255/55-19 ATTURO TRAIL BLADE MT TYRES

Fozzy325 said:

Total BS? That’s rude and inaccurate. Did you read my post where I said it came with the vehicle when I traded in.
Oh wait no. You need to be narcissistic.
So please inform the world what it costs to buy 5 composite wheels x 5 plus x 5 KO2 tyres, an IIDtool.
33inch wheels equates to 325/60r18 or 295/65r18
To do this you will now need to hack into the body work.

Omg you are out their with hummer drivers.

So for me to go out last weekend you are suggesting that I am to go into debt

You are a fool my friend


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Nice. re-read my post. Sure hope you'll never try to fit a 325 or 295 width on an lr4.

Zero body hacking....try reading before attacking someone who's trying to help you. 32" does require flattening a metal flange....big deal. You cannot see any of the small mods that all of us have done to use 32+ tires.

Those compo wheels are $$$, I know, it sucks, nobody told you to buy a vehicle that is super annoying to modify. A Hummer would be easier though LOL, or a Land Cruiser.

jwest said:

Total BS. and I don't mean you are BS or what you did, just that the idea of needing rods is BS.

Click to expand...

lol

Maybe I was wrong....

Fozzy325 said:

For when I go 4x4 rock climbing and wading through 3 foot snow to get the extra height and they came with the vehicle as part of the deal.

Like this weekend, last weekend, and for almost every weekend since November.

Yes I did destroy 1 tyre so far which cost 300 to replace but I think the BFG wouldn’t have survived it either.
Slid down an embankment into jagged rock which punctured and sliced my front tyre at a 45 degree to the wheel.
Ice on 20% degree unmanaged winter road. DHC tried to keep it under 2kmh but nope.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

I missed that the rods came w the lr. But you're wasting every dollar on an alignment when you don't need rods on 19" wheels. Don't be a tool. You aren't driving down 36" deep snow lanes either. A snow bank or brief super dry fresh pow maybe. And to go where? To where it becomes 40" where then you are just stuck with maxtrax? Go have fun but don't make up reasons that don't exist.

You're talking about saving money while also saying you'll buy tires to have until saved up for other plan? How many years do you expect these new, but not really what you want, tires to last? If you don't get their full mileage out of them, you have then simple wasted more $. Roughly $1400 as you put it. Get a winter tread you'll keep for several seasons. Ditch rods and the wasted alignment, sell the rods! Roll like that for a while - it can do so much in stock form. No need for extra stuff not honestly needed that often.

My first Disco 1 I ran fully stock for a few years through all sorts of **** on Michelin xpc 4x4 tires. When the tires fully wore out, and I used my shovel many times to get unstuck, I only then went to bfg mt on that vehicle.

A shovel can get you further than fancy rods

jwest said:

I missed that the rods came w the lr. But you're wasting every dollar on an alignment when you don't need rods on 19" wheels. Don't be a tool. You aren't driving down 36" deep snow lanes either. A snow bank or brief super dry fresh pow maybe. And to go where? To where it becomes 40" where then you are just stuck with maxtrax? Go have fun but don't make up reasons that don't exist.

You're talking about saving money while also saying you'll buy tires to have until saved up for other plan? How many years do you expect these new, but not really what you want, tires to last? If you don't get their full mileage out of them, you have then simple wasted more $. Roughly $1400 as you put it. Get a winter tread you'll keep for several seasons. Ditch rods and the wasted alignment, sell the rods! Roll like that for a while - it can do so much in stock form. No need for extra stuff not honestly needed that often.

My first Disco 1 I ran fully stock for a few years through all sorts of **** on Michelin xpc 4x4 tires. When the tires fully wore out, and I used my shovel many times to get unstuck, I only then went to bfg mt on that vehicle.


A shovel can get you further than fancy rods

Click to expand...

