Just as some info for those with the non-arb bumpers, the ARB (summit bar in my case) have some hefty mounts, but they have crush zones built in so that if you hit something the crush zone can compress and reduce the impulse rate to the rest of the vehicle... thus reducing the chance that you pop your air bags. Having a bar without this.. solid mount bumper, could pop your airbags a bit more easily.
Here are the mounts against the frame and you can see the crush area. On this bumper it only has a single fold, but on others I have seen 3 or more folds. I assume this means less squish, less resistance to a crash too. It's super thick steel though.. so it must require a lot of force to move.
I kind of assume that you could pull really ******* them, with side loads or anything and not move them at all, but it is something to consider. Even the older ARB bumpers that had loops on the front.. however, those loops were for hi-lift points, not recovery.
The L319 has a good rated point right in the middle on the frame, and while it is low, it is probably the best thing to use.
On the same topic. I have noticed MANY installs that people don't drill and install the pin bolts. The normal bolts that mount the bumper are in slots to allow for adjustment. If you don't drill the holes and put the large fixing bolts in, the bumper can move if you hit something.. and while that may reduce the chance of crushing the cans, it will probably cause the bumper to push back into your lights/grill, etc.
I assume people skip that step because it requires marking the spots and pulling the bumper back off to drill them out.. or like I did, find crazy right angle drill tools and spend way too much time drilling them out. I was so tired by that point that I didn't really paint/seal the holes all that well and I probably have rust in there now.. I need to check that sometime.
Here is my crazy drill setup.