Diy timing chain

ktm525 said:

The chain may or may not have stretched. Could have been dealer padding the bill?

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Just saw this.

I don't think the dealer was padding the bill.

First, the dealer isn't going to use the shortcut method regardless. They're going to go by the book, which requires them to take everything apart and check if the chain has worn in any way. At that point, replacing the timing chain only adds the cost of the part, or probably only another $100 or less.

Second, I originally wanted to keep all the parts that they pulled out just for something cool to have, but they have to send them all off to Land Rover as part of the CPO program. I was able to see the parts (including the chain) but not keep them, and they got shipped off to Rover for their review, I guess.

They send parts solely so Land Rover can confirm the dealer is not ripping them off. If anyone thinks Land Rover corporate cares about a design flaw in an engine for a discontinued model then... Probably that person was laid off last week with all the job cuts lol.

Another update... I got most of it back together. I'm mocking up oil catch cans for both bank 1 and 2, and I found the perfect spot for them. If you know, both bank 1 and 2 have built in oil separators in the valve covers, but they suck. Oil still gets into the intake manifold and gums up everything.



Debating if I should mold plastic nylon tubing, similar to the oem air tubes, or just switch to silicone.

Since I already bought the oil catch cans, I'm sticking with it. If you're doing this piece and mounting them where I mounted mine, then you should get the ones that have the inlet and outlet 180* from each other. Mine are probably 30* and isn't ideal. I was going to mount them somewhere else, but that didn't work. So, take it from me...

Awesome! So glad to see you are taking the battle against blow-by and carbon buildup all the way! I also run AMSOIL because it is the lowest volatility (NOACK) oil I have been able find.

Rubber or silicone hose is probably fine for the catch cans since you have a naturally aspirated engine. If money is not a huge issue, I would recommend steel-braided lines with AN fittings. I used copper lines on my supercharged 3.6 liter V6 (Rubicon) because the vacuum would crush-down the lines under boost.

Location looks cool though it does help the keep the catch can(s) in the coolest area of the engine bay; it seems to allow the oil to condense better. I get that space is at a premium.

@djkaosone

Glad to see it coming together. Hope you get it done to enjoy some of the snow pelting Cali right now. Just got back from 3 days at Kirkwood/Heavenly and it was fantastic powder skiing.

Couple of questions I thought of.

Did you need to remove the crankshaft chain drive sprockets as it shows in the service manual?

Did you replace the accessory drive chain while you where in there? Any issues with that?

Any parts required that were not in the Atlantic British kit? I'm thinking at a minimum you would also need a new crankshaft bolt and at least one crankshaft friction washer.

Thanks again for all your time in this.

Looks good djkaosone. That's exactly what I want to do with the catch cans after I blast the valves. I was even considering a single can mounted to the firewall. But not sure if the added pipe length would have any detrimental impact.
I noticed the passenger side line had considerably more oil in it than the driver side.

I am going to try this "easy" method myself. Just wanted to let y'all know the least expensive parts I have been able to find are at Land Rover FT Myers http://parts.landroverftmyers.com for:

Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
LR051013 Tensioner Guide $60.82 2 $121.64
LR087162 Chain Tensioner $31.45 2 $62.90

Subtotal: $184.54
Estimated Shipping: $11.27
Total: $195.81

The YouTube poster "ChronCrew" advised the only other things required are zip-ties and high-temp RTV sealant; he recommended "International" for the RTV, though I have not found it yet?

doc5339 said:

he recommended "International" for the RTV, though I have not found it yet?

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I used copper rtv and it gives the highest temp range for silicone rtv. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-818...&qid=1547663563&sr=8-4&keywords=copper+gasket.

@djkaosone

Are you fully assembled and back up and running?

avslash said:

Are you fully assembled and back up and running?

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The million dollar question there. It's currently all put back together, but I'm having an issue starting it. Maybe someone can chime in here to help me.

I'm getting compression on ALL 8 cylinders and that tells me that the timing is lined up between the crankshaft, pistons, intake/exhaust valves, and timing chain. Bank 2 is perfect getting between 195 to 210 psi, while bank 1 is getting between 105 and 195 psi. Bank 1 spark plugs all have soot on them, the piston heads look grimy, the O2 sensor looks similar to the spark plugs. I've replaced the upstream O2 sensor, and still nothing. It cranks over with no problems, but it just doesn't start. Basically, I have air, fuel, and spark, and I'm thinking it has to do with some ecu not registering something. I'm pretty sure I plugged everything back in.

Besides changing the timing chain guides, guide tensioner, and walnut blasting the intake valves, the only other thing I really did was clean out the intake manifold with some engine degreaser and water to let dry over a week. I've replaced the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) the oem ohm readings were bouncing around from 80-190 ohms, while a new one sits at 35.9 ohms or something like that.

The next steps I think is to find out if I have oil pressure, fuel pressure, and??? I don't know. Maybe I should have done one thing at a time rather than combining everything all at once.