Since picking the vehicle up in Nov2018 I have put almost 15k on the clock. I would say that 80% of these kilometres were on non paved roads, 70% of that are on gravel winter managed roads and 30% is on trails, 4x4 tracks, non winter managed roads. This the benefit of living 150meters from work. I don’t need to travel.

I have dug myself out of being stuck at least twice a trip. My traction mats have almost lost all the teeth due to -30 temperatures we have been playing in.
I like pushing my vehicles to the limit.
If I could afford a defender or series iii I would get one. I have been a LR defender and s3 driver for almost 25 years. I never had to move away from the stock wheels, I would have ex military airforce FOD tyres and I used them on sheep trails in Wales and Cumbria.

2016 LR4s can not fit stock LR3 wheels 7.5jx18 EH2 53. The only stock LR4 18 inch wheel for the 3ltr SCV6 which may fit are the limited edition 8Jx18 EH2 53 early edition LR4s. But I can neither confirm or find these on any 2nd hand sites except one in the USA.
So to get an 18inch wheel that is known to fit are from two companies both coming to $2.2k with shipping. Then $350 per KO2 x 5 plus the fitting, balancing, and sensors.
To repeat my self. Other would be to get the LR3 front breaking system from the ball joint to the wheel. Cheaper but I am trying to validate the breaking power and warranty I still have on the vehicle.

I found some 8Jx18 ET 40 that look like they may fit but I need to test these and they do not have the bead of EH2. But again to test if they will fit the calliper difference and to see if the lugs will work is another issue, that cost is 50$ if they don’t fit.

Any suggestions of how to get into 18inch wheels with a 275/65r18 at an affordable price I am all ears.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

@jwest is trying to save you the time and hassle of re-learning the lessons that guys who have been running these trucks for 8 or more years have already learned.

Here would be my suggestion assuming you own a few tools and are willing to get your hands dirty.

1. Source a set of 18" LR3 wheels. I got my set of 5 used wheels for somewhere around $300.00. Check ebay, craigslist, etc. They were not hard to find when I was searching for them.

2. Buy a set of Motorsport Tech 1.25" wheel spacers. Mine were $200.00 back in 2013-2014. You might be able to get away with 1" spacers, but I can't confirm as I never ran them myself.

3. Buy a set of BFG K02 or Cooper STT Pro or similar LT load range E tires in 275/65R18, 265/70R18 or 265/65R18.

4. Check and possibly re-route the wiring harness in the drivers side wheel well.

5. Take an angle grinder with cutoff wheel or torch and remove the frame "horns" in both front wheel wells. I had a fab shop weld a patch over the resulting holes for $50.00 or less.

6. Remove both rear fender liners and pound the knife-edge looking body seam that you see flat.

7. Go to your favorite parts store and get some 5/8 ID heater hose and some hose clamps. In the passenger side rear wheel well, replace the rigid heater lines and route them so that they will not make contact with a tire.

8. Take an angle grinder and grind on the front brake caliper cooling fins as needed to clear your wheels.

9. If you are **** retentive about it like I was, take a heat gun and reshape your fender liners for additional clearance where you can.

10. Enjoy your additional sidewall height for somewhere around $550.00 plus the cost of whatever tire you selected.

You might find your rods help prevent some rubbing using the above methodology because with the method above, the limiting factor on clearance becomes the outside edge of the fender where the wheel arch flares are mounted. Raising the truck obviously puts more clearance between the wheel arch flare and the tire at that point.

I ran the above configuration without issue for better than 40,000 miles before I got my Compomotive wheels.

At the end of the day, the Compomotives are still a better, less kludgy solution.

double tap...

[QUOTE="Consider a rigid traction device that can also perform as a bridge like the waffleboards or other true ladders. Mine also function as a standing platform on the roof with no rack at all. Then they can also become under tire blocking for camping leveling.[/QUOTE]

@jwest

Would you be willing to post some pics, or give some details on how you did this?

i have been thinking about trying to configure something similar.

