255/55-19 ATTURO TRAIL BLADE MT TYRES

cannot find my stupid photos

This thread ******* delivers.

It's always entertaining to see jwest educate you fools about serious off roading -- don't you dipshits know he's changed his own suspension bushings and put ******** BFG tires on for those monster off road adventures you only dream about? You'll need a tap, perhaps know how to cut some plate to be as awesome as he. If you don't have a tent on your roof already I don't even know why you're in this conversation.

You're welcome to ride ***** in my rock crawler any day, jwest - I promise you'll have fun going up some **** you would have never considered trying, and I hope you'll be condescending about what I should have done :beerchug:

Fozzy325 said:

Thanks. I will surly look into this. I just don’t like the idea of bringing the Callipers.

Is it the offset from 53 to 44 that makes the comps fit?
I’m trying figure out what makes the Comps so much different than every other 18 inch wheel out their.






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I honestly don't know.

I have read, anecdotally, that they are machined with less taper and a different offset than the factory wheels.

I can say, that all I Idid after I receiveed mine was to remove my spacers and install the wheels and they worked perfectly, although my truck did have the mods I listed above.

I suspect you would still need to heat gun the forward lower inside edge of the driver's wheel liner. There is a bulge there from the factory, and was a place I had to do some reshaping when I first went to 18's.

avslash said:

I honestly don't know.

I have read, anecdotally, that they are machined with less taper and a different offset than the factory wheels.

I can say, that all I Idid after I receiveed mine was to remove my spacers and install the wheels and they worked perfectly, although my truck did have the mods I listed above.

I suspect you would still need to heat gun the forward lower inside edge of the driver's wheel liner. There is a bulge there from the factory, and was a place I had to do some reshaping when I first went to 18's.

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I have an appointment on Saturday at a wheel shop to try on 3 types of 18 inches that are marked up as able to fit on LR4’s


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Fozzy325 said:

I have an appointment on Saturday at a wheel shop to try on 3 types of 18 inches that are marked up as able to fit on LR4’s


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Highly unlikely any of those are load rated to the heavy lr4. Usually 'cheap' becomes expensive at some point in time. You are trying to save, what, maybe a few hundred $? Unless it's the 18's you can find on this and other LR enthusiast sites, they will not fit and/or are not engineered for anything besides mall crawling.

Any wheel I have seen other than what is truly made specifically for the Land Rover has ridiculous lips, fake bead lock bolts, chrome edges, general bling and are literally garbage.

You want a badass wheel, look at Mudtech or get the Compomotives $220 usd or the Aussie steelies for $1025 usd: https://www.tuffantusa.com/

BrandonM7 said:

This thread ******* delivers.

It's always entertaining to see jwest educate you fools about serious off roading -- don't you dipshits know he's changed his own suspension bushings and put ******** BFG tires on for those monster off road adventures you only dream about? You'll need a tap, perhaps know how to cut some plate to be as awesome as he. If you don't have a tent on your roof already I don't even know why you're in this conversation.

You're welcome to ride ***** in my rock crawler any day, jwest - I promise you'll have fun going up some **** you would have never considered trying, and I hope you'll be condescending about what I should have done :beerchug:

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sarcastic POS LOL You're in Georgia? Where? I'm in NC right now. Do I need to meet you in North Georgia with my lr3 rolling it's winter MS2's ? What's your crawler?

jwest said:

@jwest

Would you be willing to post some pics, or give some details on how you did this?

i have been thinking about trying to configure something similar.

I have a ProSpeed rack, but essentially all I use it for at this point is a platform to put some lawn chairs on to watch my girls lacrosse games, or similar. Otherwise, it is largely useless and dead weight and extra height at this point.

Would really like to hear any details on what waffle boards, or bridging planks you found, and if they will support the weight of your truck if you actually need to use them for bridging or getting a tire up on a rock ledge or similar.

I have a couple of mats that I take on trips to difficult trails, but they are absolute beasts. They weigh over a hundred pounds combined, and would literally support a semi truck. They were made for decking on off-shore oil rigs, but found their way to me for about $15.00 many years ago.

If I could find an appropriate waffle board, or bridging ladder, my thought would be to take two or three of them, and just span them across the factory short roof rails and then secure them with a square nut inside the channel on the roof rails.

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I assume by "how" you mean the roof mounting? You have to have the factory tracks. okoffroad carries the waffle boards in standard and HD. You have to get the HD. 48"x12"x2" Not super light but they are super useful in various ways.
Imagine how a Thule or Yakima "landing pad" sits on a track. They have a small bolt that threads into a little plate after you've dropped it into the track. Tightening snugs the pad into place. There are 2 per pad. This is where I got the idea:

I took aluminum flat strap, 1" x1/4" I think. Cut a piece roughly to 1.25x1" but similar to the yakima plate, just thicker obviously. Reason for 1/4" thick is the aluminum which won't rust and it's what I had. Steel would ruse into a mess. Stainless would be sweet but it's a little harder to fabricate and I didn't have any.

This was to be a prototype test, then it just kept working for 10 yrs LOL
So, before making the little drop-in plate, tap it to a thread you want to use from above the waffle board. I chose, again because I had things around, a threaded rod cut to length. Enough to thread into the plate but still be above the waffle after running through a hold-down bar (more luminum strap cut about 6") a split lock washer, and a wing nut.

