, and crankshaft cover to get to it. To remove the timing cover just pull the valve cover up 3mm and pull off the cover. There's a few things to do to make sure the chain doesn't jump and then you can remove the tensioner and guides.
Well my journey isn't done yet, but there a lot to do to make it run like it used to.
I'm still cleaning up sand out of my cylinders. It's actually done, but you get what I'm saying. All you really need to do to change out just the guides and tensioner is to remove the thermostat, belts, timing covers, crank pulley, and crankshaft cover to get to it. To remove the timing cover just pull the valve cover up 3mm and pull off the cover. There's a few things to do to make sure the chain doesn't jump and then you can remove the tensioner and guides.
Well my journey isn't done yet, but there a lot to do to make it run like it used to.
Yes for sure!