I have a ProSpeed rack, but essentially all I use it for at this point is a platform to put some lawn chairs on to watch my girls lacrosse games, or similar. Otherwise, it is largely useless and dead weight and extra height at this point.

Would really like to hear any details on what waffle boards, or bridging planks you found, and if they will support the weight of your truck if you actually need to use them for bridging or getting a tire up on a rock ledge or similar.

I have a couple of mats that I take on trips to difficult trails, but they are absolute beasts. They weigh over a hundred pounds combined, and would literally support a semi truck. They were made for decking on off-shore oil rigs, but found their way to me for about $15.00 many years ago.

If I could find an appropriate waffle board, or bridging ladder, my thought would be to take two or three of them, and just span them across the factory short roof rails and then secure them with a square nut inside the channel on the roof rails.

avslash said:

@jwest is trying to save you the time and hassle of re-learning the lessons that guys who have been running these trucks for 8 or more years have already learned.

Here would be my suggestion assuming you own a few tools and are willing to get your hands dirty.

1. Source a set of 18" LR3 wheels. I got my set of 5 used wheels for somewhere around $300.00. Check ebay, craigslist, etc. They were not hard to find when I was searching for them.

2. Buy a set of Motorsport Tech 1.25" wheel spacers. Mine were $200.00 back in 2013-2014. You might be able to get away with 1" spacers, but I can't confirm as I never ran them myself.

3. Buy a set of BFG K02 or Cooper STT Pro or similar LT load range E tires in 275/65R18, 265/70R18 or 265/65R18.

4. Check and possibly re-route the wiring harness in the drivers side wheel well.

5. Take an angle grinder with cutoff wheel or torch and remove the frame "horns" in both front wheel wells. I had a fab shop weld a patch over the resulting holes for $50.00 or less.

6. Remove both rear fender liners and pound the knife-edge looking body seam that you see flat.

7. Go to your favorite parts store and get some 5/8 ID heater hose and some hose clamps. In the passenger side rear wheel well, replace the rigid heater lines and route them so that they will not make contact with a tire.

8. Take an angle grinder and grind on the front brake caliper cooling fins as needed to clear your wheels.

9. If you are **** retentive about it like I was, take a heat gun and reshape your fender liners for additional clearance where you can.

10. Enjoy your additional sidewall height for somewhere around $550.00 plus the cost of whatever tire you selected.

You might find your rods help prevent some rubbing using the above methodology because with the method above, the limiting factor on clearance becomes the outside edge of the fender where the wheel arch flares are mounted. Raising the truck obviously puts more clearance between the wheel arch flare and the tire at that point.

I ran the above configuration without issue for better than 40,000 miles before I got my Compomotive wheels.

At the end of the day, the Compomotives are still a better, less kludgy solution.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I will surly look into this. I just don’t like the idea of bringing the Callipers.

Is it the offset from 53 to 44 that makes the comps fit?
I’m trying figure out what makes the Comps so much different than every other 18 inch wheel out their.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fozzy325 said:

Thanks. I will surly look into this. I just don’t like the idea of bringing the Callipers.

Is it the offset from 53 to 44 that makes the comps fit?
I’m trying figure out what makes the Comps so much different than every other 18 inch wheel out their.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Their wheels are cast to have more clearance. Very little of the equation is the offset or you could simply put a 10mm spacer and call it good with an lr3 wheel.

I think your phone made a typo - you should proofread "bringing calipers" ... assume you meant grinding ? Yeah, we all went to grind and stopped for a moment thinking, hmmm, I could really screw this up... Thus the compo wheels or the steel wheels out of Australia apparently fit as well. They just launched a usa website but i have not seen it. The steels are heavier but a lot cheaper.

avslash said:

[QUOTE="Consider a rigid traction device that can also perform as a bridge like the waffleboards or other true ladders. Mine also function as a standing platform on the roof with no rack at all. Then they can also become under tire blocking for camping leveling.

Click to expand...

@jwest

Would you be willing to post some pics, or give some details on how you did this?

i have been thinking about trying to configure something similar.

