Home setup/equipment for swapping wheels and undercarriage rinsing, etc.

Proper lug nut torque on LR4 is 103lb/ft

AxelR said:

Proper lug nut torque on LR4 is 103lb/ft

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From the manual...If it is 103 then I am under torquing.

1. With all wheels on the ground and the jack removed, fully tighten the wheel nuts. The wheel nuts must be tightened in sequence (see illustration) to the correct torque of 98 lb.ft (133 Nm).
   

Interesting all I've come across over 4 years of ownership is 140Nm. which converts to 103.2lb.ft.
With an assumed margin of error of 10Nm you're still good at 98lb.ft

Edit:
2016 LR4 manual does state 133Nm

AxelR said:

Interesting all I've come across over 4 years of ownership is 140Nm. which converts to 103.2lb.ft.
With an assumed margin of error of 10Nm you're still good at 98lb.ft

Edit:
2016 LR4 manual does state 133Nm

Click to expand...

Maybe it has changed from year to year and manual to manual? But yes, I pulled the above info from the 2016 manual which is the year I own.

Is everyone aware of the six year, unlimited mileage corrosion warranty? Has anyone taken advantage of it?

Pulled this snippet from the warranty:

"Should any part of the bodywork of the
vehicle be perforated by rust corrosion,
the panel(s) affected by the perforation
will be repaired or replaced by any Land
Rover Authorised Repairer, completely
free of charge, regardless of any change in vehicle ownership."

Posted this because of early talk of rust/corrosion damage on newer vehicles.

iSurfvilano said:

Is everyone aware of the six year, unlimited mileage corrosion warranty? Has anyone taken advantage of it?

Pulled this snippet from the warranty:

"Should any part of the bodywork of the
vehicle be perforated by rust corrosion,
the panel(s) affected by the perforation
will be repaired or replaced by any Land
Rover Authorised Repairer, completely
free of charge, regardless of any change in vehicle ownership."

Posted this because of early talk of rust/corrosion damage on newer vehicles.

Click to expand...

I have not had severe corrosion (that is, enough to "perforate" a part as described above), but I've seen a LOT of surface rust in the underside of my LR4. I hit it with rust reformer. Seems to works reasonably well.

Not to steal, but didn't want to start a new thread.

Got a decent 1/2 inch drive torque wrench recently from Checkline for swapping out wheels. But couldn't find any info in owners' handbook about the socket' sizing for the lug nuts.

What size socket would I need for my 2016 (19 inch rims)? And does the length of the socket matter as well?

Trip to Home Depot last night introduced me to two types: Normal or Impact. Any good reason for choosing the Impact one (for a few bucks more) even though I won't be using any impact gun for my home setup.

Thanks for your help.

The blackjack 3 ton jacks they sell at costco. To swap wheels I place the jack between the front and rear wheels and lift a whole side at once.

manoftaste said:

Not to steal, but didn't want to start a new thread.

Got a decent 1/2 inch drive torque wrench recently from Checkline for swapping out wheels. But couldn't find any info in owners' handbook about the socket' sizing for the lug nuts.

What size socket would I need for my 2016 (19 inch rims)? And does the length of the socket matter as well?

Trip to Home Depot last night introduced me to two types: Normal or Impact. Any good reason for choosing the Impact one (for a few bucks more) even though I won't be using any impact gun for my home setup.

Thanks for your help.

Click to expand...

Deep is best for lugs nuts for the reach into wheel area which allows your breaker bar to have better approach angle.

A. ratchets are not always intended for loosening although the torque on wheels is usually not too much. A "breaker bar" is the 'proper' tool intended to 'break' nuts loose, then ratchets for the quick on-off.

B. a nice home kit with uses for other things is to have a small cordless impact driver or at least drill with1/2" socket bit.

Procedure: lift wheel with other side on the ground so front wheel doesn't spin, breaker bar loosen each nut, driver spin them off. Always hand start the nuts going back on, always.

C. Torque wrench is only for torque. not for breaking them loose unless in a pinch like you're changing a flat and only have the torque wrench.

Size: lr3 are all 22mm 'technically' and even previous were various mm sizes but all of them had the stupid stainless steel caps which deform just a little such that the 22mm will barely go on anymore. Then at a tire shop, or any shop, they resort to a 7/8" which is tighter than 23mm but it deforms the cap more, then they are Fukkt.
Then you give up on the annoyance of using a 7/8 and replace them all with GorillaNuts black or chrome and never worry about it again, like I did.

LR4 might be 22mm, or not, but they are likely the cap style too so same idea applies.

Unless you are literally going to be super quick and not leave the area, have no kids or pets, you should also always just tuck a basic jack stand under the sill or slider any time a jack is holding up a vehicle.

ktm525 said:

The blackjack 3 ton jacks they sell at costco. To swap wheels I place the jack between the front and rear wheels and lift a whole side at once.

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Yup. or the big yellow ones sold at Harbor Freight are pretty well made too. Reach is 24" but still low enough entry profile for my low wagons.