Diy timing chain

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djkaosone

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Looks like I had it on the wrong settings on the MM.

Test volts at 200m setting and my readings range from 05.4 to 64.9. Test ohms on 20k setting and I get 0.37.

What does yours read?
 

avslash

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@djkaosone

I don't appear to have the same settings you do on my multimeter. It looks like mine is an auto-ranging model. Sorry DM4400A.

For ohms, I am measuring . 383 Kohms regardless of the polarity of the probes.

For voltage I am measuring .04 away from any metal with flashed to a highest of . 27 when waving it over the metal grate on my kitchen cooktop.

Now that I've located at this, this thing is a snap to pull. Let me know if you need anything else.
 

djkaosone

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@avslash Thanks for checking! I ordered a new crank sensor since I was getting inconsistent readings for voltage. I really hope that does the job.
 

ktm525

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I cross my fingers it is the sensor. Seems weird though that it decided to crap the bed during your tensioner swap?
 

djkaosone

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I got the new crank position sensor in and that's not it. Ok, my last theory to this madness is that the crank was NOT exactly at the 6:00 position and I could be off by 1 tooth on the crank.

FYI, there is NO way to find TDC on cylinder 1 EXCEPT for removing spark plug 1 and sticking something (don't judge me, I used a kabob stick) in there to find the highest point of the piston. Then lock down the engine with the starter plate or the crankshaft position tool, why not do both. Once everything is out, you'll actually see how off everything is. The crankshaft chuck isn't perfectly at the 6:00 position, so you have to undo the starter locking plate and/or crankshaft position tool to set the correct position on the crankshaft at 6:00 with the camshafts at the correct positions on top all before you remove the chains.

Another FYI is the crank position tool is a little piece of metal with a squared end that fits into ANY open squares, so there's no fitting it into one square for EXACT alignment. Still an eyeball moment to find true 6:00 position on the crankshaft.

So I'll either try to rip it all out to find the exact timing, or see if there's something missing on bank 1. Bank 2 fires just fine and leads me to believe the timing is good.

FYI... cylinder 1 is the front left according to the LR4 workshop manual.

Screenshot 2019-03-08 08.58.27.png


This is what it looks like inside the crankshaft position sensor, where there's no exact 1 pin 1 hole for setting timing.


So I'm still at a loss with what it could be. I might have to trace wiring to find the gremlin.
 

djkaosone

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I think I found my issue. It's random that both went out at the same time, but my intake and exhaust camshaft position sensor (cps) plugs have worn out wiring where the wires meet the plugs. Bank 2 I get 12.XX on both leads of each connector on the cps, bank 1 there's a break in the wire getting inconsistent 12 readings and drops.

Does anyone know how to disassemble the plugs or remove the red center cap?

20190312_163352.jpg
 

avslash

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Possible help based on the Ford lineage? There is a connector in the video very similar, if not identical to the one you pictured.

 
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