I have a ProSpeed rack, but essentially all I use it for at this point is a platform to put some lawn chairs on to watch my girls lacrosse games, or similar. Otherwise, it is largely useless and dead weight and extra height at this point.

Would really like to hear any details on what waffle boards, or bridging planks you found, and if they will support the weight of your truck if you actually need to use them for bridging or getting a tire up on a rock ledge or similar.

I have a couple of mats that I take on trips to difficult trails, but they are absolute beasts. They weigh over a hundred pounds combined, and would literally support a semi truck. They were made for decking on off-shore oil rigs, but found their way to me for about $15.00 many years ago.

If I could find an appropriate waffle board, or bridging ladder, my thought would be to take two or three of them, and just span them across the factory short roof rails and then secure them with a square nut inside the channel on the roof rails.[/QUOTE]

I assume by "how" you mean the roof mounting? You have to have the factory tracks. okoffroad carries the waffle boards in standard and HD. You have to get the HD. 48"x12"x2" Not super light but they are super useful in various ways.
Imagine how a Thule or Yakima "landing pad" sits on a track. They have a small bolt that threads into a little plate after you've dropped it into the track. Tightening snugs the pad into place. There are 2 per pad. This is where I got the idea:

I took aluminum flat strap, 1" x1/4" I think. Cut a piece roughly to 1.25x1" but similar to the yakima plate, just thicker obviously. Reason for 1/4" thick is the aluminum which won't rust and it's what I had. Steel would ruse into a mess. Stainless would be sweet but it's a little harder to fabricate and I didn't have any.

This was to be a prototype test, then it just kept working for 10 yrs LOL
So, before making the little drop-in plate, tap it to a thread you want to use from above the waffle board. I chose, again because I had things around, a threaded rod cut to length. Enough to thread into the plate but still be above the waffle after running through a hold-down bar (more luminum strap cut about 6") a split lock washer, and a wing nut.

Procedure to mount:
1-roughly set plates in tracks where you plan to center the waffle. Ideally you cannot get the plate in by simply dropping it there, you have to utilize the wide area to barely get it set inside the track. This way you know it cannot lift out, ever. Slide over to spot.
2-set waffle board CAREFULLY on roof, there is glass! VERY careful. I set it there enough to not flop off side of car, go around to other side, reach over, slide it over to overlap the side nearest me. This leaves roughly 2" overhang each side. Do not let it drop onto glass roof!
3-using the roughly 3.5-4" threaded rod, by hand locate the plate in the track, thread in by hand. (***I used stainless rod). A little dry lube can help. I thread it until the rod actually bottoms out in the track which keeps the plate right there with no way to wobble around.
4-hold-down strap you made from aluminum slips over rod (drilled out of course), locking washer (I used stainless split washer), stainless wing nut the largest scale you can find. Tighten by hand should be sufficient. If you use a tool, I'd be careful not to add more than a 1/4 turn as the plate is aluminum and this only needs to stay in place, not really do much work.

I used either M6 or maybe 5/16 but I don't recall. You'll need a tap.

I had thought as some point a cut down version of a bicycle hub quick release would be sweet and I may go to stainless track plate at some point too. This "test" has worked w no issues for 140,000 miles so far though

Two of these under a front wheel adds 4" blocking and on almost any surface or slope. You could have 4 and actually piggy back up huge ledges by setting the steep one to the top first, then the lower one into mid point of the steep one if the base edge is locked into the ground.

On the roof I stand on these all the time for photos but you have to be mindful of the flex in the middle and the glass just 1/4" below at the center.

You could, and I may do this sometime, add a spacer to the rail to set the waffle board higher. It would only take a1/4" or so to gain enough that most heavy people couldn't flex the center enough to even touch the glass. Mine have never touched. I weigh 170 but I also stand closer to the side 1/3 just to be safe and/or split my foot over two of them. I have two across and they are separated by about 4"