Procedure to mount:
1-roughly set plates in tracks where you plan to center the waffle. Ideally you cannot get the plate in by simply dropping it there, you have to utilize the wide area to barely get it set inside the track. This way you know it cannot lift out, ever. Slide over to spot.
2-set waffle board CAREFULLY on roof, there is glass! VERY careful. I set it there enough to not flop off side of car, go around to other side, reach over, slide it over to overlap the side nearest me. This leaves roughly 2" overhang each side. Do not let it drop onto glass roof!
3-using the roughly 3.5-4" threaded rod, by hand locate the plate in the track, thread in by hand. (***I used stainless rod). A little dry lube can help. I thread it until the rod actually bottoms out in the track which keeps the plate right there with no way to wobble around.
4-hold-down strap you made from aluminum slips over rod (drilled out of course), locking washer (I used stainless split washer), stainless wing nut the largest scale you can find. Tighten by hand should be sufficient. If you use a tool, I'd be careful not to add more than a 1/4 turn as the plate is aluminum and this only needs to stay in place, not really do much work.

I used either M6 or maybe 5/16 but I don't recall. You'll need a tap.

I had thought as some point a cut down version of a bicycle hub quick release would be sweet and I may go to stainless track plate at some point too. This "test" has worked w no issues for 140,000 miles so far though

Two of these under a front wheel adds 4" blocking and on almost any surface or slope. You could have 4 and actually piggy back up huge ledges by setting the steep one to the top first, then the lower one into mid point of the steep one if the base edge is locked into the ground.

On the roof I stand on these all the time for photos but you have to be mindful of the flex in the middle and the glass just 1/4" below at the center.

You could, and I may do this sometime, add a spacer to the rail to set the waffle board higher. It would only take a1/4" or so to gain enough that most heavy people couldn't flex the center enough to even touch the glass. Mine have never touched. I weigh 170 but I also stand closer to the side 1/3 just to be safe and/or split my foot over two of them. I have two across and they are separated by about 4"[/QUOTE]

@jwest

I have seen those boards at OK Offroad, Tracmat, and similar but have never been able to find a weight rating for them.

Have you actually used the HD version as a bridge? Did it support the weight and return to flat?

I think our trucks are in a similar weight range, so if you have done it without issue, I will order up a set and relegate the Prospeed rack to the attic.


I hear you on the glass roof. I hate having that thing up there. Surprised mine has lasted this long without being broken

Thanks.

jwest said:

Highly unlikely any of those are load rated to the heavy lr4. Usually 'cheap' becomes expensive at some point in time. You are trying to save, what, maybe a few hundred $? Unless it's the 18's you can find on this and other LR enthusiast sites, they will not fit and/or are not engineered for anything besides mall crawling.

Any wheel I have seen other than what is truly made specifically for the Land Rover has ridiculous lips, fake bead lock bolts, chrome edges, general bling and are literally garbage.

You want a badass wheel, look at Mudtech or get the Compomotives $220 usd or the Aussie steelies for $1025 usd: https://www.tuffantusa.com/

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This is the quote.
1281 pounds = $2186
5x KO2 @ $352 = $1760
5x sensors, seals, balancing, fitting= $250
Total = $4196 +GST = $4400
Will also need to get the camber changed as well. Advice from 25 year Land Rover mechanic


Or I buy 5x Atturo or duratec for 1400 fitted until I can save 5k




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Save 5K? Where are you getting that? Even using your own numbers, you'll have to do some of the same things regardless, and you're not even considering the cost of the Atturos.

1281 GBP is around $1,670 USD. EDIT: I guess you must be in Canada. Regardless, your logic is off.

The BF Goodrich tire is night and day better than the Atturos. That said, you can find cheaper tires than the BFG that will still be better than the stock size Atturos. Just so long as it's an E-rated tire, you're well ahead of the Atturos.

You can reuse your current sensors.

You'll have to do balancing no matter what tire you buy.

The camber thing is questionable. But you should get a lifetime alignment package from some shop regardless of any tire/wheel decision you make.

jwest said:

sarcastic POS LOL

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Always

You're in Georgia? Where? I'm in NC right now. Do I need to meet you in North Georgia with my lr3 rolling it's winter MS2's ? What's your crawler?

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I don't know if there's anything really worth a **** in N GA anymore. Do you? I haven't been up that way (other than on motorcycle rides) in forever. Back when the old Jeep group used to ride everything was always on the brink of closure, and none of it was much more than dirt roads anyway. Tellico was awesome, but since it shut down I don't know of anything that way.

We typically go into Alabama - there are a couple of parks that have great variety from entry level trails to serious rock bouncer type ****. Not sure when we'll get to go again, my group always seems to have something more important to do. I'm the tiny-tire guy in the group with 35" boggers, that's why I talk **** - like the little yappy puppy in the old cartoons. We have a lot of fun. It always nice to have at least a few members of the group on rockwell 2.5t and 49" iroks so you know you can't get totally stranded. Also none of us caring about the condition of our bodywork opens up a huge number of obstacles that people with good sense know to avoid. If I can ever get these turds to go riding again we'd love to have you - there are plenty of trails for all types of vehicles, plenty of seats for the stuff that gets a little harder, and plenty of entertainment having a beer and watching the nuts in $100k bouncers flip back down the really bonkers spots.